Here is a link to my video with the sound. Its a 99 harley davidson FXDX with a zippers top end (107 I think) because of the manual compression release. Anyways I am a harley noob so when I bought it the dealer said it was normal. I took it to the dealer in my home town and they said it wasnt normal. So of course the dealer I bought it is five hours away and even though they sold it to me like this that i would likely have to pay for the work. So im pretty pissed and now have a dilemma. I was wondering if you guys could help me out with a possible diagnosis.

Like I said, starts when it gets warm, comes mainly from the front cylinder, is loudest at 2000 to 3500 (approx.) rpm, and the HD dealer here said possibly Pushrod adjustment, or lifters because it was sitting at the dealer for a long time and it could "collapse" I guess.

Thanks guys Any help would be appreciated,
Skipper
CPL USMC
Swashbucklers AMC

 

Sounds like a pushrod is not adjuste properly; it would take about an hour to check and readjust if necessary. Could be collapsed lifter but you won't know until you are sure the pushrod isn't the problem. The roughness in the idle is also an indictor that a valve is not operating propoerly. That should smooth out when the pushrod is properly adjusted.

EDIT: It is definintely not ping; the engine is not under any load. Not sure I agree that you have been sold a "piece of junk" but you do very well may have a project that was unfinished. You know the old "when someone gives you lemons; make lemonade" thing. Get the tech that looked at the bike and told you it could be pushrod/lifter to have a look and adjust if necessary; the bike will run better once that is cleared up. Once that is fixed, do a compression and leakdown test to check on the condition of the top end. Then get a tuner that knows how to work with carbed bikes (assume it is carbed?) and have him do a couple of pulls to see how it does.

 

That is not a ping unless some one has modified it with a way to high compression ratio. I agree sounds like lifters. However unless you know how to work on it your self no telling. Someone sold you a piece of junk someone had not a clue what they were doing and gave up and got rid of their mess. Really surprised a dealer would sell something like this.

 

Yeah I am clueless as how they would. But me being the noob to v-twin how the heck was I supposed to know. Especially when the dealer says its good. Beware of crossroads HD.

 

If the lifters were 'collapsed', thru would be un-collapsed after it ran for a minute. Sounds like you need to readjust your pushrods. Do that before you get too nervous.

 

If it was just an adjustment issue it should knock when cold also. I suspect lifter problem. After oil warns up and thins out the lifter can't hold pressure.

 

Sorry I missed its ok at first and starts on warm up. If it is not the lifter due to pushrod adjustment (if it has adjustable pushrods--never have thought much of adjustable pushrod but I realize they are a necessity for extreme mods but not sure then why you want that for a street bike) Now that the sermon is over if is not the lifter I bet someone has ran it hot and seized the piston and caused it to scuff (aluminum peels off and literal welds to cylinder) When it warms up the front is too tight but the rear is still driving it. That tap is the rod needle bearing play. Seen it before twice. Runs fine and sounds OK at first and as the temperature rises it just starts to tap getting louder as the temperature rises. Jack rear up when it's cold. Remove the spark plugs and turning rear wheel by hand get it up to 5 or 6 highest gear. Turn rear tire and notice how tight engine is. Do it a LOT. Screw plugs back in snug, get it to neutral and start and run it till it's hot and banging. Recheck as above and see if it's tighter. Its just going to be really tight in one area if its damaged. Probably will show up in compression test or leak down test as a low cylinder but not always. Lifters do not hold pressure. All they do is take up the play so there is zero play. In a solid lifter engine like my Honda and Toyota cars and my Yamaha motorcycle they require a little play (average about .010) (4 sheet of paper) to allow for heat expansion so a valve is not held open. In a Harley the lifter takes up all this play but the valve spring easily overrides it to insure valve closes. If they leak down there is trash in the check valve or they are completely frozen. They will freeze if left sitting for a long long time. Be sure to let us know on here what you find out.

 

Or, just have a compression and leakdown test done; that will tell you the condition of the top end. But first, check pushrod adjustment; start with the obvious and basic easy stuff and move on to the more difficult (and expensive) if the easy stuff doesn't solve the problem.

 

Ok guys thanks for the feedback. Im going to try out the pushrod adjustment first because I know that is a common issue and easy fix. It does knock like that when its cold now that i really listen (only lightly though) only it gets ridiculous when warm. So I will give it a try, new to it so I will get the help and try posting a video on my channel of the repair and the resulting sound.

 

Update: Well I have been gone for quite a while being TAD in the Marines is no fun when im so far away from the bike. But I will be back with her soon and am going to try adjusting the Pushrods with some assistance from a local greese monkey and see how it goes. Just a quick question is the adjustment the same for any Harley Configuration?

So far I gather:
I need a lift so I have one, bike needs to be in high gear, I need to rotate the tire to make sure the one im working with is completely lowered (or is it highest point its in my notes at home anyways) but what do I adjust it to? Till they are tight? Till they spin freely but not bouncing up and down? And how do I check to know they are in the correct position after the adjustment?

Again appreciate the help guys!!!

CANES