did i pick the wrong cam???
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 285
Likes: 4
I have the same issue finding a good local tuner (different cam set up). After spending more on dyno time then what I felt was worth I added auto tune to my PCV. In my opinion that was money better spent.
I think the power vision will let you add AT and then with some help from Fuel Moto you should be able to get a decent tune.
As mentioned by others, adjust your riding style and move the rpms up a little, 2k is low, try 2.5 and see how it behaves. See if you can live with it then and if not your options are further engine mods or a cam swap.
I think the power vision will let you add AT and then with some help from Fuel Moto you should be able to get a decent tune.
As mentioned by others, adjust your riding style and move the rpms up a little, 2k is low, try 2.5 and see how it behaves. See if you can live with it then and if not your options are further engine mods or a cam swap.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
Late to the thread but will try to consolidate the main points made in the previous responses. Wrong cam? for your application, absolutely. Any cam with a 42* intake close in an other wise stock 96" will be a disappointment. Actually, it's a step backwards; your corrected and cranking compression is a shade lower than it was with the OEM cams. Now, what to do about it; as I see it you have three basic opitons.
1. As has been suggeted, replace the 777 cams with another with an earlier intake close. IMHO, the Andrews 48 is the best all around replacement. Others have been suggested, so you have those to consider as well.
2. Keep the 777 cams, pull your heads and have chamber volume reduced to 80cc and use a .030" head gasket when reassembling. Porting is optional at this point but if you have the $$; a budget street port would also help. Install compression releases.
3. Keep the 777 cams, pull your heads for street port (or not), bore to 103"/107" (I like 103" because I like the H-D cast pistons), reassemble with .030" head gasket. Install compression releases.
Get away from the maps; get a proper tune.
1. As has been suggeted, replace the 777 cams with another with an earlier intake close. IMHO, the Andrews 48 is the best all around replacement. Others have been suggested, so you have those to consider as well.
2. Keep the 777 cams, pull your heads and have chamber volume reduced to 80cc and use a .030" head gasket when reassembling. Porting is optional at this point but if you have the $$; a budget street port would also help. Install compression releases.
3. Keep the 777 cams, pull your heads for street port (or not), bore to 103"/107" (I like 103" because I like the H-D cast pistons), reassemble with .030" head gasket. Install compression releases.
Get away from the maps; get a proper tune.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 838
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
Scott - 10.4:1 static compression? That would result in a corrected compression of 9.5:1 ! Isn't that way too high? How is that going to run on 91 Octane pump gas? I have been reading - and other guys have been saying - 9.2:1 max corrected.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 80
From: new york
Research is everything, 777 to much cam for stock 96", more head(don't we wish) and compression will help, but you are over cammed. The 48 or 255 is for you, or learn to ride at 3,000 and on the pipe. A good tune will help but not cure.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 312
From: Out of Commiefornia!
Big bore moves the curve to the left... also gives the opportunity to set the compression exactly where it needs to be. Lastly, as the adage says, no replacement for displacement - kills three birds with one stone.
Roger
Roger
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
Scott can speak for himself but 9.3 and/or 190psi is my rule of thumb for daily driver or touring bike. If I ever built a bar hopper, 9.6 and or 200+psi (and compression releases) would be tops for me.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Phila, Pa
Give these guys a call -> http://www.jdscycleworks.com/
They have an excellent reputation for tuning a bike.
They have an excellent reputation for tuning a bike.
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[quote=harley_jeff;9597132]Scott - 10.4:1 static compression? That would result in a corrected compression of 9.5:1 ! Isn't that way too high? How is that going to run on 91 Octane pump gas? I have been reading - and other guys have been saying - 9.2:1 max corrected.[/quote
How then, do the OE, CVO 110"ers run, with that 255 cam, cranking at 205-207 psi, from the Moco??
Scott
How then, do the OE, CVO 110"ers run, with that 255 cam, cranking at 205-207 psi, from the Moco??
Scott
Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Fbfletch
First off, the butt dyno is normally a good indicator if you have a problem going on with your performance. However, I think you should take the bike somewhere and get a baseline dyno pull with A/F ratio so you can see exactly what's going and precisely over what RPM range your problem lies.
I had a very similar problem with my own bike. It had a huge dip in the torque curve between 2000 and 2500 RPM. I too thought I had the wrong cams. However, after taking the bike to a professional tuner, the dip in the torque curve is gone and the bike pulls hard throughout the entire RPM range.
I had a very similar problem with my own bike. It had a huge dip in the torque curve between 2000 and 2500 RPM. I too thought I had the wrong cams. However, after taking the bike to a professional tuner, the dip in the torque curve is gone and the bike pulls hard throughout the entire RPM range.
Hey FBFLETCH. I too will be getting some work done by Jim Gutches here in a few weeks. I wanted to ask you what you thought of his head work and such. Shoot me an Email back at stuffum07@yahoo.com thanks. and Sorry to go so offtopic here. That interests me when i saw that he had headwork by Jim Gutches. Sorry I am fairly new to this forum and do not know how to pm people.