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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 12:00 PM
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Revvin’ Kevin's Avatar
Revvin’ Kevin
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Default Question about manual advance

on my late 45 solo:

(I actually posted this on another thread, but it may have gotten lost in the shuffle.)

I’d like to get my manual advance working. I’m asking you experienced guys her, as I have not yet received my spare parts manual.

The twist grip stuff is all there, as is the distributor (weong terminology, perhaps).

The PO told me it would be necessary to take off the front cylinder to mound the proper parts, and since this engine has just been rebuilt, I’m not certain I want to do this now.

All I know is that the earlier engines used a bracket that the cable attaches to, and I believe all that would be needed there would be to pull out the dizzy and install that bracket.

I’m not sure what is needed on the later ones, and I’m not sure the PO gave me correct info (though he does seem to know what he is doing, and he did a stellar job on so much on my bike).

Truth is, the bike starts fine with the dizzy in a fixed position, so it may be a matter of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”


That said, I do like to have stuff working the way it should.

I have added some pics of what I have.

Side note:

I had also considered adding an auto advacne (which I added the link for.

I’m not really a huge fan of this made in Taiwan item, but I am interested in hearing what you guys think, especially if you have or had been running it.

Thing is, that change doesn’t necessarily have to be permanent, I suppose.

Thanks in advance (pun intended), and I appreciate the knowledge base on this page.





Auto advance from 45 Restorations Co.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 01:57 PM
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Hi so for starters you do NOT need to remove the cylinder, you will need to remove the front cylinder rear nut on the valve side to mount the timer cable clamp underneath it. The cable should come out of the left side of the handlebars and come down the left side under the tank and between the cylinders.

I do not recommend a auto advance as I haven't had good experience with them, but others say thay are fine.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cp45mec
Hi so for starters you do NOT need to remove the cylinder, you will need to remove the front cylinder rear nut on the valve side to mount the timer cable clamp underneath it. The cable should come out of the left side of the handlebars and come down the left side under the tank and between the cylinders.

I do not recommend a auto advance as I haven't had good experience with them, but others say thay are fine.
Thank you, and I apologize for the double post on this.

I am in agreement in that I don’t want any more Taiwan crap on my bike than the re-pop fenders I have.

Besides, the charm really is in that manny advance, IMHO.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 02:05 PM
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No problem I can add pictures of how my cable is run later today.

random question, was that motor rebuilt at ressurection cycle?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cp45mec
No problem I can add pictures of how my cable is run later today.

random question, was that motor rebuilt at ressurection cycle?
That would be greatly appreciated.

The lower end and trans were built by an older gentleman in OH who apparently runs a small outfit these days. I can’t remember his name right now, but perhaps I’ll shoot the PO a message later regarding it.

The PO installed the top end.

I took a grand tour of his shop (he works on cars to pay the bills, and does some of the older H-D’s and Indians owned by locals. His personal interests are pre-war Indians, and old ******.

Huge selling point was how nice he did my bike, and how nice all his Indians were. He’s got 3 including a I-4, which was a sight to see.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 02:37 PM
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the pics.

Yours is a WLA (nice ride, BTW).

That bracket set-up appears to be the early style, up until ’46, and I don’t believe mine is supposed to have that.

I do however have the hole in the tab (though it lays horizontally as opposed to vertically like yours, as depicted in my picture) and the hole doesn’t go all the way thru.

Sure seems like I just need thst clamp and the cable, though.

Thanks again for the info. Hoping my parts manual gets here soon so i can confirm my particular era’s set-up, but it looks cut and dry.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 04:50 PM
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Yes your's appears to be a 47up set up so the bracket under the tappet block you don't need your stop will be internal on the timer base.
The bracket you need is to hold the cable in place.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 04:55 PM
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Perfect, and thanks again!
 
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 06:14 AM
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All previous info provided is spot on, picture of the same setup on my 1946 for reference. The cable bracket is mandatory, the other guide bracket that mounts to the tappet block is nice but not needed. I ran for years without one, just added it when I had the motor hopped up and it was all apart anyway.


 
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