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got an '07 ultra with a stock 96. Am putting in s&s 585 ez start cams, magnum lifters, kb 909c forged pistons 10.5:1(+.010) compression,se pro taper pushrods,s&s dual exhaust with vance and hines mufflers, and s&s cnc ported cylinder heads 87cc. Looking for some input on this setup, would appreciate any and all.
Take it down a little farther and install a hot forge plugged and welded set of flywheels. Or you can wait until your torque monster scissors your old set then tear it down.
'07 was a bad year for crank failures; at least it seems that there were more reported than in later years. '07 was the first year that crank manufacture was outsourced to an off shore supplier and warranty runout spec was changed from .003" to .012". JMHO but I believe the MoCo changed the runout spec to protect them from the quality "debugging" that is often associated with outsourcing manufacture of any component to a new supplier.
If you have not checked crank runout, you should check it now so you have a baseline to compare with in, say 5K miles. If the crank shifts a bit post motor build, you will know you have issues and they can be addressed before bad juju happens. t's a crap shoot and you may never have an issue but having a runout baseline to compare with in the future could save you a lot of heartache.
Build plan looks OK but I would get the dome volume of those pistons and run the compression calcs with the head gasket thickness and intake close for those cams to check corrected CR and CCP. Good luck!
Plugged and welded flywheel asm is cheap insurance at less than $500 delivered to your door. My '03 went from running OK to a pinion shaft with 0.065" runout. I know this is from the added torque and HP and do not want to repeat the exercise as if you have the power you will use it and if you use to much well the stock crank pn is going to scissor your wheels.
I agree with the welded & pinned lower end.see if your pistons are 10.5-1 with a 85cc chamber,verify to see where you at,`cause with the 585`s,you really don't want to be any lower than 10.5-1
I wouldn't waste the time and money on the crank work unless you already plan to split the cases. If so then I'd bore the cases and go for a 110, 113, or 117". The stock crank should be fine for your relatively mild build unless you plan to beat the crap out of it.
I wouldn't waste the time and money on the crank work unless you already plan to split the cases. If so then I'd bore the cases and go for a 110, 113, or 117". The stock crank should be fine for your relatively mild build unless you plan to beat the crap out of it.
No. He did the right move.
'07 model years were/are nortorious for the wheel halves to slip on the crank pin.
Scott
you guys are right. After pulling the top half off, I found the my flywheeels had already shifted. Am splitting the cases and putting in some jims flywheels and having them welded and going to 106. Thanks.
Last edited by LouBit01; Nov 21, 2013 at 08:49 PM.
Reason: not enough info on what i was doing.
Am splitting the cases and putting in some jims flywheels and having them welded and going to 106. Thanks.
Why are you stopping at 106"? 107" would be the logical choice even if you didn't split the cases. Seems that splitting the cases really opens the options up to 110 thru 117".
+1 on the 117" configuration;just buy 4.125" pistons instead of 3.875" and cylinders to fit. The cost of the cylinders and case bore is marginal considering the total cost of the build and, IMHO, worth it. I built an all bore 107" for my '02 FLHT a couple of years back and I love the way the bike runs, very strong. But I do regret not spending the money for a 4.375 crank instead of "Hobanizing" my 4" crank. I don't know if I will make it through another season without pulling the lower unit and upgrading. The only thing keeping from is how strong and reliable the 107" motor has been. Kind of hard to justify tearing down a perfectly healthy and sweet running motor.
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