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A- never check the oil cold accept to make sure there is some oil. Get her warmed up and returning to the tank, then check.
B- In your case of way over filling, with a friend you can tilt the bike over to the right and the oil will come out of the oil tank cap opening. Just stand there with a catch can and get some of it out. Works well on the side of the road with a soda bottle with the top cut off, as the catch can. Ask me how I know..........................
C- No manual in front of me, but 3 to 3.5 quarts is the usual number for Harleys, 5 is at least 1 quart too much.
Still puking after a couple days sitting.
My plan:
- back off to 3+ quarts and see what happens
- try to burnish the check valve seat AGAIN
- buy a 'new' pump. New ones are from $169 to $600+. Any good?
Yesterday, I measured 2.5 quarts in the tank when the dipstick said Danger.
The engine was warm, so I'm pretty sure there wasn't too much in the gear case.
My previous plan to run with 3 quarts seems too risky.
I added 1 quart and took note of the new dipstick level - so, 3.5 in the tank and a bit in the case.
Today, the level is down, so I'm thinking I might see some puking.
As I mentioned in a previous post, new pumps go from $169 to $600+.
Being old, retired and CHEAP, no way I will spring for the $600 option.
Has anybody bought one they are happy with?
its not the pump per say its the breather system - it has a oil feed pump on the cam cover //// and a return oil pump with the breather gear on the bottom of the engine under the distributor - piston seal is the issue right now - until it has a real good seal your going to have a big baking sheet under it forever maybe - some get better < 2 different piston rings and pistons were used early and late the late do a better job but both will leak oil all the time after running and sitting when your not watching it
in a 700 to a1000 miles i would re look at it - no way changing anything on a oil loss machine would i look to replace something - for oil being spit out of it - can you slow it down - not really some things are possible but every drop that enters the primary ends up leaking out on to the ground via the rear wheel fender your left arm - kind of thing - its a leaker get use to it or get rid of it - no other choice
I can see the oil level drop in the tank a few hours after a ride.
Everything is new right now.
Fresh overbore with new pistons and the later style rings
New valves and guides
I'm sure there is a lot of blow-by going on
I changed the oil after just 5 miles - very dirty, but no big pieces of metal!
I am just tooling around on my street right now - waiting on registration
Mine isn't dumping since I lowered the oil level.
I know it leaks into the case when sitting, but apparently not enough to puke it out.
I can see the level come up after a few minutes at idle, as the scavenge pump does it's job.
We have removed the feed pump it has 3 ***** and springs - you could lap the seats - hose it out install all new ***** and springs the gasket and rotater and stick it back on
when its cold again unless it decides to coat the drive way
John,
I worked on the pump when I rebuilt the engine.
I made my own tool to shape the ball seats, but maybe I should have bought one.
As long as I'm not puking a bunch I can live with it.
I don't ride it far enough to worry about running out of oil.
Will picture up what i have found works well but its a finesse as a little too much can crack the ***** seat - had a few damaged - so i taught my self the limit
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