95” Piston selection question???
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From: san antonio
1931, I put the frt. cyl. together & torqued head to Cometic specs, 42 fp. Then when I took the rear off, I saw the o-ring on the case dowel which I didn't know was there on the front. (It stuck to the bottom of the frt. cyl and I didn't see it). Dumb A$$ mistake but glad I saw it before getting it all back together. So I will not be able to re-use the MLS gasket? Crap, that's another $30 & 1 week wasted since I gotta order that. Looks like I'll at least have 1 spare gasket since they come in pairs.
The OEM .045" gasket compresses, down to .040"-.042" so your calcs could be a bit off if you use the OEM gasket but not enough to make any difference.
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From: Owasso, Oklahoma
I should have no issues with valve to piston clearance. The valves are 1.94/1.61, heads are not milled, SE-203 .510 lift cam, KB pistons only have 6.7cc dome & valve reliefs are 2" diam. Do I have to check it?
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Valve to piston clearance
How much Valve to piston clearance should this engine have? I got a piece of .100 solder down the spark plug hole since the head was already torqued. Installed rockers & adjusting pushrods to chek clearance. djl recommended .065 solder but I only had .100, stopped till I get an answer.
Thanks,
Roy
Thanks,
Roy
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I use modeling clay but play-doh will work. Never tried solder but Im sure it will work also. Big Boyz website shows pictures and an article on how its done.. Good on ya for taking the time to do things right.
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From: san antonio
How much Valve to piston clearance should this engine have? I got a piece of .100 solder down the spark plug hole since the head was already torqued. Installed rockers & adjusting pushrods to chek clearance. djl recommended .065 solder but I only had .100, stopped till I get an answer.Thanks,
Roy
Roy
I use .060" solder because that is the minimum and, in most cases, you have that clearance so the solder never gets compressed. I would be concerned about using the .100" solder fearing that for some reason, the solder would be compressed and possibley break off a piece and the head would have to come off. But that's just my **** retentive nature; might not be an issue.
I can't believe you can't find .060" solder; it's such a common size. Radio Shak and Home Depot both carry it.
You probably don't have an issue but better safe than sorry and I would check even if I had to pull a head but that's your call.
Tourer
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From: USA
Just curious, are there no aftermarket ignition modules for a carbed TC that let you tweak the timing curve?
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From: Emory,TX
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From: san antonio
Daytona Twin Tec and Crane both make a programmable ignition for carbed Twin Cams. I am guessing based general knowledged but would guess the DTT is the more commonly used hardware. While these units are programmable, there are pre-programmed ignition curves and, usually, one of those will work just fine. But, if you have the cables and hardware (separate purchase) you can tweak.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
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From: Owasso, Oklahoma
All cleances checked good & A few questions as I wrap this thing up. I Just need to get the exhaust, carb & fuel tank back on & ready to fire it up. It was jetted very good before. With the same cams but now big bore, higher comp. & prted heads what can I expect? I wonder how much the jetting will change? Also what's the recommended breakin? Just a couple of heat cycles?
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