New Cam/performance question
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Flat Rock, Michigan
New Cam/performance question
I have a new Andrews 26G cam gear drive setup I was thinking of installing in a 02 FXDL 88" with stage 1 already completed. Most of my cruising is highway/freeway I-75. The reason I was considering the Andrews 26G was to A) eliminate the dreaded cam chain tensioner maintenence and B) to improve the low/middle torque curve of the motor. I might consider consider going to a 95" big bore kit in the future but not now as money is tight and job security is becoming a question in this economy. I have a few questions regarding this upgrade.
1st: Is this too much cam if I don't go to a 95" big bore kit?
2nd: Would be using the .030 headgaskets by themselves (meaning no othe engine mods except the cams) during the installation make any noticeable difference?
3rd: If I had to choose; would I be better off getting the heads milled/ported/polished and using the .030 headgaskets versus going to the 95" BB be a wiser choice?
I realise the best choice for these cams would probably be to go with both the BB and the head work, but I will have to space this job out over a couple of riding seasons due to funding issues.
Thanks for the input!
1st: Is this too much cam if I don't go to a 95" big bore kit?
2nd: Would be using the .030 headgaskets by themselves (meaning no othe engine mods except the cams) during the installation make any noticeable difference?
3rd: If I had to choose; would I be better off getting the heads milled/ported/polished and using the .030 headgaskets versus going to the 95" BB be a wiser choice?
I realise the best choice for these cams would probably be to go with both the BB and the head work, but I will have to space this job out over a couple of riding seasons due to funding issues.
Thanks for the input!
Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From:
to answer your questions as best I can, no the 26 is not too much cam if you don't do anything else. You could put it in without removing the heads at all and realize a gain.
If you are planning to remove the heads, then a thinner gasket would help, I would venture to say it would be noticeable. However, it's a lot of work that you don't need to do to change the cam.
I'll be the pros will echo me in saying that if you can afford to do the whole thing at once, do BB and porting in addition to the cam and you'll be pleased. I couldn't afford to do the whole thing at once, so I did just the cam and it worked out well for me. Don't forget to budget a few hundred for tuning on a dyno after whatever mods you make.....
If you are planning to remove the heads, then a thinner gasket would help, I would venture to say it would be noticeable. However, it's a lot of work that you don't need to do to change the cam.
I'll be the pros will echo me in saying that if you can afford to do the whole thing at once, do BB and porting in addition to the cam and you'll be pleased. I couldn't afford to do the whole thing at once, so I did just the cam and it worked out well for me. Don't forget to budget a few hundred for tuning on a dyno after whatever mods you make.....
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 851
Likes: 5
From: Mitchellville, Ia.
Rr525
The bolt in cam I like is the new RR525G cam which will pull heat out of the engine as well as jacking up the low and mid range torque. Will even work better if you decide to go to 95 or 98" with higher compression (9.8 to 10.2) and even better with head porting.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 936
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
King..the R&R525g has almost identical charateristics as the Andrews TW37g..except the RR has .015 more lift..(according to the Boyz calc.) Where can we see more info on this cam..I went to the RR site but can't seem to find numbers and price..thx
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,437
Likes: 15
I contacted R&R and their response was that it needed more than stock compression. I want to try one but just can not find any dyno charts. Everyone I know personally that used 37's on stock 88's and even 95 without bumping the compression said they were disappointed down low.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
expolice: The Andrews 26 will be fine in a stock 88 and the 95 later if you decide to do it. Depending on future headwork, the 26 might not be enough cam for the 95.
Do the cam swap--you may be surprised by the performance improvement and you won't think about headwork now especially if money is tight.
Do the cam swap--you may be surprised by the performance improvement and you won't think about headwork now especially if money is tight.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Flat Rock, Michigan
Thanks to all for the information. Employer says all is OK, but with latest drop in stock price and stock market, I fear bankrupcy may be near. OL's employer may also be approaching similar fate. We live in SE Michigan and both work in the declining auto industry! Since I already have the 26G cams and bearings, looks like the next step is to pick up the adjustable pushrods so I avoid removal of the heads. Any advice on adjustable pushrods brands to buy/avoid? I'll start saving pennies for possible head work if/when I do the big bore kit. I'm not trying to light the pavement on fire; just looking to improve my ability to pass the many gravel haulers that I encounter daily when I commute on I-75. Had some gravel/road debris once hit and break off the end of the oil pressure sending unit and put a nice cut across the toe of my boot! Maybe I should look for either a better/safer way to ride to work or maybe a different job altogether with better future job security!
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Stage I, T/C Heads
We use S&S pushrods a lot here.
Some mild cylinder head work*, without breaking the bank, with spark it up quite a bit.
Some mild cylinder head work*, without breaking the bank, with spark it up quite a bit.
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I have a new Andrews 26G cam gear drive setup I was thinking of installing in a 02 FXDL 88" with stage 1 already completed. Most of my cruising is highway/freeway I-75. The reason I was considering the Andrews 26G was to A) eliminate the dreaded cam chain tensioner maintenence and B) to improve the low/middle torque curve of the motor. I might consider consider going to a 95" big bore kit in the future but not now as money is tight and job security is becoming a question in this economy. I have a few questions regarding this upgrade.
1st: Is this too much cam if I don't go to a 95" big bore kit?
2nd: Would be using the .030 headgaskets by themselves (meaning no othe engine mods except the cams) during the installation make any noticeable difference?
3rd: If I had to choose; would I be better off getting the heads milled/ported/polished and using the .030 headgaskets versus going to the 95" BB be a wiser choice?
I realise the best choice for these cams would probably be to go with both the BB and the head work, but I will have to space this job out over a couple of riding seasons due to funding issues.
Thanks for the input!
1st: Is this too much cam if I don't go to a 95" big bore kit?
2nd: Would be using the .030 headgaskets by themselves (meaning no othe engine mods except the cams) during the installation make any noticeable difference?
3rd: If I had to choose; would I be better off getting the heads milled/ported/polished and using the .030 headgaskets versus going to the 95" BB be a wiser choice?
I realise the best choice for these cams would probably be to go with both the BB and the head work, but I will have to space this job out over a couple of riding seasons due to funding issues.
Thanks for the input!
A. The Andrews 26g is a great cam. WIll give you what your looking for regardless of the piston size(ie: 88" or 95" setup)used.
B. On that stock engine there is no garentee what a .030 thick headgasket will do until you yourself or someone else clays and cc's the engine to see where your compression and squishband are at right now.
C. DO NOT do a "big bore kit"! DO NOT BUY NEW 95" cylinders. If your going to go 95" then get your stock cylinders BORED out! THey are already seasoned and if bored correctly(with tq plates)by a competent shop will give you a much better ring seal then getting a pair of junk off the self cylinders from HD. You will also save considerable money going this route as well, only needing to buy a new pair of pistons and rings.
Honestly if you already have the gear drive setup, go ahead and buy some cast HD 95" pistons and rings and get the job done all at once. Doing the 95" route in parts should cost you no more than about $200. Having your stock cylinders bored should run no more than $100 as well.
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