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Claying for clearance

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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Default Claying for clearance

I am getting close to completing my build of an EVO 106, and I need to check valve clearance at tdc. I will lay down a strip of clay in the valve relief pockets. Is doing just 1 cylinder an acceptable procedure? I had an 'old friend' tell me to leave 1 head off, and just do the other. It may save a little time, but I wonder if it is really worth it.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 07:17 AM
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I have never built an engine that needed me to check those clearances, but I will check both cylinders if I ever do! Hope that helps a little....
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Andrews cams, their website that has a PDF you can download that explains the process clearly. Believe it is andrewsproducts.com
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 12:05 AM
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there is another way to do it if you want-----------someone makes a test spring where you replace your valve springs and use this spring set the engine up and then take a dial indicator and mash it until it hits and then check on the dial indicator how much clearance you have------------------------you have to be real careful with the clay when you peel it off to check clearance as it will change thick ness and lie to you.I used the spring on mine and if I can remebr right it was made by Crane
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 06:10 AM
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An alternative to clay is solder rod, which is soft and will readily compress, but keep it's thickness.

NRHS has an article on their website on how to use clay.
 

Last edited by grbrown; Nov 17, 2012 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Added Link.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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Thanks guys. I've done clay before, and use a razor blade to slice the squish area in half, and use a caliper to measure. If I hadn't already assembled the heads, the soft spring method seems pretty handy. But my question was... do both cylinders or just one, since the lift and clearance should be aboot the same from front to rear. I have lots of time to do both, but my friend said to save time and do one. I will do both, since that is the way I have done it in the past.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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I would do both---------------rod lengths as well as pistons can varie unless you really went all out on the build.I have also seen some head variances as well.A good engine builder could probably tell you how close your setup might be
 
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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I have replaced the crank pin and rods with the same S&S stroker set that I had, but I am changing the piston compression height very slightly. I am going to start with the same Crane Hi Roller cam, and lifters that was in there before my tear down. I want to put a redshift 647 in, a little later, and I really need to know what my clearances are. Heads are good to go and springs are good. I will also put in new lifters, with limiters, when and if I do the cam change. Compression will be near 11:1. Heads are at 80cc stroke is 4.625 And bore is 3.812. Mikuni 45 and Rineharts for the in and outs. 1995 FLHR with a skinny little 140 tire.
I love doing this stuff.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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what the heck do the rdshift now lol
 
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:48 AM
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I thought about doing it now, but I want to do a nice slow break in and make sure everything is right before I jump into another HL cam. I don't want to be chasing too many different things. My pistons are on hold right now, from J&E, due to their move to Ohio from So Cal. And the hurricane that knocked out power for them. I went down to Huntington Beach, where the office still is located and said WTF? These have been on order for 2 months! They only apologized profusely, and assured me it would be soon.
OK, so the bike sits with its studs sticking up, and covered. So in the mean time, I did some of the DIY mods I have seen here. LED brake/tail light, I fit a loud air horn behind the stock 'cow bell' cover, made a custom 'puke box' for any blow-by, and cleaned the **** out of places I couldn't reach when the motor was in. Still have parts clustered in one area of the garage.
Waiting sucks.
 
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