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Also make sure the replacements are EZ install or whatever they call them, just so that they colapse enough to be installed without pulling the rocker boxes off, which is kinda the point. The Screaming Eagle Moly adjustable pushrods I bought for my Evo would not colapse enough to go in without pulling the rockers. That sucked. I ebay'ed them at a loss and bought some S&S EZ Install from the local aftermarket shop.
I was thinkingof have my push rods changed out when I do my CAM job. I dont know much about engines but have gotten two different suggestions on changing the rods. I thought I would post them here to get advice.
1. I guess the heads need to be removed and have the rods replaced.
2. Use bolt cutters to cut them and remove without taking the heads off.
Again I dont know much about engines and rods, I hear if you take the heads off, this could cause leaking if they are not put back on correctly. My bike has been dependable and I have had no problems with her and would like to keep her that way.
Any suggestions?
What cam are you thinking of using, what is your bike?
unless its nessary, your wasting money, a bolt in cam doesnt need adjustables, the cam base circle is the same as stock, untill you start milling the heads or use a smaller base circle cam, spend the money else where.............
I was looking at getting the Andrews 37, I wanted a little more tq in the low to mid range. I was going to do this when I replace my tensioners. (going from chain to gear drive).
So if I just go with a bolt in CAM Andrews 37, and go from chain to grear drive. I should not have to replace the rods, lifters and or anything else?
If you are going back with a bolt in cam you can reuse your stock push rods. No problem. However most of the top end has to be pulled down to reuse them. Whith the adjustable you can leave the top end alone. Makes doing a cam change by itself alot easer and FASTER! The rods are more money but worth the it in time and ease. IMO
I have a manual but will not tackle this one myself. I want a good wrench to do the work because I dont want to compromise the dependability of my bike.
I agree completely with JLOCKHART29, and what's more, if you are paying someone else to do the work, it is probably cheaper to just buy the adjustables instead of paying the labor rate to pull the top of the bike apart. And those gaskets you'd need aren't exactly free either. Now, if you had an oil leak or something to fix up there anyway, that'd be different.
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