bottom end
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
bottom end
Hi on my 1989 FLHTP I will be pulling the motor, the motor near as I can tell has been top end rebuilt at least once and bottom end also at least once and only reason I know this is I've seen white\clear silicone or something along that line hanging from the casing joints at the bottom. My question is are there any tell tail signs that the bottom end needs to be split once the top end is removed? I don't have a lot of extra cash and the bike makes no un-normal sounds when its running.All I've done to the motor myself is a bit more aggressive cam and new HD lifters along with easy install pushrods.I had done compression test on hot motor and got 140 lb on front and back.
Thanks
Thanks
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,537
Likes: 21
Here is crank bearing check procedure for cars which maybe can be used for Harleys.
Turn crank and stop in position pulling piston down. Through spark plug hole push piston down by thick philips screwdriver . If bearing is bad you will feel free play. It is a good idea to use metal rod with round end to minimize piston damage.
If you don't hear crank knock why do you worry?
Turn crank and stop in position pulling piston down. Through spark plug hole push piston down by thick philips screwdriver . If bearing is bad you will feel free play. It is a good idea to use metal rod with round end to minimize piston damage.
If you don't hear crank knock why do you worry?
It's an Evo motor, NOT A Flood Damaged Subaru....
With your vast knowledge of the V-Twin motor, I will ask that you CEASE and DESIST from advising on things that you have no WORKING knowledge of...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,537
Likes: 21
Hi on my 1989 FLHTP I will be pulling the motor, the motor near as I can tell has been top end rebuilt at least once and bottom end also at least once and only reason I know this is I've seen white\clear silicone or something along that line hanging from the casing joints at the bottom. My question is are there any tell tail signs that the bottom end needs to be split once the top end is removed? I don't have a lot of extra cash and the bike makes no un-normal sounds when its running.All I've done to the motor myself is a bit more aggressive cam and new HD lifters along with easy install pushrods.I had done compression test on hot motor and got 140 lb on front and back.
Thanks
Thanks
The only way to know if you need to split the cases is to do a radial runout check on BOTH pinion ends.... Total runout spec is in your manual, but should be as close to 0.001" as possible...
Those are tough wheels in that motor, but they can be knocked out of true... That is really the only reason, other than the motor seal at the stator leaking, and even then, the case doesn't have to be split...
Banned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 1
From: underground
Here is crank bearing check procedure for cars which maybe can be used for Harleys.
Turn crank and stop in position pulling piston down. Through spark plug hole push piston down by thick philips screwdriver . If bearing is bad you will feel free play. It is a good idea to use metal rod with round end to minimize piston damage.
If you don't hear crank knock why do you worry?
Turn crank and stop in position pulling piston down. Through spark plug hole push piston down by thick philips screwdriver . If bearing is bad you will feel free play. It is a good idea to use metal rod with round end to minimize piston damage.
If you don't hear crank knock why do you worry?
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: Boston area
Car, Harley cranks are nothing like automobile cranks. They are not one solid piece, they are pressed together and they can "shift". I know you are trying to help, but you may need to sit back and absorb a little more info, when it comes to subjects like this.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Montana
140# compression test for both cylinders, no unusual noises or vibration, all indications are things are ok---now-- When you change the oil after a good hot run, strain the oil through a paint strainer and check for any pieces of metal, brass, aluminum, iron,, remember pieces of metal are bad,, fine dust on the drain plug magnet or paint strainer are to be expected,, also I would suggest opening up the oil filter, look for (pieces) between the filter folds. If none are found,, adjust the clutch if needed,,fresh filter and blood and enjoy your ride. I would suggest no screwdrivers touching the pistons --just sayin,, anyone else have some ideas for ridemywg?
R.
R.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 254
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From: FL
There is nothing to talk to you about unless you were working in engine machine shop.
Last edited by car5car; Dec 27, 2009 at 11:35 PM.