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I want it all LOL. I like low end grunt but dont want it to fall off too soon. I ride solo but weigh 300lbs. My buddy and I drag race from every light and sometimes go to the strip. We also fly on the hwy sometimes.
My old bike was a CVO Road glide, 110" with 255 cams. Those cams are dead after 4000 rpm and I hated that.
So I guess what Im saying is I want something that pulls from around 2300 to 5500 and has crisp throttle response.
If you want it all, then the Wood 6-6/4* advance combo, is your man.
Scott
Another option for a stock 96" would be the new Andrews 48H. Looks like it has similar low/mid as the SE255 but runs out a little longer. That said, I don't know if Andrews has released them yet ???
Another option for a stock 96" would be the new Andrews 48H. Looks like it has similar low/mid as the SE255 but runs out a little longer. That said, I don't know if Andrews has released them yet ???
I go along with this. Stoplight to stoplight, with stock compression, these would be the cams to run. They'd also give a lot of power with just a twist of the wrist out on the highway.
What if he was fat like me (350lbs), rode fairly aggressive and up to this point was happy with the 96" top end performance but wanted tire shredding torque and excellent midrange??
A cam like the Andrews TW48 will improve performance everywhere. Most other aftermarket cams will greatly increase performance, even more so than the 48, at high rpm but decrease performance to way less than stock below 3000rpm.
I was in the same situation for over a month. Lots of good info on this site and another one. Lots of reading. I too ended looking at 54H or TW6. I chose TW6-6. I got them from Jamie @ FuelMoto for a decent price; well, they're still expensive, but you can't get away from paying for these. Anyhow, I was getting ready to shell out more money for gear drive. Jamie wasn't thrilled about gear for my specific bike. He had me contact Bob Woods himself. He in turn explained he did not recommend gear for my specific bike because it is known to have a different shaft angle than before; and so the gears just won't work as well as he would like them to. Saved me a lot of headache and some mula.
So I took the cams to AEHD in Corinth TX to install. Kevin did a good job, as usual. He also recommended I get the heavy duty clutch spring. did it.
I used the Mastertune TTS to tune. It sucked at first, using just the TD205 calibration file. At the tiem there was no good match (calibration file) for a cam like mine. So I searched for the closest thing, an HD 203. I found a calibration for one in an engine my size from 2006. I copied its spark tables to mine. MUCH better. I then had to add timing here, take some out there, etc, to get it to work well. Pulled strong from about 2K rpm up.
I just don't have experience to fine tune the lower rpm. So it was sluggish there; especially in low gears. I took it to thedynodifference.com. That too took me a helluva long time to research; looking for a good tuner near North Texas. Found Ed @ thedynodifference thanks to this site. He did exactly what the other threads say. Went over it with a fine-tooth comb. He created his own calibration file (I was there, I saw him fine tune the heck out of that thing; and yes, I saw him use a "Twin" dongle).
As Mastertune says, the dyno will probably give you just a few more ponies and pounds than a good VTune. It did. 2 more pounds and 1 more pony. Now it is 85HP and 102 lbs after Ed's tune.
But here's what's not in the numbers: damn, that thing rides a helluva lot better! It doesn't surge anymore, low rpm has pull now, it stopped snorting at me when I turn it off, damn thing purrs at idle instead of having idle apnea. Yea, I'd pay Ed that money all over again, knowing I'll increase max #s by just an increment, 'cause I know he'll set it up right.
so here's what I got:
2009 FLHR
HD heavy breather ac
stock headers into rino slipons
tw6-6 cams
And here's the chart from yesterday's dyno (attached, I hope).
nope on the 4* advance. I could be wrong, but it seemed to me the 4* tool adds that much timing over a pretty wide range of rpm.
See, I saw a few posts saying the tw6-6 + 4* combo was great. Yet, I saw a couple posts mention pinging. Well, for my own situation, it gets hot here more often than not. That, plus I kinda like riding the country, where the gas you get is a bit questionable. So those two factors made me nerveous about bumping 4* across the board.
More important, I was fortunate to already have MasterTune TTS for my bike. And I knew how to go into the individual cylinder tables and add timing if I wanted to, to any given rpm-kPa cell. So I knew that if I found the bike a bit sluggish in spots, I would be able to add timing myself. And in fact that's what I ended up doing. But I felt better about adding timing only where it was needed, not across a wide range; and hopefully avoid some pinging.
Ultimately, I realized my best efforts left me with a bike with good peak numbers, but it was just not as smooth as I would want it for the long haul. I knew that a professional tuner would know how to smooth things out, and there again I would end up with timing advanced only where I needed it, not across a wide range.
It seemed to me it was hard to go wrong with either Andrews 54 or TW6 (both fine choices, and both made by Andrews anyway). Still, I bet the odds are pretty good you'll end up as happy with your choice as the many of us who ended up with TW6-6 for our ride.
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