wheel bearing install
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Nor Cal
"1641-2rs" Bearing size= 1.00 ID x 2.00 OD x 9/16"(.5625)wide. Don't forget to acquire a correct size internal spacer that your missing before you start pressing bearings in.
Last edited by multihdrdr; Jan 1, 2014 at 11:03 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Orange County
Where do I get one?
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,175
Likes: 2,483
From: Nor Cal
Well it depends on the length you're going need. if the length needed is the same or shorter than the longest spacer/sleeve harley has, then you can get it there. if you need one longer, then you'll have to pick up some raw stock & cut it to size.
I'll try to help you get through this if you would like, but my first question is "do you have the capabilities and resources to make this happen?" If the answer is "yes" or "i think so", then we'll proceed until either the task is accomplished or we're at an impasse. Also you're going have to measure to the third decimal place, e.g., 1.99x and 2.04x (using your previous examples). Can you be measure to "x"? Additionally, this could take some time as i have some time contraints.
1st question: Do you have 2 wheels (front & rear) and are you trying to put those wheels on that 2001 Road King?
I'll try to help you get through this if you would like, but my first question is "do you have the capabilities and resources to make this happen?" If the answer is "yes" or "i think so", then we'll proceed until either the task is accomplished or we're at an impasse. Also you're going have to measure to the third decimal place, e.g., 1.99x and 2.04x (using your previous examples). Can you be measure to "x"? Additionally, this could take some time as i have some time contraints.
1st question: Do you have 2 wheels (front & rear) and are you trying to put those wheels on that 2001 Road King?
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,667
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
Well it depends on the length you're going need. if the length needed is the same or shorter than the longest spacer/sleeve harley has, then you can get it there. if you need one longer, then you'll have to pick up some raw stock & cut it to size.
I'll try to help you get through this if you would like, but my first question is "do you have the capabilities and resources to make this happen?" If the answer is "yes" or "i think so", then we'll proceed until either the task is accomplished or we're at an impasse. Also you're going have to measure to the third decimal place, e.g., 1.99x and 2.04x (using your previous examples). Can you be measure to "x"? Additionally, this could take some time as i have some time contraints.
1st question: Do you have 2 wheels (front & rear) and are you trying to put those wheels on that 2001 Road King?
I'll try to help you get through this if you would like, but my first question is "do you have the capabilities and resources to make this happen?" If the answer is "yes" or "i think so", then we'll proceed until either the task is accomplished or we're at an impasse. Also you're going have to measure to the third decimal place, e.g., 1.99x and 2.04x (using your previous examples). Can you be measure to "x"? Additionally, this could take some time as i have some time contraints.
1st question: Do you have 2 wheels (front & rear) and are you trying to put those wheels on that 2001 Road King?
Yes, I am planning on putting these wheels on the 2001 Road King. I have both front and rear. Front is 1 axle, rear is ž axle.
The depth of the bearing race, without the bearing installed is 0.698; therefore, if I am using a 0.562 bearing, my spacer would be 0.136 wide. Correct? Seems pretty narrow for a spacer do I really need one?
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From: Nor Cal
OK i like what i'm hearing. Now...the internal spacer fits inside the hub of the wheel and "spaces" the inner races of the two bearings. And YES you need it (unless you like to replace bearings often or aren't going to ride your bike anymore).
Go out and look at the front of your bike. Does it look like you have any .136 spacers? NO! Use your bike as a reference! Some people don't have that convenience.
Start looking for a good 1638-2rs bearing. You'll need that for the rear.
That .698 ref...is that on the Right Side (valve stem side) of the wheel or the Left (opposite of valve stem)?
Get that bearing out. Measure that side also.
ok I'm out...I"ll check later
Go out and look at the front of your bike. Does it look like you have any .136 spacers? NO! Use your bike as a reference! Some people don't have that convenience.
Start looking for a good 1638-2rs bearing. You'll need that for the rear.
That .698 ref...is that on the Right Side (valve stem side) of the wheel or the Left (opposite of valve stem)?
Get that bearing out. Measure that side also.
ok I'm out...I"ll check later
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
multihdrdr - sounds like you're really knowledgeable about this, how about checking what I've put here in case I've had a senior moment and got something backwards.
