So, it appears that both my upper and lower gaskets are leaking on my jugs. (Oh joy.) It's a 1996 Dyna FXD. I have Harley cylinders & heads (I think) w/ an S&S case (don't ask - I didn't build it.) The bike has roughly 20k on the engine (i'm told.) Bought the bike used about 6 months ago.

So, here's my questions:

- I know I've got to go in and replace gaskets - need a gasket kit. I'm leaning towards the Screaming Eagle one. Any feedback on that - or a better choice?

- I'm decent at wrenching (clutches, brake jobs, etc.) but have never done a head job on a harley. I have the shop manual - am I in over my head?

- What special tools do I need for the job? I've got a torque wrench & ring compressor. What else? Do I need a valve spring compressor??? (If so, can I use something besides the "Harley special tool"?

- What other "stuff" should I consider replacing and/or upgrading while I'm in there. I wouldn't mind some modest performance gains - but want to work within a realistic budget & make sure I don't compromise the every day drivability of the bike.

- How far down do I need to stip the bike? If everything looks good - leave the rocker arms, valves, etc. alone and just replace gaskets - or am I being an idiot to not do everyting?

- Are there any hidden "gottchyas" on the job? or things I should pay special attention to?

- Are there any good posts that give a blow by blow on this? I couldn't seem to find one.

Any and all advice is very appreciated. Thanks!

 

It's not that big of a job. There are lots of things you could do. You should have a H-D service manual. Read the areas of the manual for the job a few times so it is familiar, then ask a few more questions. I'm sure folks here will help. Sounds like you have the major tools, just a couple others would make it easier. Removing the fuel tank (obviously...lol) and exhaust is the place to start. The job can be performed with engine in frame. Any performance mods. can be decided according to budget and confidence.

Bean

 

I just replaced the gaskets on my 94 FXSTC, was not that bad. Here is the link I posted when I was doing and the response's https://www.hdforums.com/m_113566/mp.../tm.htm#155908
The one thing I am glad I had before hand was flat rocker wrench, not needed but saved a lot of time J&P 910-104 for 19.99. I also ended up having to replace stud that came loose, and the plastic L fitting on the carb that broke. The ring compressor must be able to open to get around the studs. I went with the Screaming Eagle Gasket kit, it had everything. Hope this helps.
Best regards,

jon

 

If you want to pull the heads with engine still in chassis, you'll benefit from a rocker box wrench to start. They are about $16. You don't have room to remove them without one. Other than that, you should be O.K. No need to remove the rocker assembly or dissasemble the heads unless something is not right. With the heads off you can check your cylinder bores & valves for excessive wear. As far as performance goes, remember the horsepower/torque is in the heads. Good port work can cost $$ but sometimes a performance valve job & minor port work will do the same thing to improve performance. Just be careful who does them as there are alot of "Head Guys" out there that can't cut the mustard . Do NOT over port the heads if you ride on the street. Port for torque, NOT Horsepower. As far as gaskets, there are several good gasket companies including Harley, James & Cometic. Cometic gaskets have the best sealing in my opinion.
You'll be surprised just how easy this gasket change thing is. Best buy a H-D manual for your model, also you can find some good instructions from the tech pages in V-Twin Cafe website. GOOD LUCK!!

 

Hey thanks guys for the responses. So, here's where I'm at:

- Pulled the heads and jugs - piece of cake.
- Turns out I have Screaming Eagle Pop-Up pistons :-) (I bought the bike used - so this was a pleasant surprise.)
- Also have Jim's adjustable pushrods

Condition was:
- Heads were heavily carboned up. Slight amount also on top of piston. I was frankly surprised at this.
<Question> Is this normal? I have them cleaned up - but what the heck???
- Cylinders seemed to be fine - normal wear.
- Heads have been "o-ringed" what I mean by that is there is both a normal (flat) gasket (metal) and there was a groove machined in with a rubber o-ring in it.
<Question> How do I go about determining the size and type of replacement o-ring - since I don't believe this is normal/stock
- Pistons do NOT have any over-bore size stamped on them - thus I'm assuming that I have not had a bore job done. . . . let me know if this isn't correct please.

