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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for all the good advice guys. It just gets frustrating when you are trying to do some good stuff to your bike and the stealer starts rippin you a new one. And Scott, where do I pick up a 4* advance gear? Any specific brand or manufacturer?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #12  
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Bob Wood has 'em, and we do as well.
Part # 216020+4.
Scott
 
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #13  
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Remember to put a dab of lube on them before you insert-um! :-) Mmmmmmmm, I'm guessin spit wont work then..??
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:04 AM
  #14  
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Pay attention to what Dalton said.
There are a couple of details there that can be overlooked. Needles and which side to go in first.
Simple really just take reasonable care.
Get a SERVICE MANUAl. Will pay for itself over many times.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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I installed mine last weekend. Used the harbor freight puller. The old bearings didn't pop right out, but that's what the slide hammer is for. With that tool there's no way the needles can fall in the motor, though the bearings didn't come apart. I didn't freeze the new bearings or lube them to install. You do need to slide an old bearing on the cam first as a spacer and then the new bearing to install them. I compared the depth and just used common sense when knocking them in. The main thing that got me was the inch pound torque on all the bolts. After building car engines this was the first time to work on a vtwin. Without a manual I would have overtightened ever bolt for sure. It started and and idled great. Waiting on another tuner and decent weather for the test. Good luck.

Oh yeah, f--k the dealer. I'm so sick and tired of this new harley crap. They take one look at me and it's "jack up the parts prices because he's not a HOG member". They do that sh-t too.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 09:29 AM
  #16  
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Yes torque is important. Not so much because of the bolt streatch, with HD, but because relative small steel bolts into aluminum.

A 3/16 inch bolt holding a holly fuel bowl taught me in 1962. And that was the day you didn't just go down a pick up anything almost anywhere. Brought proceedings to a standstill for awhile.

"Just right", is not a measure.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com
If you run into a snag, during the install, call us, and we'll be happy to walk you though it.
BTW, a 4* advance gear really wakes those Wood 6 cam's up, on a bolt-in only set up.
Scott
When you run the advance gear what pushrods do you use? I used the tapered SE and notice some clatter at 2.5. A few posts talk about taking them to 3 or 3.5 to compress the lifter to approx 1.50.
Is it worth the extra loading of the lifter or just live with the clatter?( worse warm around 2800)
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 09:50 PM
  #18  
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I would try setting the depth to .150, some people have done this and had good results.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #19  
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the .150 works great. Scott talked me into that one and have done it on three different cams on two different bikes now. 31/2 to 4 turns on the tapers.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by wurk_truk
the .150 works great. Scott talked me into that one and have done it on three different cams on two different bikes now. 31/2 to 4 turns on the tapers.
You're talking about the SE tapers right? I had heard of going 3 turns but not more. I went 2.5 and it was quiet cold, and sewing machine hot. I had thought about going 3 when I get my new pushrod (previous post).
 
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