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I have a '07 Heritage with about 25k miles. I have really been bit by the touring bug, but have no desire to move to a dresser (I'll save that for when I get older). I'm thinking now that winter has set in, it may be time for some motor upgrades. I'm not big into numbers (bike nite dyno numbers), but I would like to build something that would be bullet-proof yet powerful enough to pass that semi at 80 MPH, while 2 up and maybe pulling a trailer. Any thoughts, tips, advice for the new guy? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and plan on doing most of the work myself.
go with 3.625 cylinders (around 9.5 to 9.8-1 comp) & stock stroke(89")or 4.5 stroke (93")and a .520 S&S cam,you`ll have alot of good,useable power(down low)and great reliablity.i`de also think about a OD 6 speed.
kirby
facebook: kirby apathy
Last edited by prodrag1320; Dec 9, 2009 at 02:34 PM.
So, I think Kirby would tell you to do either a 103 or a 107. Cost would be close to the same if you went with forged pistons. Forged is a teeny bit of PITA, because one has to do a proper warm up before every ride.
Now, a 103 with cast pistons would be a nice upgrade that YOU could handle yourself.
YOU could also do the aforementioned forged 107 upgrade yourself too.
Me? (And Kirby too, I suspect) would recommend that you have YOUR cylinders bored to the proper specs instead of buying a 103 kit from Harley. Why? Once and awhile, there have been instances of folks getting out of round OR out of taper cylinders straight from Harley.
You will find a LOT of various alternatives to doing this increase in size upgrade. There are a LOT of very good 'kits' available that have pistons, cams, etc. and these can be great 'bolt-in' kits.
I have decided to no longer name the shops... spam... but others will surely tell you the 3-4 best places to buy a 103 or 107 upgrade kit you could install yourself.
Working on your bike is very rewarding. WAY better than chrome doo dads. The self satisfaction is WAY a$$ up there. DIY engine mods on a Harley really does beat most anything else you could do to your bike.
PM me, and I would gladly tell you who I think has good upgrade kits for you.
Last edited by wurk_truk; Dec 9, 2009 at 04:54 PM.
Here in the flat lands we use a fair amount of the straight cnc ported heads with the 1.900" valves for the baggers that are not pulling heavy loads. For the rest, the welded heads with the vortex generators bring the torque up quicker and although the peak numbers don't go up a lot, the area under the dyno curve is significanlty more without a radical cam. The oil temperature rarely goes over 205 degrees. Nothing wrong with only going 103" if taking the cylinders out to 107" scares you. Only 4-5 less torque and horse.
From: Formerly Tampa Bay, FL, Currently Western PA
Why would you wait until you're older to get a bagger? I mean, the Heritage is pretty close to start, but by going to a touring you'd get the rubber mounted engine, bigger tank, etc. If you don't want the huge look of the big baggers, get a road king, especially the classic. I've said many times that I have a "touring bike that looks like a softail" about my Road King Custon.
I have a '07 Heritage with about 25k miles. I have really been bit by the touring bug, but have no desire to move to a dresser (I'll save that for when I get older). I'm thinking now that winter has set in, it may be time for some motor upgrades. I'm not big into numbers (bike nite dyno numbers), but I would like to build something that would be bullet-proof yet powerful enough to pass that semi at 80 MPH, while 2 up and maybe pulling a trailer. Any thoughts, tips, advice for the new guy? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and plan on doing most of the work myself.
What's your budget?
Are you bone stock now or have you done a/c and exhuast and tuner?
Very simple, straightforward, reliable, performace kit that we sell is our Stage III Head, a Bob Wood 6 or 7H (more torque yet) and your cylinders bored to accept our 107" private label pistons from Wiesco. With good exhaust 110/120 is within reach. Big, broad, strong torque coming off idle, and building, and the 1.940" valve head, keeps the engine cooler as well. Complete kit with everything you need, including a Barnett clutch spring,(you'll need it!) S&S pushrods, compression releases, rings set, cam bearings, Cometic gaskets.
Scott
Last edited by Shovelhead Bob; Dec 14, 2009 at 07:34 PM.
Reason: Posted a price in a Technical thread
All I can tell you is this. Call around dont rush. I did an Im having to get mine checked. Check check an then recheck. Call Basiley, R&R, Rosias, GMR, Vee Twin Preformance an there is alot more of them. call every where... Get all the info in advance an in writing... Good luck..
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