Unless we use an S&S crank, on the bigger builds here, we call on John Hoban, and Co., for their T/C crank(we re-build our own pre-99 cranks here in house) re-building and reconditioning skills.
Have yet to have an issue with their work here.
Scott

 

The engine didn't vibrate till the asinine thats posting as someone else on this thread that actually thinks he's a self made master mechanic just because he went to tech school did the rebuild.

Now you must know, This vibration is not anything slight. You can take it for a 20 min ride and come back with your feet tingling

What changed ?

The SE comp and the crank, piston rods .

TTs Master tune done by Heath.

Exhaust pipes ( D&D Fat Cat 2into1 ) has broke its mount twice.

The engine has been gone through by George of Redline. The best mechanic hands down in this area. He suggested it was the piston rods. The engine was realigned and new motor mounts all the way around.

This is the best I can translate what I feel - When you crank the engine. You can riv the rpm and when you get around 2300 rpm you can feel the vibration coming on. At 2500 to 3000 rpm its its worst. At 3100 it leaves. 3100 to 3900 you feel no vibration. the vibration gets worse on long trips. When the engine fully heats up to 230 degrees or an hour of highway riding, it seems to be worse. I run in the range of 2600 to 3000 rpms . the vibration can be felt most through the floor boards and my back rest, which is mounted on the finder and through the seat. You stay below 2400 or above 3200 rpm's, you feel nothing. I might add. When you are at 3200 rpm's, you cant see out the mirrors from the vibration. But you no longer feel it in the floor boards or back rest.

In my way of thinking. Go to the point where the vibration didn't accrue. Then start from there.
As I recall, The crank was sent off, New piston rods were installed and balanced. A SE compensator was installed. And a used clutch basket which Heath said was in perfect shape. Everything has been gone over by George and found nothing to be wrong. George stated quote - that kind of vibration has to come from something major. It's to strong to be anything else other than the crank. the crank can't compensate for the heaver piston rods. And there lye's your vibration problem.

 

I'm not saying by any stretch of the imagination that John doesn't know what he's doing. What I am saying , is nothing more than the facts. what it is ! Not who's at fault. If I knew the problem, I wouldn't be on here hunting. I talked to John yesterday.

The reason I was asking about another crank man, was because if there's one near me, I would love for him to get a feel of what the bike feels like and judge for himself.

 

Did George try removing the SE comp. and putting the stock one back in? I don't mean just eye balling it, and saying, "It looks good to me." I mean taking it out and trying the stock one. It's a pretty easy swap. You must always back track, and check out what had been replaced or messed with just before the problem showed it's face. I know of at least one SE comp., that caused enough vibration, that the owner removed it, and went back to the OEM unit.

 

FLHXXHLF, Sorry to hear about the latest problems with a business you've dealt with. I did a search on your history over the past two years. It's not pretty...
Here is a quote you made "Many thanks to DarkHorse Crank Works. Good people to deal with." You said this while slandering the Mechanic before DarkHorse.
The people on this forum are great. They will do research to find answers to the sometimes bizarre problems Harley's have. Don't be waisting their time by whining about the latest company, you think has done you wrong.......

 

Slanderous comments should not be tolerated!

 

This situation is what it is. Only facts have been told here. Nothing slanderous.

As for the SE comp and clutch basket ? It's worth a try, but George said it wasn't it. He said the vibration was to prominent to be the comp or clutch.

 

I removed my SE comp for a vibration. SE comps 'fret' and make rust inside of the shafts. They are junk.

 

That red is rust caused by the wear one can see on the inner ID. I went back to stock comp... starter bang and all. I question a 'mechanic' that feels bigger rods cannot be balanced when that is done every day... Falicon is is Florida and R&R is in New England. Try either of them to look at the crank. I am confident that YOUR crank is fine... I contacted John, too, by the way... and from what he says... he built your second crank identical to mine as far as balance factor, etc. Ummmmmmmmmmmmm.... that should be good to go, because it truly is in mine. I also have the S&S 106 kit. I had S&S bore my kit out and install .010+ pistons.... it is now a 107. This was done, because the kit arrived to me, with +- .008 in piston to wall clearances and rattled. S&S fixed me right up on that!!!

Something else one may want to check is end play on the Timken set up. Too loose and a vibration condition my exist.

The key to the puzzle is this: right when fixed.... YOU stated the bike was perfect. Now it is not. That crank did NOT shift. If it was, indeed, perfect, after the rebuild then it's the comp or clutch basket. Or SOMETHING else.

 

wurk, i had the same crap with my se comp after a 1000miles. sprocet and cam were worn (i think it's called galling or galding?) and discolored or rusting. i too, reinstllaed the stocker. are you using auto trans. fluid? anyways, if i'm going to have to run a piece of crap comp, i'll run the one that isn't sending debris through my new clutch. not to mention the stock comp is waayy lighter.
c-cat