SE Compensator? Replace primary adjuster?
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 837
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
SE Compensator? Replace primary adjuster?
OK, I am dialing in all the parts I need for the 96" to 103" conversion. Looks like I am going to have to remove the primary cover to deal with the clutch (either conversion or heavy duty spring), and I also noticed today that I have an oil leak where the shifter shaft comes through the cover.
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
OK, I am dialing in all the parts I need for the 96" to 103" conversion. Looks like I am going to have to remove the primary cover to deal with the clutch (either conversion or heavy duty spring), and I also noticed today that I have an oil leak where the shifter shaft comes through the cover.
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
Last edited by soft 02; Dec 28, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
OK, I am dialing in all the parts I need for the 96" to 103" conversion. Looks like I am going to have to remove the primary cover to deal with the clutch (either conversion or heavy duty spring), and I also noticed today that I have an oil leak where the shifter shaft comes through the cover.
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
So, since I have to remove the cover, I was wondering what else to do while I am in there.
Is the SE compensator worth $200 (discounted)? Should I replace the primary chain tensioner (bike has over 21K miles on it)? Should I replace the transmission pulley with a 32T ---> 30T? What else is inside of that area?
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 837
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
I think most people agree the gearing is too tall, hence the desire for the 30T transmission pulley, but I wonder if just the 66 nub rear pulley would get the job done. From above, that is 2.88:1. If I stick with the stock '07 68 nub pulley and swap out the transmission pulley for the 30T, that would give me 46/34 * 66/30 = 2.98:1 final drive ratio. Is that not tall enough?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
So, the 2.98 final drive is lower than the 2.79 or 2.88 which means the torque mulitplier of the final drive is increased; your highway rpms at cruise will increase a bit and you will be able to engage 6th gear earlier. By comparison, the earlier 5 speeds had a final gear ratio of 3.15; cruise rpms at 70mph are about 3000rpms.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 837
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
We need to agree on nomenclature. In gear head lingo, the 2.79 final drive is "taller" than the 2.98 final drive. It's bass ackwards, the higher the ratio; the "lower" the gearing and the lower the ratio, the "taller", or higher, the gearing.
So, the 2.98 final drive is lower than the 2.79 or 2.88 which means the torque mulitplier of the final drive is increased; your highway rpms at cruise will increase a bit and you will be able to engage 6th gear earlier. By comparison, the earlier 5 speeds had a final gear ratio of 3.15; cruise rpms at 70mph are about 3000rpms.
So, the 2.98 final drive is lower than the 2.79 or 2.88 which means the torque mulitplier of the final drive is increased; your highway rpms at cruise will increase a bit and you will be able to engage 6th gear earlier. By comparison, the earlier 5 speeds had a final gear ratio of 3.15; cruise rpms at 70mph are about 3000rpms.
The lower the number the "taller" the gearing.
So, my current final drive = 2.79, and 6th gear is kind of marginal.
66 --> 68 nub rear pulley = 2.88, and 6th should be useful earlier as you said.
32T --> 30T = 2.98 (with 66 rear pulley), and 6th should be useful even earlier.
So, what do think is a good final drive ratio number?
Back to the original question about what to do once I remove the primary cover, I think we agreed leave the compensator alone, fix the oil leak at the shifter shaft, leave the tensioner alone, deal with the clutch (either VPC or heavier spring).
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
Right, the higher the number the more the engine turns relative to the rear wheel.
The lower the number the "taller" the gearing.
So, my current final drive = 2.79, and 6th gear is kind of marginal.
66 --> 68 nub rear pulley = 2.88, and 6th should be useful earlier as you said.
32T --> 30T = 2.98 (with 66 rear pulley), and 6th should be useful even earlier.
So, what do think is a good final drive ratio number?
Back to the original question about what to do once I remove the primary cover, I think we agreed leave the compensator alone, fix the oil leak at the shifter shaft, leave the tensioner alone, deal with the clutch (either VPC or heavier spring).
The lower the number the "taller" the gearing.
So, my current final drive = 2.79, and 6th gear is kind of marginal.
66 --> 68 nub rear pulley = 2.88, and 6th should be useful earlier as you said.
32T --> 30T = 2.98 (with 66 rear pulley), and 6th should be useful even earlier.
So, what do think is a good final drive ratio number?
Back to the original question about what to do once I remove the primary cover, I think we agreed leave the compensator alone, fix the oil leak at the shifter shaft, leave the tensioner alone, deal with the clutch (either VPC or heavier spring).
Yeah, leave the compensator alone, fix the oil leak at the shifter shaft, leave the tensioner alone, deal with the clutch. If you have the coin, the VPC is a better option; the SE spring did not hold my 95" build, started slipping after about 2500 miles and the clutch pull was stiffer. The VPC will hold and the clutch pull is reduced to two fingers. I dropped the Deuce going into a corner, lowside, and broke most of the clutch lever off. It would have been real tough getting home with a 1" clutch lever.
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 444
Likes: 2
From: South Central Kentucky
If you go to the 30 tooth pulley you are removing the 6th gear.
It will be like being in 5th when you are actually in 6th.
The SE comp makes a world of difference in the noises when starting the engine.
I am using the rear sportster 68 tooth pulley and it helps a lot with the high gearing.
Barney
It will be like being in 5th when you are actually in 6th.
The SE comp makes a world of difference in the noises when starting the engine.
I am using the rear sportster 68 tooth pulley and it helps a lot with the high gearing.
Barney
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 837
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
If you go to the 30 tooth pulley you are removing the 6th gear.
It will be like being in 5th when you are actually in 6th.
The SE comp makes a world of difference in the noises when starting the engine.
I am using the rear sportster 68 tooth pulley and it helps a lot with the high gearing.
Barney
It will be like being in 5th when you are actually in 6th.
The SE comp makes a world of difference in the noises when starting the engine.
I am using the rear sportster 68 tooth pulley and it helps a lot with the high gearing.
Barney