I have a 2003 Dyna Wideglide T88.with a carb. I have SEl lslip ons.I want to install an Arlen Ness "Big Sucker" AC. I have read that I need to rejet the Carb. My service says that my bike has a 45 slow jet, and a 190 main jet. What kind of rejeting would I need to do. Or do I have to rejet this configueration at all?
Thanks [sm=confused06.gif]

 

Howdy,

A dyno run with the Air/Fuel Ratio chart will give you your answer. Cost me $45.00.

I have a 2003 FXD Super Glide with the following:

88 C.I.
stock heads and intake
Dnojetted CV
SE Stage 1 Air Cleaner
SuperTrapp SuperMegs 2:1 exhaust
S&S Cam Gear Drive
Andrews TW-37G cams

After my dyno run I took the bike home and installed one step larger slow jet and main jet. This was after the DynoJet kit had been installed. I now have a 50 Slow Jet and a 205 Main. If I had not put the bike on a dyno I probably would not have changed the setup as the bike ran OK and plugs looked OK.

Performance after the 50 and 205 were installed is AWESOME!! Nolowend lack of kick and she screams till hitting the rev limiter.I will not have a chance to dyno the bike again till spring.

I highly recommend a dyno run.

Dyno Chart prior to carb jetting changes.


[IMG]local://upfiles/20717/DD193905F5CC41FB914372A2103CB74C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Buttman, what kind of gas mileage do you get with that thing?

 

Good place to start is first pulling the plug and adjusting the fuel mixture screw.If not sure, the common TC sweet spot is about 2 1/4 turns out. Most agree on one size up on slow jet to a 46. Harley only makes a 48 as next size up but others available. The 190 main jet is more then enough with stock heads and cam.The mid circuit which is the needle can be bumped a little by either going with a more aggressive profile aftermarket needle (gets thinner sooner which lets more fuel by it) or raising the needle up by using a small washer (all kinds of info on this procedure out there).
If Dyno time is not available or as cheap as BM can get it done for, the good ole chop and plug method will help you get it dialed in. Every bike is a little different and where you live altitude, density ect. come in to play but this will get you real close, then fine tune it.

 

Hey Murph,

I live here in the North and have not had a chance to ride the bike for any long duration. I only went for a quick run after the re-jetting to see how the bike performed.

To be honest, with the performance parts I have on the bike, andthe wayshe screams, I do not care if the fuel mileage drops a bit.

With the 48 and 200 jets in place I can say that I consistently beat my buddy's gas mileageon his Honda Spirit 1100. And that was during a trip to the "Dragon" with varied terrain. I was also gassing my bike much more than my buddy who was a little leary of the road.[sm=gears.gif]


I am not advising dropping in 50's and 205's to anyone, by the way. I am only stating that prior to the dyno run I thought my bike was fine, using the plug and play method, and thata dyno run is the definitive answer to the question of running lean or rich.

 

To some of us it is "smiles to a gallon" not "miles to a gallon"

 

The time tested way is to install the 88/89 Sportster 1200 idle jet needle. It's a little smaller in diameter, thus increasing your flow at lower speeds. That should be all that's needed with your mods, and it won't affect your fuel mileage much if at all.

 

You might get away with your existing setup. Put the filter on, buy some new spark plugs, research here on how to read plugs, and then go for a good hard ride, preferably on an uphill slope. Get off the road fast (but safe) and shut-down the bike right away. Pull your plugs and read. Then decide if you need to rejet.

Z