103 upgrade disappointing
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 170
Likes: 51
From: Clearwater, FL
Well I just got back from Doc's. I'll post the dyno charts tomorrow. Doc found the clutch was slipping. He also found the air cleaner was holding the engine back. So first thing he installed a heavy duty clutch spring, then a new SE air cleaner. Then he began the dyno tune. The before numbers were 95/79 (tq/HP). After the tune it was 106/93.torque is in the mid 90s by 2500 rpm and peaks by 3500. The seat of the pants dyno is awsome. The heavier clutch spring may take some getting used to. I might look into an after market device that relieves the pulling force. Bottom line, Doc is great and well worth the trip and cost.
Really good to hear it worked out well, especially the mid 90s TQ by 2500 rpms to compensate for the tall gearing.
Looking forward to seeing the dyno sheet.
Good thing I said it was the tune all along - lol. And that is a good looking scoot....
Last edited by BlackBastard; Feb 2, 2011 at 07:06 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Great news and good numbers. We can all relax now things are sorted! I haven't fitted mine yet, but I just bought a Harley Diamondback clutch cable which promises to reduce clutch lever effort. Take a long look before installing any of the other devices, as they reduce travel at the clutch end and make adjustment critical. I have a Clutchlite in my bike and it is difficult to get it to release fully.
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: orlando, fl
Dyno Chart
As promised, here's the dyno chart. These numbers are big improvements to my original chart after the 103 build. They may not be up to FuelMoto's numbers but I'm very happy with the end result. Based on watching Doc do the tune, I think a lot of the improvement came from changing the ignition tables, not just the V/E tables. Now all I need is something to reduce the clutch lever pressure. Any suggestions?
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
As promised, here's the dyno chart. These numbers are big improvements to my original chart after the 103 build. They may not be up to FuelMoto's numbers but I'm very happy with the end result. Based on watching Doc do the tune, I think a lot of the improvement came from changing the ignition tables, not just the V/E tables. Now all I need is something to reduce the clutch lever pressure. Any suggestions?
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 892
Likes: 8
From: Central Florida
Very good outcome Marty. I would be happy with those numbers. I know where I will be going for a tune when I pull the trigger on the upgrades you did. For now I am happy with my upgrades. Once the top end gets worn out I will be doing the Fuel Moto package. Can't justify changing out the top end when it is still working well. Plus, my bike is already quick enough to get me in trouble if I'm not careful....
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,926
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From: NE Ohio
As promised, here's the dyno chart. These numbers are big improvements to my original chart after the 103 build. They may not be up to FuelMoto's numbers but I'm very happy with the end result. Based on watching Doc do the tune, I think a lot of the improvement came from changing the ignition tables, not just the V/E tables. Now all I need is something to reduce the clutch lever pressure. Any suggestions?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,780
Likes: 2,609
From: san antonio
Well I just got back from Doc's. I'll post the dyno charts tomorrow. Doc found the clutch was slipping. He also found the air cleaner was holding the engine back. So first thing he installed a heavy duty clutch spring, then a new SE air cleaner. Then he began the dyno tune. The before numbers were 95/79 (tq/HP). After the tune it was 106/93.torque is in the mid 90s by 2500 rpm and peaks by 3500. The seat of the pants dyno is awsome. The heavier clutch spring may take some getting used to. I might look into an after market device that relieves the pulling force. Bottom line, Doc is great and well worth the trip and cost.
All's well that ends well; your build is right where it should be. 
There is a reduced effort spring and ball/ramp kit but I believe it is for the earlier models and is standard equipment on the later models. Msocko3 posted a link to the AIM VPC which is a little pricey but a great add on. Eventually, the SE spring will not hold and the clutch will start to slip again; by the time you notice it, you may have to replace discs. The VPC is a clutch "hat" and installs through the derby cover. You will have to revert to the old o-ring seal at the derby cover or cut the center out of the new derby cover gaskets to install the VPC. I run VPCs on my '05 95" FXSTD and my '02 107" FLHT and make the pull with two fingers. I dropped the Deuce a while back at a water crossing about 300 miles from home; broke the clutch lever; left about 1". I would not have been able to operate the stock clutch but with the VPC I was able to operate the clutch and limped home. The poll, with the SE spring is a two finger pull; you can toss the SE spring and make the pull even lighter. Msocko compares the pull to stock but I would say it is a 25%-35% lighter pull than stock. A VPC will solve your pull issue.
Last edited by djl; Feb 3, 2011 at 11:55 AM.