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I sure hope the newer cranks are trued better then the older ones as I have seen some of them new out of the box with up to .006 out at the bearing journals. As we all know the stock ballasting is figured in the casting of the flywheels and how many castings weight the same. I just think the you can end up with a better crank if you have it balanced, trued, welded and better plugged. All so I thought the roller bearing gives a lot of flex and was a good case of cranks twisting.
If I build a motor that is not raced I give the same warranty on the motor unless it is really radical.
I sure hope the newer cranks are trued better then the older ones as I have seen some of them new out of the box with up to .006 out at the bearing journals. As we all know the stock ballasting is figured in the casting of the flywheels and how many castings weight the same. I just think the you can end up with a better crank if you have it balanced, trued, welded and better plugged. All so I thought the roller bearing gives a lot of flex and was a good case of cranks twisting.
Perhaps I misunderstand what you are saying but I think you have it backwards. Through 2006, crank runout for warranty replacement was .003"; 2007 and up that spec changed to .012". There seems to be many more crank issues with the 2007 and up cranks than the early cranks. It just isn't logical to think that the early cranks were not trued as well as the later cranks and historical data does not support that position.
Of course you can end up with a better crank if it is T/B/W and/or plugged but that's not what the thread is about. The OP is in a pickle and looking for options but I don't believe rebuilding his motor, including a new T/B/W crank, on his nickle, with no warranty is a viable option for the OP.
Perhaps I misunderstand what you are saying but I think you have it backwards. Through 2006, crank runout for warranty replacement was .003"; 2007 and up that spec changed to .012". There seems to be many more crank issues with the 2007 and up cranks than the early cranks. It just isn't logical to think that the early cranks were not trued as well as the later cranks and historical data does not support that position.
Of course you can end up with a better crank if it is T/B/W and/or plugged but that's not what the thread is about. The OP is in a pickle and looking for options but I don't believe rebuilding his motor, including a new T/B/W crank, on his nickle, with no warranty is a viable option for the OP.
I agree but a good shop should give him a warranty if not I would not deal with them and end up with a better motor for the same or less price.
I agree but a good shop should give him a warranty if not I would not deal with them and end up with a better motor for the same or less price.
I hear ya but if the OP goes to a shop, he is back in the $5000 range which is what I think he is trying to avoid. The reman program at least gives him the option of financing and spreading out the pain. I think the OP is just trying to figure out the cheapest way to get back in the saddle.
you have lots of options if the run-out claim is true - from - crate motors from S&S - for a about $400 than what was quoted from reman - to finding an 02 motor with timkens and building on that platform.
The exact qoute for a 88 reman " with the SE Stage 2 95 kit w/ 203 cams was 4700 installed. They just werent sure that I would be able to get my anniversary stamped block back. I figured for that price I could build a decent 103 or better motor. I am just looking at all my options.... If I am able to use my block then I will order the stroker crank and send it to dark horse to have it trued welded and plugged. I will send the block out to have the timken upgrade as well. I am getting 20% off parts and labor which makes the labor rate very very attractive. I am looking into pricing a 103 crank with the stage 2 kit at least.
Do you think i would be better off sending my own heads out for work ? or buying a stage kit.
The exact qoute for a 88 reman " with the SE Stage 2 95 kit w/ 203 cams was 4700 installed. They just werent sure that I would be able to get my anniversary stamped block back. I figured for that price I could build a decent 103 or better motor. I am just looking at all my options.... If I am able to use my block then I will order the stroker crank and send it to dark horse to have it trued welded and plugged. I will send the block out to have the timken upgrade as well. I am getting 20% off parts and labor which makes the labor rate very very attractive. I am looking into pricing a 103 crank with the stage 2 kit at least.
Do you think i would be better off sending my own heads out for work ? or buying a stage kit.
Pull the lower unit and send it complete to Darkhorse or R&R the Timken conversion and the crank work. They will inspect everything and replace anything else that needs replacing. IIRC, you are looking at about $1500, plus back and forth shipping. You don't want the standard 4.375" crank with the cheezy rods; you want the H beam rods. They will need piston choice to balance.
Send your heads out for work but you need to select cams first.
If I were you, I would put together a build plan and price it all out just to know where you are headed. Certainly a better choice than the reman route, just get out the check book.
a build plan is the problem! i have no clue which way to go... send out my stuff buy new stuff from a kit.. whic cams for low end torque blah blah blah...
For what a new HD cranks cost with the rods that most crank builders do not like with the funky wrist pin bushings and sending them to Dark Horse you could buy a S&S crank the same stroke made out of better material.
a build plan is the problem! i have no clue which way to go... send out my stuff buy new stuff from a kit.. whic cams for low end torque blah blah blah...
You have no need to come up with a build plan. We have HDF sponsors who are expert engine tuners who you can talk with over what you want from your bike and they will advise. There are also good tuning shops around the country and you may have one close to your home. They will supply all the parts and ensure everything matches up. If you are not an engine builder and tuner, ask one for professional advice! They will create a build plan for you.
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