Just trying to clarify the inner spacer issue for you.
From my first post: " I suggest coating the bore with anti-seize before installing the bearing, and make sure the inner races contact the long center spacer; otherwise you could get a bad side load on the bearing that will ruin it."
When you torque the axle nut, it's squeezing against the inner races; they need to be supported so the ***** aren't crushed against the sides of the races, and that's what that spacer is for. I don't seem to have a pic of it from my Harleys, but have this one from a Yamaha dirt bike, same principle. You can see the long tube between the bearings (don't worry about two bearings on one side, Harleys are just one per side); properly sized, the bearing inner races will just touch it when everything is tightened down, without putting any side loads on the bearings. Hopefully your wheel will match a Harley standard spacer, but best to measure everything carefully, and determine, as multihdrdr said, the spacer length needed down to .xxx (thousandth's) of an inch. Should be able to do that since you have access to a machine shop. When you install the bearings, get one side in all the way, and turn the bearing to get a feel for how free it is. Put the spacer in, and then the second bearing - now see if the bearings turn as freely as that first check, should be no more resistance or your spacer is too long and the ***** are being pushed against the sides of the races. Bearings free, feel the spacer, must not be any side to side movement and may even resist moving off center position - you might have to shift it to get the axle in. If the spacer is loose, it's either not long enough or one of the bearings isn't fully seated - you can try the bearing puller/installer again with more pressure to check that; I've thought a bearing was all the way in a couple times, but on the second try got a tiny bit more before it really seated; Harley bearings can be very tight.
And coat the axle and inside all spacers with anti seize or grease; I've had to drive out axles stuck to that spacer, and put in dry, they can rust tight in just a few years.
Just trying to clarify the inner spacer issue for you.
From my first post: " I suggest coating the bore with anti-seize before installing the bearing, and make sure the inner races contact the long center spacer; otherwise you could get a bad side load on the bearing that will ruin it."
When you torque the axle nut, it's squeezing against the inner races; they need to be supported so the ***** aren't crushed against the sides of the races, and that's what that spacer is for. I don't seem to have a pic of it from my Harleys, but have this one from a Yamaha dirt bike, same principle. You can see the long tube between the bearings (don't worry about two bearings on one side, Harleys are just one per side); properly sized, the bearing inner races will just touch it when everything is tightened down, without putting any side loads on the bearings. Hopefully your wheel will match a Harley standard spacer, but best to measure everything carefully, and determine, as multihdrdr said, the spacer length needed down to .xxx (thousandth's) of an inch. Should be able to do that since you have access to a machine shop. When you install the bearings, get one side in all the way, and turn the bearing to get a feel for how free it is. Put the spacer in, and then the second bearing - now see if the bearings turn as freely as that first check, should be no more resistance or your spacer is too long and the ***** are being pushed against the sides of the races. Bearings free, feel the spacer, must not be any side to side movement and may even resist moving off center position - you might have to shift it to get the axle in. If the spacer is loose, it's either not long enough or one of the bearings isn't fully seated - you can try the bearing puller/installer again with more pressure to check that; I've thought a bearing was all the way in a couple times, but on the second try got a tiny bit more before it really seated; Harley bearings can be very tight.
And coat the axle and inside all spacers with anti seize or grease; I've had to drive out axles stuck to that spacer, and put in dry, they can rust tight in just a few years.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,667
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
multihdrdr - sounds like you're really knowledgeable about this, how about checking what I've put here in case I've had a senior moment and got something backwards.
Just trying to clarify the inner spacer issue for you.
From my first post: " I suggest coating the bore with anti-seize before installing the bearing, and make sure the inner races contact the long center spacer; otherwise you could get a bad side load on the bearing that will ruin it."
When you torque the axle nut, it's squeezing against the inner races; they need to be supported so the ***** aren't crushed against the sides of the races, and that's what that spacer is for.
I don't seem to have a pic of it from my Harleys, but have this one from a Yamaha dirt bike, same principle. You can see the long tube between the bearings (don't worry about two bearings on one side, Harleys are just one per side); properly sized, the bearing inner races will just touch it when everything is tightened down, without putting any side loads on the bearings.
