Take a look at the third pic in the second post. Looks like exhaust has been blowing down on top of the fins on the front side of the front cylinder, right below where the exhaust port is.

How many miles on the cam chain tensioners? The one you can see looks pretty good. Also, what type engine oil have you been using? Hopefully, I'll be doing a cam change later this year, these pictures are great, they really help understand how things go together. Keep them coming.

 

Neckball you are right didn't notice that. Good EYE!! 400000 MILES on tenshioners and inside one looks the same. Was suprised my self! Checked them last winter and looked the same. SE SYN3 in all holes. Ring gap on old rings spec. Can't complain. Dragon slayer my self Sept 10&11 4 full runs! Will post again Fri night. Toolbox had pistons relieved all ready. According to S&S lobs will clear on 570. Yours are bigger cams but I AM CHECKING ANYWAY!! All ready know about cam cover. The rocker box bottom for springs really concerning me. Never done a build b4 and no clue where to relieve or even check this seen pics for most things but never any good ones for boxes. Any help appreciated. Most work w/o clearancing on my build but do not like to take chances. Inclosed pic of pistons relieved for SE PERFORMANCE HEADS AND BB FLAT TOPS CAST.

 

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Well today wasn't as good as hoped. Started out installing new SE cylinder studs. IMO They are a peace of $#@!. 1st 2 went in by hand. Stockers have a shoulder on studs and then you torque to finnal spec. SE have depth you leave ont of block. 1st 2 would waller around in threads. 3ED on after 2 or 3 rounds got so tight that I was getting on it with a 10 inch ratchet and afraid pulling threads. Backed it out and inserted the stocker and threaded in perfect. No harm done. Needless to say going back with stockers. Next couldn't find small screen that came out when I removed cam plate. Put it in nice safe place and forgot where I put it. Every thing else bag and tag but didn't want to crush it. 1 HR later found it in block where it was supposed to go. OK Cam plate and oil pump went on smooth but after putting on outter gears I have .0075 lash loose and 0 lash tight. Ordered undersize pinion gear from Fog Hollow 2day as they have it in stock ready to ship. Pics show plug w/ o ring to remove be for baking cam plate, Oil pressure spring hole, inner bearing installer, and that peskey screen w/ o ring. Also pinion run out and gear lask check.

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Very nice documentation or steps and progress!

 

Just a couple of observations, not to be critical, but there could be some issues with the accuracy of the dial indicator readings judging by the last pic. The magnetic base is a long way from the point of measurement, the indicator itself is nearly fully extended on its mounts, and the file taped to the frame for the base to attach to all have the potential for some movement, and the possibility of inaccurate readings. Finally, for the most accurate reading for gear backlash, which I believe you are showing, the tip of the indicator guage needs to be as close as possible to 90 degrees to the gear tooth you are reading from to be the most accurate. Just my .02!

 

I agree with all above comments on dial indicator. The pic is just a mock up to show basic concept of how to do run out. The file does have movement I'M sure but I borrowed the stand and indicater from a friend who was nice enough to lend it to me. Mag. is flat and will not stay to frame so impervised. I positioned and proprely loaded indicator b4 doing actual checking. In my preticular case I didn't have to worrie about exact reading because even with the "slop" I still was well with in spec on run out with plate on and off with crank. Out side gears was a no brainer. Even with slop you could bearly see indicator move. Not a pro wrench!! This is my 1st build and just trying to help show some things that confused me when I started putting this thing togeather. The bearing installer pic is mock up also as new bearings are all ready in. Notic the red thumb screws are not run all the way down. ha.. Feel free to coment pro or con. On any thing you see wrong.

 

Started going back up with build yesterday.Put the stock studs back in with a drop of blue locktight as hate SE. They just wallered around in holes. You can see a comparison of studs. Stockers have shoulder.Next I installed lifters in holes with oil hole toward engine and flats toward frount and back of bike after pumping lifters full of oil with a common squirt oil can and then soaking sumerged in oil for 45 min.Installed anti rototational pin, new tippet cover gasket and torquing cover to spec. Much easer to do b4 ctlinders are in way.Ringed piston and installed with wrist pin on rod and tryed to install cylinder down on it. Got it in cylinder but managed to crimp a oiler ring.$#%&^!! Called nearest HD which is 75 miles away for new rings and they have to order them 1 wk. Called next closest 100 miles and they had in stock. 200 miles round trip at 2:00 pm Sat not worth it as I have to work graveyards Mon and Tue so had them ship it. Undersize pinion gear not hear till Tue any way. Reringed piston with other set of rings and inserted piston in jug while on table. Worked perfict. Piston including skirt has to be inside jug to clear studs but just hold jug after in position and have partner tap piston down with rubber coated hammer handle till wrist pin hole is cleared bottom of jug. Install wristpin clip on one side of piston b4 ringing. My wrist pin pushed in by hand, install other clip and lower jug into place. I clayed cam cover and think I had enough clearance but didn't want to take chances so took alittle off boss to be sure. Heads with .030 went on fine. Had to clearance bottom rocker box covers where valve springs came close to corner bosses. Made sure I clearanced good with Drimal and then centered box before I torqued bolts by placing a strip of carboard like on beer carton between both springs and bosses and torqing to spec then removing carboard. Will post pic of that when I do other cylinder. You can see in pic where I relieved boxes. Now the part I didn't like. I rebuilt oil seperator with new umbrella valve gaskets and demist pad and installed rocker boxes. There are 4 bolts pluse the 2 that hold seperator. Torque spec for 4 box bolts spec is 18-22 foot/lbs. Torqued all down to 20 foot but one just didn't feel "right". Know what I mean? It didn't keep loading up as I uniformally as I approched 20 foot. I got 20 on it but made another 1/3 round and didn't get any more.STOPPED!! Did it with a foot lb beam and doubled checked with inch lb S&K Clicker, holding honest 20 foot but didnt like it. HD manual says that I should have 2 lingths of bolts but all 4 on both boxes are 2 1/2x 5/16ers. Ran a 3 1/2 inch all threaded bolt in hole in question and have another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of thread in hole so going to get a 2 3/4 inch grade 8 bolt and catch another 3 or 4 threads in head and retorque to 19 foot locktighting with blue. Never found any alum on threads when I removed it but just didn't get warm fuzzy with this bolt and I don't like to do any thing half #%$.Will start again Wends and update. Hope this helps some one. As I said I'm no expert and if some one learns something from my success or mistake than even a mistake on my part will not be complete loss! I'm pointing at bolt in question.

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