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I'm pulling down the motor on my 2001 FLHT for a 10 over 95" rebuild. I just got the bike 3 months ago. I am the 3rd owner. The 1st owner had it brought out to 95" flat tops, no head work. The guy I bought it from was'nt sure about what it had for cams in it. I notice today as I pulled the heads and push rods, it had adjustable push rods which leads me to believe when it was punched out to 95, it may have had cams put in. Is there a way for me to I.D. the cams. Any stampings anywhere? I don't want to pull the support plate if it already has a decent setup in it.
My plans are decking the cylinders for an even deck height, ported heads with stock valves and springs, HQ-0034 chain cams, keep the CV40 and run my duels with Rush's. Just looking for a mild build with mid 9's on the compression.
Bean will be getting my heads next week, along with the jugs. How hard was it to map your DTT? Need a dyno tune or did it come with a base map, and tune off of that? My setup will be verry close to yours with the exception of carb.
Bean will be getting my heads next week, along with the jugs. How hard was it to map your DTT? Need a dyno tune or did it come with a base map, and tune off of that? My setup will be verry close to yours with the exception of carb.
The DTT is great............install a basemap and let it work on it's own. Apply the BLM's every 50 miles or so, and it's all running great. The only thing you still have to play with is the timing charts, but the AFR is always tuning itself.
Well, I like it when a puzzle comes together. I got the motor torn town today. Whoever did the 95" had the jugs decked because it measures even deck height. Strangly they installed a SE203 cam, which explains why the bike has a funny idle, and it's lazy down below 2500rpm, but hauls fairly well above 3500. The heads appear untouched. I never rev above 4500rpm and am looking for a torquer. I tour 2 up a lot with luggage, and can't have a cranky setup. I'll have Bean go through the heads, but my only question is whether I should stick with the 0034 cam or install an Andrews 26. I would like to keep compression no more than mid nines. Just looking for a nice agreeeable touring rig with stump pulling low end. I will stay with my rush's and CV40 for springtime, but may put on a Fatcat later in the summer.
The HQ-0034G's are all around stronger then the 26G's.............from bottom to top they just are a better cam.
I'm at 9.6-1 with the 34's......and it's performing great. 100/97 are pretty great numbers for a mild build, and I'm starting to lean towards leaving it alone this winter and not messing with it. I have 190 CCP, which is very good for this build.
Go with the 34's, Big Boyz Heads, and around 9.5-10-1 and you'll be very happy.
If you never rev above 4500 go with 21's or 26's. Most of the 0034's charts I have seen have been a little soft under 3000 rpms. I called Doug at HQ's and he told me he wanted to make a cam like the 21 for baggers that wanted great low end. He talked me out of 0034's for my bagger and told me that the 21's would be hard to beat.26's set up at 9.5 to 1 are pretty nice too. I think it is pretty common for 0 deck with stock/95 inch cylinders. I did 3 builds recently and all 3 were at 0 deck with no machining off the cylinders. Your DTT is going to be different than Maineultraclassics because you have a carb. It is easy to down load custom maps into the DTT for carbs and Doug at HQ will send you a custom map if you ask him. You do need the software and hardware to down load into the DTT module.
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