What I'm thinking of doing is:
- having cylinders "rehoned" just to knock the glaze off them.
<Question> Most of the shops seem to think they'll just run a honing tool down there without using torque plates, etc. Is this ok? I'm not needing it bored out - just honed.
- Running Total Seal Rings (you can see them at www.totalseal.com)
<Question> They told me that I'd need to tell them the bore size and piston groove size so they could match up rings? How the heck do I determine this? I'm thinking of just sending them the old rings. . . )
Also, a little more info on the Total Seal rings. In order to install I'm told (by a fellow named Ed at Total Seal - who seemed very knowledgable) that I needed 1) to hone cylinder to factory specs 2) to install aftermarket valve guide seals. (He recomended Cometic) 3) Set Timing breather gear to max (apparently the S&S site is a wealth of info on this) and 4) Install a Hayden vent
<Question> Anyone had problems with these rings? Anything else I should be doing?
- I'm going to go with the Cometic gasket kit. Narrowed it down to either James or Cometic. After some research I think the Cometic is better technology. Plus their customer service was light years ahead of James. (I was informed that the James tech doesn't like to talk to customers - so I had to relay all of my questions through their receptionist who would go ask him and then come back on the phone to me. It was a painful process since the I don't believe the receptionist had a clue on what I was trying to figure out.) Also, I'm planning on going with the .030 head kit. Should give me a nice little bump.
<Question> Anyone had a bad experience with the Cometic gaskets?
- I'm going to install the Hayden Oil Fix Kit for the base gaskets.
<Question> Anyone had any experience with this kit?

So, a couple more questions:
- Should I pull the pistions and replace the wrist pins while I'm in there? They seem fine and I'm tempted to leave them alone.
- Is there any coating that I should put on piston heads or cylinder walls? I've heard of silcone treatments, sealers, etc. Anything I should do there? (Especially since I had to do some light sanding on my piston heads and the heads to remove the carbon build-up)?

Thanks in advance for any help - I appreciate it!

 

Say, one other question. One of the shops I was talking to said I needed to replace my cylinder studs - or I'd possibly have warpage. . . and thus end up with leaking gaskets again. Any truth to this? If so, how hard are these to pull?

Thanks.

 

You have everything off do what you want now.

If you don't have it yet, get a service manual.

Look inside the cylinders and run your finger along the inside like you were scratching for a flea. If you feel a ridge at what would be the bottom or top of the piston stroke that might determine whether your can hone or bore. Too large a lip and you could break a ring.

Have them measured for out of round and taper. You might want to get a shop to check them. The tools required are rather expensive. You must rebore if the parallel and perpendicular measurements at either the top , middle, or bottom vary by more than .002. This means they are out of round.

If you can get away with just honing, remember 60 degree crosshatch pattern. This is important for the life of the rings.

You will need the pistons off to measure them and check them for cracks and out of round.


And yes I would replace the wristpins and sleeves. I would also replace the oil pump. A high volumn pump will pay off in the long run.

Engine Assembly Grease. Yea if you use this one: http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products.php

Take your time, do it right.

 

Thanks Lee.

So, a brief update.

I went with Cometic gaskets. Jason from Cometic was great - customer service unbelivable. Thus far very impressed with the product. (My assembly is not complete though.)

I went with Total Seal rings. Ed from Total Seal was very good. A few things on that. Had my pistons honed to Total Seal Spec (cost me $40.00) Also installed a Hayden breather to help with the additional pressure the total seal rings cause on the downstroke.

Have purchased the Hayden "oil fix" kit too. Actually the lady from Hayden told me I didn't really need it with the breather installed. (The breather apparently lowers pressure in the crank case so much that you don't get leaking.) Also, Cometic told me their gaskets wouldn't leak. But heck, while I'm in there - I don't want any leaking at all. . . .

So far everything has been going fine on the tear down and reasembly - until I got into my tappet guides. I found I had a broken one there - so I'm waiting for parts. I have some questions on that - but will cover in a seperate post.