Hopefully your wheel will match a Harley standard spacer, but best to measure everything carefully, and determine, as multihdrdr said, the spacer length needed down to .xxx (thousandth's) of an inch. Should be able to do that since you have access to a machine shop.
When you install the bearings, get one side in all the way, and turn the bearing to get a feel for how free it is.
Put the spacer in, and then the second bearing - now see if the bearings turn as freely as that first check, should be no more resistance or your spacer is too long and the ***** are being pushed against the sides of the races.
Bearings free, feel the spacer, must not be any side to side movement and may even resist moving off center position - you might have to shift it to get the axle in. If the spacer is loose, it's either not long enough or one of the bearings isn't fully seated - you can try the bearing puller/installer again with more pressure to check that; I've thought a bearing was all the way in a couple times, but on the second try got a tiny bit more before it really seated; Harley bearings can be very tight.
And coat the axle and inside all spacers with anti seize or grease; I've had to drive out axles stuck to that spacer, and put in dry, they can rust tight in just a few years.
Just trying to clarify the inner spacer issue for you.
From my first post: " I suggest coating the bore with anti-seize before installing the bearing, and make sure the inner races contact the long center spacer; otherwise you could get a bad side load on the bearing that will ruin it."
When you torque the axle nut, it's squeezing against the inner races; they need to be supported so the ***** aren't crushed against the sides of the races, and that's what that spacer is for.
I don't seem to have a pic of it from my Harleys, but have this one from a Yamaha dirt bike, same principle. You can see the long tube between the bearings (don't worry about two bearings on one side, Harleys are just one per side); properly sized, the bearing inner races will just touch it when everything is tightened down, without putting any side loads on the bearings.
Hopefully your wheel will match a Harley standard spacer, but best to measure everything carefully, and determine, as multihdrdr said, the spacer length needed down to .xxx (thousandth's) of an inch. Should be able to do that since you have access to a machine shop.
When you install the bearings, get one side in all the way, and turn the bearing to get a feel for how free it is.
Put the spacer in, and then the second bearing - now see if the bearings turn as freely as that first check, should be no more resistance or your spacer is too long and the ***** are being pushed against the sides of the races.
Bearings free, feel the spacer, must not be any side to side movement and may even resist moving off center position - you might have to shift it to get the axle in. If the spacer is loose, it's either not long enough or one of the bearings isn't fully seated - you can try the bearing puller/installer again with more pressure to check that; I've thought a bearing was all the way in a couple times, but on the second try got a tiny bit more before it really seated; Harley bearings can be very tight.
And coat the axle and inside all spacers with anti seize or grease; I've had to drive out axles stuck to that spacer, and put in dry, they can rust tight in just a few years.
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Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,175
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From: Nor Cal
IMOLD - Overall, it sounds fine. A few points i might make (and I'm to referring specifically to 2000-up sealed bearings) are as follows:
Not just any side...install 1st bearing on the "Primary" side (left side on front, right on rear. Can also think of it as the Brake Rotor side(don't let dual disc fronts cloud that, think single disc fronts) also Harley has conveniently machined grooves in the hub face to signify which is the "Primary" side).
"too long"...That could be true if you were trying to press the bearing to the bottom of the bore. You're not...you're pressing the second bearing so that the inner race just contacts the spacer. So whatever the length the spacer is, if you are just pressing to the spacer, it will always be the same resistance. At this point in the assembly process you really wouldn't know if your spacer was too long (unless grossly too long). You'll find out later if you spacer is correct.
I hope that makes sense.
When you install the bearings, get one side in all the way
Put the spacer in, and then the second bearing - now see if the bearings turn as freely as that first check, should be no more resistance or your spacer is too long
I hope that makes sense.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,096
Likes: 4,673
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Not just any side...install 1st bearing on the "Primary" side (left side on front, right on rear. Can also think of it as the Brake Rotor side(don't let dual disc fronts cloud that, think single disc fronts) also Harley has conveniently machined grooves in the hub face to signify which is the "Primary" side).
...
...
Next new tires and bearings, will be sure to put the bearings on in the right order. Since now I know there is a right order.It's easy to forget something putting a wheel on...
I forgot what?
