I haven't read thru all of your posts here. Very 'wordy' to say the least, but I AM like you... if a 'book' needs to be written to convey an idea, then...

Anyways... Boy, would I NOT trust that mechanic of yours. ALL twin cams come with bluing on the big ends of the rods. It IS how they are made due to the heat treating process.

On an 08... maybe 60mph was pushing it a bit, but I doubt it REALLY hurt anything. The only thing I can think of that really gets hurt from lugging a Twin Cam is one CAN, not DOES, hurt the crank itself by twisting it. Doesn't appear to have been your problem at all. Anymore, due to cam and engine choices, I find that I always like to keep things around 2600 to 3000 rpms. Except in town, where 2000 is OK by me.

Your tune is screwy is most likely the issue, whether by design or mishap. That ping killed it is my surmise. It could have been nothing more than a very small intake leak.... to make it go overly lean and ping.

Run Forrest Run as far and as fast from that 'mechanic' as you can. Folks like Scotty sees this, too... but in his position he has to be diplomatic about it and mentions the bill... all the while BOTH of us caught that 'blue big end' thing from the get go, I'm sure. Me... I'm a Dick Head (Richard Head), and call em like I sees them.

 

After reading your entire story, I'm convinced that ddetonation is the cause of the trouble. Not by bad gas or lack of octane boosters, but a **** poor tune.
Take the bike to a competent tuner, have them install a real tuner (Power Commander/ TTS). I wouldn't trust a V&H Fuelpack to tune my lawnmower!
Get in touch with DYNOTUNES,ask for Bruce Roy try 866-554-DYNO. I've watched him tune my 124", and about 30 others, none ping or rattle, all work as intended when he's done.
I'd also recommend finding a real mechanic!! JM2C FWIW Fastrider124

 

I don't know what the 08 manual says but I do know what it says for a 2012 103....downshift from sixth to fith at a mimimum of 60mph, so while you might cruise at 60 in sixth your pushing the limits and certainly wouldn't want to be pulling inclines or heavy head winds constantly.

The only certified CVO mechanic at my local dealer told me that the result of cruising at those rpms was egging of the cylinder...but then thats just one mechanics take.

As far as fuel mileage goes the one time I accurately checked it over several tanks of fuel I dropped about 4 mpg running 70-75 mph in fifth, but then I had a 30mph headwind coming down the indian nation turnpike in Oklahoma, which was why I was in fifth to begin with.

Just my 2c and good luck

 

I have to admit I didn't read all 6 pages but 6th gear at 60 on my 2011 Limited (103 CID) would handle it fine but I would go into 5th gear on the hills. My 08 Roadking (96 CID) 6th gear was useless at 60 & never went into it until 70 mph & went into 5th on the hills. I installed the SE-255 cams & that was a definite improvement but still use 5th gear more often than 6th. The 08's are geared to TALL.
When it's time to replace my final drive belt, the sprockets are coming off & I'm re-gearing my bike. I too have had my crank scissor & luckily it was replaced under my Harley ESP. While I rarely used 6th gear, I too bought used & don't know how the bike was run the first 3200 miles. My crank scissored at I believe 6500 miles. Gas is cheap at the end of the day! I run it at higher RPMs now not knowing the exact cause of my crank failure. Best of luck....

 

just to add to the mix

I still think it was detonation that chipped away at the piston, caused by oem Map, possible fuel, and slight lugging,
I was out yesterday and find on mine it will go all day on back roads 80kms in 5th [my top gear on my 05] at 2000rpm range [i think] it was a nice day and didnt write it down.
As for the bluing on the rods I also learned something new. Maybe you should get the old crank tested for truing [if not to expensive] and then decide if you need to find a different mechanic.

As for the tuner, I am not to familiar with the V&H but i like my Thunder Max. I talked to Brice and he said he could still tweak it better on the Dyno. My 2Cents

 

Thanks a lot everyone - haven't been back in awhile as I was relying on the apparently unreliable email notifications! It seemed odd no answers over several days on this and a couple other threads I'd subscribed to so simply came to the site as I used to. It was like Christmas with all the answers/comments.

