Can't Start Flathead, Need Help!
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Soak it and Blow it out!
blowing out the carb doesnt always clean it.. you have to trace where each port goes.spray carb cleaner through and look for it to come out the other side..a lot of times you have to run a wire through the passages..for the idle circuits unravel a piece of electrical wire. use one of the tiny strands to clear the jet out.
To do it right, you need to disassemble the carb, soak it for a day and then blowing it out.
What happens, when left for a long time is that the left over gas in the carb will crystalize and turn into a "varnish finish" and plug up opening.
Always drain and blow out the carb before long hibernation.
You need a solvent (...of your choice) to soak it in, I think I used paint thinner...
NOTE: depending on what solvent you are going to use, keep it away from any o-ring's, seals, etc...they do not need to be soaking anyway.
Derek
Novice
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
From: Ireland
Hi NickNico,
i recently rebuilt a 1943 WLC and agree with previous posters, i think its the carb (i'd put a bet on it), i assume when u say the plugs are working that you have them removed from the heads but attached to the HT lead and can "see" the spark when the plug is against the engine.
When i rebuilt mine (motor,tranny and Carb) i ran into a few problems, including flames thru the carb
,i have a linkert model M88 , i soaked it in carb cleaner for a few days.the bowl was overfilling so i swapped the cork float for a "rubber ducky" that helped but must make sure it matches the measurements in the manual,the float is offset on purpose and will "hang" in the bowl if it is not set correctly.
also my M88 ran a fixed jet so the high speed needle was screwed all the way in all the time ,to set the low speed needle -screw it all the way in (not too tight ) then back it out 2 full turns -try starting it -the mixture will be fat! -adjust low speed , turn the needle in (clockwise) one notch at a time (spring loaded detents you can feel the clicks) until it gets so lean the motor misses; back needle out 7 to 10 clicks, or until the motor runs without missing with the throttle closed, and spark advanced. Not sure what model carb you have, I presume you are using OEM needles- i dont use aftermarket
i start mine first kick-3 kicks to prime,with choke closed,fully advanced and then adjust choke to nearly fully open / ist notch- off she goes.
Keep at it and youll get it.
Hope this helps.
i recently rebuilt a 1943 WLC and agree with previous posters, i think its the carb (i'd put a bet on it), i assume when u say the plugs are working that you have them removed from the heads but attached to the HT lead and can "see" the spark when the plug is against the engine.
When i rebuilt mine (motor,tranny and Carb) i ran into a few problems, including flames thru the carb
,i have a linkert model M88 , i soaked it in carb cleaner for a few days.the bowl was overfilling so i swapped the cork float for a "rubber ducky" that helped but must make sure it matches the measurements in the manual,the float is offset on purpose and will "hang" in the bowl if it is not set correctly. also my M88 ran a fixed jet so the high speed needle was screwed all the way in all the time ,to set the low speed needle -screw it all the way in (not too tight ) then back it out 2 full turns -try starting it -the mixture will be fat! -adjust low speed , turn the needle in (clockwise) one notch at a time (spring loaded detents you can feel the clicks) until it gets so lean the motor misses; back needle out 7 to 10 clicks, or until the motor runs without missing with the throttle closed, and spark advanced. Not sure what model carb you have, I presume you are using OEM needles- i dont use aftermarket
i start mine first kick-3 kicks to prime,with choke closed,fully advanced and then adjust choke to nearly fully open / ist notch- off she goes.
Keep at it and youll get it.
Hope this helps.
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