SE Rocker Arms 1.725:1
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
If I had a cam I liked, just wanted to raise the lift a little and had a set of these rockers around I would do it.
Easier that a cam change.
It'll raise a .575 cam to about to 0.600. Not too bad.
But S&S rollers cost a lot. About what a cam costs.
Easier that a cam change.
It'll raise a .575 cam to about to 0.600. Not too bad.
But S&S rollers cost a lot. About what a cam costs.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
I know this is an old thread but I'm wondering....
If you're trying to create a higher lift through rocker ratio change....why not just find a cam with the approximate lift you want to begin with? Wouldn't that make more sense?
In most cases, changing the rockers to a higher ratio version is just as costly if not more so than buying a new cam although less intrusive as the rocker box is relatively easy to gain access to.
I am a total newb to performance work on v-twins and just trying to understand.
Also, since we're discussing lift...I've looked high and low for it. Do you know the max lift on a set of stock 06+ heads? I haven't had my wood tw6 cams in for a month yet and already looking at either the tw5-6 or tw7 which are both hi lift cams but state on Wood site (use with stock heads) @ .575" lift.
I would figure Bob W. wouldn't steer anyone wrong, at least I hope not....
If you're trying to create a higher lift through rocker ratio change....why not just find a cam with the approximate lift you want to begin with? Wouldn't that make more sense?
In most cases, changing the rockers to a higher ratio version is just as costly if not more so than buying a new cam although less intrusive as the rocker box is relatively easy to gain access to.
I am a total newb to performance work on v-twins and just trying to understand.
Also, since we're discussing lift...I've looked high and low for it. Do you know the max lift on a set of stock 06+ heads? I haven't had my wood tw6 cams in for a month yet and already looking at either the tw5-6 or tw7 which are both hi lift cams but state on Wood site (use with stock heads) @ .575" lift.
I would figure Bob W. wouldn't steer anyone wrong, at least I hope not....
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 4
From: la
When I bought my cams I didn't know the springs could handle more lift, my heads were coming off anyway so doing the rockers for about 150 to my door was an easy fix. I do like the TW5-6 and if I knew what I know now they would be in my bike. I get tempted to do it still but I'm not sure if the .34 more lift and 1 less degree in intake valve closing would be worth the time and price.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
I think the arm reaching to the valve stem is the same as stock, it is the arm the pushrod fits into that is a little shorter. To get the ratio.
As Hillside said would be OK for a cam going from, .555 to, .590. Any higher and a roller tip is needed.
Which brings that question up. I really like S&S roller tips. and the reason is the longer bushions inside. Labor is the same.
As Hillside said would be OK for a cam going from, .555 to, .590. Any higher and a roller tip is needed.
Which brings that question up. I really like S&S roller tips. and the reason is the longer bushions inside. Labor is the same.
SHOULD inrease torque, and broaden duration slightly; that's what they were designed to do per the motor builders I know. Chevy's version sure Did It for my 350CI HO motor in my Firebird Trans-Am. CHEAP power if you pay attention to clearances (BUT, see my posting on the issues I am having with a TQ build 103 motor). It's looking more like an exhaust tuning issue now. Per one engine builder I know, you'll be fine w/ the cross-over pipes or 2 into 1's with a bit of back pressure and good scavanging. Use a set of SE Conical "Beehive" springs, good for 0.685 lift and no float, no bind. I'm using them and like 'em.
-Stoood
-Stoood