I should clarify that I only added the V&H FuelPack AFTER the damage had been done, as part of the upgrade to SE Stage II 103 ci given I had to replace one 96 ci stock piston/cylinder anyway, kind of a 'make lemonade out of lemons' scenario. I went with it because that's all this shop ever installs, and knowing I needed SOMETHING to add fuel to the OEM map, figured best go with what they've reportedly had wild success with vs something they're not familiar with. Based on what I was hearing here at the time, I asked if they'd install a TMax or PowerCommander, but they'd already ordered the V&H and had no experience with them. No dyno tune was done as it's a small custom bike shop that has no dyno. V&H has different programming for different Harley SE Stage kits and that along with the Harley Stage II timing download (?) was all the 'tuning' performed. Regardless, none of that had anything to do with the failure. The bike was bone stock. If I hear pinging with the V&H I'll get a TMax or PowerCommander, likely with a dyno tune even though the one link above mentions they're a waste of money (though he strikes me as a kook). TMax may be best for me since I understand they don't need a dyno tune, which I probably don't need given I'm not really after max performance. I just want the engine to be reliable for the long haul, without being too close to the edge but with a healthy increase over stock. Hence the SE Stage II with CVO mufflers from Harley vs some huge 110 or larger fine tuned monster. I'm shocked that leaving the bike stock doesn't give me reliability however.....on a touring bike that I'd think would be good for 100-200,000 km at least. Gold Wings and BMW's, say what you will, do 300,000 km+.

I'm glad I didn't just wing the old crank in the garbage, so still have it and will get it checked out. I'll also mention this blueing thing to the mechanic/owner to see if the blueing was more severe than normal. I'll post pics of it and piston here eventually. When I swing the conn rods around it seems very smooth and otherwise fine.

The primary drive case cracking may however be symptomatic of the crank failing as someone else mentioned, perhaps due to my startup in the spring where the top end bit the big one after previous damage, and I momentarily heard those horrible noises I attributed to a huge 1700 cc twin running on one cylinder.

 

Harley, in their infinite wisdom(BS), and their desparate attempt to make the new Harley's EMISSION COMPLIANT, have geared all the new bikes far too tall for practical riding.
The Flh used to be geared 3.37/1 overall to pull the 800 or so pounds around. Now, they are as low as 2.76. This IMO, wasn't done to make the bike better, but HD's vain attempt to make it pass emissions. That along with fueling so lean has caused a maze of problems, both in reliability and drivability. The cheapened drive line, compensator, and machining tolerances only aggravate these conditions.
The best things you could ever do for your bike is regearing to about 3.15/1 and getting a proper tune that delivers the "RIGHT" AFR for a Harley!! These engine will never survive at 14.6/1 fuel ratios that EMISSIONS dictate. I've seen AFR as high as 16/1 on the Dyno on a factory engine, WOW!! Take it to Bruce, get him to set it up, it will be $$ well spent!! FWIW Fastrider124

 

I have an 11 superglide with 18000 kms. I find 100 kmh is one of those awkward speeds where 5 th seems too low and 6 th seems too high. As someone else said I deal with it on the fly. Hilly terrain, windy, or traffic 5th, flat, calm, no traffic 6th. I have also noted then when I in 6th I usually end up creeping up to 110.

 

Personally I think if I were in your shoes I wouldn't hesitate to get a dyno-tune after buying a PC...A tune would be money well spent IMO.

 

I like your style LastHalf, leaving no detail unturned. All in all, it would seem 6th gear is virtually redundant, especially on my Fatboy, I can hardly stay on the thing over 120kmh, even my size 13's take some keeping on the floorboards and I have to crank myself forward against the wind to get at the clutch! Used to a BMW with screen though.