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I just did a 95 incher this year. Got Wiseco's 9:1 with Cometic .030" head gasket. The stock heads were ported with bigger valves to match the TW 21G cams. 108 ft. lbs. torque down low. Pulling a trailer in Colorado never needs downshifting!! Compression is 185 lbs. Just one of the many choices you can make. If your going with adjustable pushrods use the SE tapered ones. One problem with non tapered ones is you can hit the sides of the pushrod tubes causing the ball to pop in and out of the rocker arm causing a loud tick. The stock rods are 3/8" and non tapered ones are 7/16". The tapered ones are the best of both worlds, however they are pricey! I agree with those steering you away from the 203 cam, it's not a good cam. 204 is better if you plan on staying with SE.
Good luck!
I can appreciate that you are on a budget. You have good parts and I think you are taking this chain tensioner thing too serous. Use the 203s with the kit and it will save you $550. And you can save money running just a down load from the dealer.They work nicely without the added expense of the gear drive. If there is a problem with the pump, replace it with a stocker. If the cam plate is also toast, get the SE pump and plate # 25283-07 and a new set of tensioners. As mentioned above, the pump and plate from Chicago HD $345. You are not going to turn this motor past 6000 so there is nothing wrong with the standard HD lifters. Just pick up a set from the dealer. Now with the $550 you saved not going gear drive, and a tuner and dyno time by using the HD download, You can invest in a .030 head gasket and a set of SE tapered push rods #18404-08. Worst case scenario, you timing chains have more then 75,000 miles so throw in a new set. Put it together and enjoy it. You will still have money left to start saving for the gear drive and new cam in the future if so desired. The 3 HP at 5200 is not enough to convince me I need gear drive. You may be able to get a better cam but a couple of TQ & HP #s just isn't worth the added expense. JMO
I can appreciate that you are on a budget. You have good parts and I think you are taking this chain tensioner thing too serous. Use the 203s with the kit and it will save you $550. And you can save money running just a down load from the dealer.They work nicely without the added expense of the gear drive. If there is a problem with the pump, replace it with a stocker. If the cam plate is also toast, get the SE pump and plate # 25283-07 and a new set of tensioners. As mentioned above, the pump and plate from Chicago HD $345. You are not going to turn this motor past 6000 so there is nothing wrong with the standard HD lifters. Just pick up a set from the dealer. Now with the $550 you saved not going gear drive, and a tuner and dyno time by using the HD download, You can invest in a .030 head gasket and a set of SE tapered push rods #18404-08. Worst case scenario, you timing chains have more then 75,000 miles so throw in a new set. Put it together and enjoy it. You will still have money left to start saving for the gear drive and new cam in the future if so desired. The 3 HP at 5200 is not enough to convince me I need gear drive. You may be able to get a better cam but a couple of TQ & HP #s just isn't worth the added expense. JMO
Thanx RC..... I have 15K miles on it. The Fueling lifters were $30 cheaper than Harley's.... I can't find the tensioners online anywhere and Harley wants $65 each... have to do it though... I am going to put everything that came with the kit in...yes even the 203 cams... everybody is talking about the TW6 or HQ 34's but I really don't know what that is going to get me in terms of just switching the 203's to one of the others and staying chain driven and what comes in the BB kit. I am not doing head work at this time cause of money. If I don't have to do the push rods I won't do that either. At least until I do more engine work later. So I do not need any Race Tuner or Power commander??? FLSTCI ...
davese, If you have an EFI bike you will need a cartridge flash (which you will probably not be able to do at the house) or some type of tuning device (SERT, PCIII, etc. which can be done at the house). The cartridge flash will probably get you to around 85% of where you want to go. The cartridge flash could end up being exactly what you need, but you wont know until bike is put on a dyno and checked. With my '06 Deuce, the Stage 1 "Race" cartridge was perfect for my motor. Dyno operator put it on the dyno, did the applicable pulls, and said "That is what it is supposed to look like". I was one of the lucky ones where the cartridge worked perfect for my needs. The cartridge is $150 plus labor to have ECM flashed. If the cartridge does not get you where you want to be (AFR not right, timing needs adjustment, etc.), you are out the $ and still have to by a tuning device. You could take the $ for one time flash and put it towards a tuning device. I am doing a budget build "Stage 2" to my Deuce this winter and am going to purchase a tuning device instead of using another flash just in case the timing needs tweeking or AFR is not right. If your bike is carb, then you don't need SERT or PCIII; but this "FLSTCI ..." makes me think you have EFI. Keep us updated on your build and results! Later, Calvin.
If you have an EFI bike you will need a cartridge flash (which you will probably not be able to do at the house) or some type of tuning device (SERT, PCIII, etc. which can be done at the house). I just meant that you could flash / install at the house. Later, Calvin.
Wood 6's
S&S pushrod kit
Re-surface heads(at least)
But if a set of heads were used that complement the build, you will be accused of having a much larger engine.
This is a fact.
Scott
if you are using stock heads and flattop pistons, you're compression will be way too low for 251 cams...if you're stuck on harley cams, consider the 204's...power commander works as well as race tuner for a mild build like this...really depends on the guy who is tuning it...what does he prefer?
251 will need adjustable push rods. You will also suffer in the low RPM range as torque goes. That cam is not suited for the compression you will have. The only 2 SE cams that work well with you build would be a 203 that you have or a 204.
PC is cheaper than a SERT. If using the set up you described you only would need to have HD download. If going with a PC or SERT you would still start with a base map you either stick with or pay $$ to have it dyno tuned (Dialed In).
Last edited by FXSTDSE2; Sep 12, 2008 at 04:58 PM.
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