bike is 07 dyna wide glide with 14,300 miles. i stopped for gas after riding for about 45 mins and shut the bike off long enough to swipe the card and pump. when i tried to start it the engine would turn over but no potato. i walked it to the side of the parking lot and had waited a few minutes while having a cig and debating if i should call someone or not when i gave it another shot and it took and ran fine.

i got to my girls dads place to meet up with the family and shut it off and went about my day. i figured the issue the first time was just because it was warm with needed a minute to cool. well 2 hours go by and we all get loaded and ready to head home and i go to start it and still cranks over but no potato... i took the seat off and checked some fuses, made sure plug wires were pushed on.. found no issue. tried it again since it was about how long i had to wait last time and it fired right up.


as far as i know motor wise everythings stock except the chrome and the pipe.

i dont really remember hearing the fuel pump either time now that i think about it but i also just started wearing a full face helmet that makes it hard to hear.

 

Mine has always done that. But I have always just tried a second time and it starts right up. Did you just try once? I ride the same bike as you do.

 

i tried several times right away holding the start button for 2-3 seconds each and quit worried i'd drain the battery then waited 5 mins each time and it fired up after holding the start button for about a second and a half

no i think yours might be better than mine lol from the looks of the pics you got the black one with the silver on the tank that i love, mines the black and red one.

could this have anything to do with turning the bike off with the **** rather than the switch on the bars sometimes?

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I always use the **** and not the handlebar switch. But after responding to your first post I started wondering if it might have something to do with a sticky IAC. (idle air control) Just thinking.

 

im looking at my clymer manual and see a diagram with the IAC but i dont recognize where on the bike that diagram is. im guessing from what i do see that its somewhere near the air cleaner, between the 2 cyl's?

 

Trying to translate symptom.
I guess the bike cranks without issue but does not start.
After waiting the bike then starts and runs fine.
Since this happened after a gas fill-up i would rule out vapor lock or gas cap issue.
Consider review of gas tank interior for debris, loose liner etc.
Then check for :
A very small hose in the fuel line with-in the tank (accordian/flex looking hose) could give similar symptom.The system takes a greater amount of time to develop pressure due to the loss of pressure cause by small hose.
Another possibility:
The crank position sensor could be an issue also if you get a lot of cranking and nothing but then wait and when you pres again it immediately cranks..If you have a power commander some of the older bikes required a solid really good signal from the crank position sensor..
I would check the hose first.

 

The IAC is a solenoid step motor controlled passage around butterfly in throttle body. When the pintle valve open its the size of a pointed pencil and open up a large hole. This not your problem and if by chance it is the actual seat area, you can check that by simple removing air filter. Peer upward into top area of throttle body and key the switch on. You will see the pintle pull out all the way and come back to the high speed idle area depending on outside temperature and if engine is cold. Key it off and it jumps back all way in cutting off all idle air so you do not get run on with the high idle speeds ECM controlled bikes need so they do not stall. The ECM knows were it's at and if it really is bad it will tell you with an engine code on the dash. If it's off over +/-200RPM the code will set P0505 If it really is sticking someone has already stuck a carb/throttle body cleaner solution spray up in hole and drove crud up pass o-ring in solenoid and once it dries it jams and trashes it. From my experience at 40K that passage even with Harley venting the engine into the air box even that excess oil does not get into that passage sine it's at top of throttle body. (can get on butterfly and stick it but then what you need to do is spray a small amount on a clean lent free cloth and open throttle and reach in an wipe seat area and inside back face carefully till you no longer see crud. Never ever adjust it for idle.

The IAC is a solenoid step motor controlled passage around butterfly in throttle body. When the pintle valve open its the size of a pointed pencil and open up a large hole. This not your problem and if by chance it is the actual seat area, you can check that by simple removing air filter. Peer upward into top area of throttle body and key the switch on. You will see the pintle pull out all the way and come back to the high speed idle area depending on outside temperature and if engine is cold. Key it off and it jumps back all way in cutting off all idle air so you do not get run on with the high idle speeds ECM controlled bikes need so they do not stall. The ECM knows were it's at and if it really is bad it will tell you with an engine code on the dash. If it's off over +/-200RPM the code will set P0505 If it really is sticking someone has already stuck a carb/throttle body cleaner solution spray up in hole and drove crud up pass o-ring in solenoid and once it dries it jams and trashes it. From my experience at 40K that passage even with Harley venting the engine into the air box even that excess oil does not get into that passage sine it's at top of throttle body. (can get on butterfly and stick it but then what you need to do is spray a small amount on a clean lent free cloth and open throttle and reach in an wipe seat area and inside back face carefully till you no longer see crud. Never ever adjust it for idle.


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thanks ill get to checking asap.

another theory i had was that since both times this happened i had the full face helmet on and couldn't hear that maybe i didn't give the pump/efi long enough to do its thing before i hit the start button. I've been out several times since posting and have waited to put the helmet on till after i got it started and it started right every time.

ill do more ermmmm "TESTING" here in 2hrs when the kiddos go with their gram. i might even leave the coat at home.

 

It's possible that you didn't hear your fuel pump because it may have not worked at that time. You might have a bad fuel pump relay. They are cheap and you can get them at an auto parts store, but first check yours to make sure the connectors are clean and tight, try some dielectric grease. Also, the internal fuel lines in the tank are know to get pinholes from rubbing against the inside of the tank and loss of fuel pressure can really make it hard to start.

 

UPDATE.....

took it out today and did not have the same issue. had other issues though. motor kept dying in 6th gear on the highway at various rpm's. each time i downshifted to 5th and dumped the clutch and it came back to life untill i would try cruising in 6th again for a while

i tried doing the speedo code lookup and got these codes

p0261- front injector open/low efi
po263- rear injector open/low efi
p1003- system relay contacts open

does this sound like more of the same issue or different issue ? where do i start?

also the manual says i need a "breakout box" and a fuel injector test lamp to try to troubleshoot this is there anyway around that?