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Lucky at Lawrences in Coeur d'Alene did great stuff to a Shovel and an Evo for me a while back--not sure how he is on the new stuff...ask him, he's up front and my experiencewas 100% good.
Hello-
Optioned for Zippers 575 cams and will see how the bike runs out- weather sucks now so it may be a few months...
Question though, on the 96 stock heads, with the zippers 575 cam, does it do any good to have any head work done on these?
Not going to go there right now, as no more $$$ for mods, but just thinking that someone might have done similar work cam then had stock heads on their 96 cleaned up etc.
thanks.
I was concerned because everyone was telling me I had better change out the springs. I spoke with Pete Stewart at Zippers and he stated that they designed the cam as a bolt in cam and not to listen to anyone except the person that made the cam. He said that it will work absolutely fine with the stock springs. I started putting mine in today. I also spoke with him about possibly going to the 103 down the road. He stated that the 577's work best with flattops, but the 575 would work well if I used dish pistons in the 103. He said I could expect about 106 torque and mid 90's horsepower. They just came out with two different 103 kits. He called them the "sleeper" with just pistons, jugs, cams and gaskets or the "muscle" with heads thrown into the mix. I can also get just the piston and jug kit with exchanging mine for $462.95. This is a copy of the email that he sent prior to me calling him:
"The Red Shift Cams will work just fine with your stock springs in your stock
heads! There will be no problems. We designed this cam specifically to be a
bolt in cam and you will have a bike that responds very nicely with this cam
installed!
The 575TC Red Shift cam will work in a 103" conversion with a dished piston.
This will yield a static compression of about 8.6:1 with a stock head."
There is so much more to a cam than lift numbers. If your wanting power, read: torque, from 2000 to 4000 then you need to look at when the intake valve closes. I run an Andrews TW21G in a 95 inch motor. I have 9.3/1 compression so gas is not an issue. My heads are ported to match the cam and the valves are larger so it breaths well at smaller valve openings. At .500"tbey flow 246 cfm. The cam closes the intake at 30 degrees ABDC and it starts making usable torque at 1800 rpm! It has over 100 ft. lbs. of torque right where your wanting it. Don't let these big engine builders talk to you about peak numbers because that only works in drag racing and dyno sheet bragging rights! Here are some guide lines that I have learned over many years. Don't go over 9.5/1 compression because gas just sucks these days. If you port heads make sure they match the cam you want. A big hole and small cam will run like crapola! For most baggers, a cam that closes the intake at 36 degrees or less should be used. If your two up or pulling a trailer go to the less side. If your on a Road King that's stripped down, (lightened up), then 36 is a good number. This will put the torque where you ride 90 percent of the time. If you use SE cams don't go with the 203. The 204 is much better but still not as good as others. Personally if I were you I would opt for the TW21. The TW26's intake closes at 36 so if you want a little more mid to top end that would be good. Just to give you an idea, my 95 inch motor will pull from 1500 rpm in fifth gear all the way to 120 mph. I never downshift going up mountains even when pulling a trailer! You can go to: http://www.nightrider.com/cgi-bin/ff...?ff_config.txt to get a lot more cam information.
I have the 103 upgrade with SE 17071-03B heads, Zippers 577 cam, S&S rollers, SE camplate, Fueling oil pump, Zippers adj push rods, Don't have dyno numbers yet, But I did run it and it has lots more power especially 2000-5000. I tore it down to install Timken inner can bearings which are not here yet, Then I will dyno. One thing I noticed, Push rods contacted top of tube cover so you have to move rocker arm plate as close to cam side of engine as possible to gain the most clearance. Also if you use the non behive valve springs you will have to machine rocker boxes & covers or use SE Boxes and covers.
Hey Dawg-
Where are you on yur cam install? Got 'er going yet, and if so how does it run out?
Cheers,
Mark
Just buttoned up the camchest yesterday. Had to wait for the holiday break to be over cuz the shop was closed and I forgot to grab the gear lock tool[:@]and I needed a different spacer for the rear cam sprocket. I still got to get some adjustable pushrods, probably going with the SE's but gotta get the cash up for 'em
Just to update, picked up bike yesterday, have to do a break in before final dyno tune. Rev limiter is set at 4 grand to keep me honest. All I can say is about the ride home is WOW. Here is what I ended up having done:
Bored and honed, while torqued to spec, stock cylinders to 103"
SE 103FlatTop Pistons
SE Adjustable Pushrods
SE Heavy Clutch Spring
MRC EZ Pull Clutch Ramp
Zippers 577-HS Cams (for 2007 up) (Mechanic said the stock Beehive valve springs are actually good to .600 lift, so no worries there).
New Lifters
New Cam Chain TensionerPad
Torrington Bearings
Anxious to get my break in miles finished, but of all things it is snowing in GA today.
Oh yeah, also had the Wild One 12.5 Apes installed with associated brake, throttle and clutch cables.
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