Crank Problems
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
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Got my compensator ordered today. It's going to be interesting to see what happens. I was talking with George today and He told me back in the day with the evo he remembered a guy advocating nothing but a pulley on the crank and it caused an incredible amount of vibration. Not sure how the SE comp could cause such vibration, but then again I couldn't believe how much vibration came from the loose exhaust bolt either. I really don't care as long as the vibration goes away. Will keep you posted. Should be around Wednesday of next week
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Tourer
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NOTE - We found when you transfer from the factory compensator to the SE compensator that they also change your rotor .
After they changed mine I started having electrical charging issues. It seem the new system wasn't charging like the factory setup. After talking with a rep this morning , we found that there has been some problems with it.
I wonder why in the hell don't MOCO tell you of the problems they have with products ? This cost their customer base a lot of hardship and money.
After they changed mine I started having electrical charging issues. It seem the new system wasn't charging like the factory setup. After talking with a rep this morning , we found that there has been some problems with it.
I wonder why in the hell don't MOCO tell you of the problems they have with products ? This cost their customer base a lot of hardship and money.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
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From: Ashland Ohio
I have the SE comp and haven't worried about it till now. Seems fine, no problem. Engine is 107. Fatboy so B engine.
Maybe lucky.
Did notice a little slower reving, but about then went to a Woods 400-6 cam so moot issue.
Woods lifters helped a lot with noise and maybe vibration. All noise went away.
Running Red Line Primary, had got to worrying awhile back, about needing better gear oil in there.
I will check this out, I am sure, one day.
On my list now.
Maybe lucky.
Did notice a little slower reving, but about then went to a Woods 400-6 cam so moot issue.
Woods lifters helped a lot with noise and maybe vibration. All noise went away.
Running Red Line Primary, had got to worrying awhile back, about needing better gear oil in there.
I will check this out, I am sure, one day.
On my list now.
And............. this may NOT be the OP's problem, but since it surely CAN be a problem... it is one the OP needs to look at.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
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From: Norfolk, VA
That red is rust caused by the wear one can see on the inner ID. I went back to stock comp... starter bang and all. I question a 'mechanic' that feels bigger rods cannot be balanced when that is done every day... Falicon is is Florida and R&R is in New England. Try either of them to look at the crank. I am confident that YOUR crank is fine... I contacted John, too, by the way... and from what he says... he built your second crank identical to mine as far as balance factor, etc. Ummmmmmmmmmmmm.... that should be good to go, because it truly is in mine. I also have the S&S 106 kit. I had S&S bore my kit out and install .010+ pistons.... it is now a 107. This was done, because the kit arrived to me, with +- .008 in piston to wall clearances and rattled. S&S fixed me right up on that!!!
Something else one may want to check is end play on the Timken set up. Too loose and a vibration condition my exist.
The key to the puzzle is this: right when fixed.... YOU stated the bike was perfect. Now it is not. That crank did NOT shift. If it was, indeed, perfect, after the rebuild then it's the comp or clutch basket. Or SOMETHING else.
Something else one may want to check is end play on the Timken set up. Too loose and a vibration condition my exist.
The key to the puzzle is this: right when fixed.... YOU stated the bike was perfect. Now it is not. That crank did NOT shift. If it was, indeed, perfect, after the rebuild then it's the comp or clutch basket. Or SOMETHING else.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Ashland Ohio
Its not. If you look inside of the bore... you can see missing material. My *** lube is blue-green anyways
AND... this site sux for engine work. On the other sites............ I am NOT alone on removing the SE Comp for the exact same reason. There are builders who no longer like nor recommend this comp. Once together... there's no way for any of the lube from the inner primary to lube the sliding shaft. Couple members have drilled pilot holes. I am awaiting results. If THAT works. I might revisit the thing.
AND... this site sux for engine work. On the other sites............ I am NOT alone on removing the SE Comp for the exact same reason. There are builders who no longer like nor recommend this comp. Once together... there's no way for any of the lube from the inner primary to lube the sliding shaft. Couple members have drilled pilot holes. I am awaiting results. If THAT works. I might revisit the thing.
Last edited by wurk_truk; Oct 11, 2010 at 08:01 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 293
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From: usa
Its not. If you look inside of the bore... you can see missing material. My *** lube is blue-green anyways
AND... this site sux for engine work. On the other sites............ I am NOT alone on removing the SE Comp for the exact same reason. There are builders who no longer like nor recommend this comp. Once together... there's no way for any of the lube from the inner primary to lube the sliding shaft. Couple members have drilled pilot holes. I am awaiting results. If THAT works. I might revisit the thing.
AND... this site sux for engine work. On the other sites............ I am NOT alone on removing the SE Comp for the exact same reason. There are builders who no longer like nor recommend this comp. Once together... there's no way for any of the lube from the inner primary to lube the sliding shaft. Couple members have drilled pilot holes. I am awaiting results. If THAT works. I might revisit the thing.
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Tourer
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i agree on everything! look on the inside of the sprocket where the cam rides, it's worn, look at the cam, its worn on wurk truk's pics. i had the same wear and red rust colored discoloration on mine after a 1000 miles. not to mention had to take my new clutch and basket apart and clean everthing from the ffnnn debris. save your time, money, and most of all aggrevation, period!!!!!!!!! my neighbor is an industrial engineer of the highest caliber, and he saw whats going on with my se comp, and he said it was made from crap materials with no quality control! certain aspects of it he likes, however hd failed to follow through with quality materails and build specs, along with the inside of it running dry. believe it or not, the stocker although lacking, is still going to cause less problems over the long haul.
Your right about the factory crank. I wasn't impressed with the SE comp at all. And I can't for the life of me figure why Harley didn't install a gear driven cam rather than that chain crap.
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