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If it wasn't a tight fit, the bearing housing would spin in the cup and on the axle. It would burn up in pretty short order since it wasn't designed to do that.
You need a wheel bearing puller like this, and don't even think about using a hammer. I think mine is a pit bull, but there are many brands that are all about the same except for price, from well under $100 to over $300. The ones for Harleys usually have 3/4, 1", and mm sizes so you can do any Harley wheel. Forget slide hammer pullers; if your bearing will come out with one of those, the wheel bore is probably badly worn. I suggest coating the bore with anti-seize before installing the bearing, and make sure the inner races contact the long center spacer; otherwise you could get a bad side load on the bearing that will ruin it. A lot of guys have punched the bearings out and hammered them in using a socket that fits over the inner race. You can do that, but will almost certainly get some cocking that will gouge the wheel bore; get it too loose for a good fit - that's a new wheel. The bearing puller is cheaper, and much easier to use, not at all what I'd call a pita if you already have the wheel off.
1.99 ID on the hub and 2.04 OD on the bearing - isn't that kinda backwards?
Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
No...that is what is known as a tight fit, if it were the other way around, the bearing would be a loose fit in the wheel..
No, that's what you call a "NO fit". you better check your measuring stick again. or try another wheel. you aren't to going push a 2.04 into a 1.99 hole. that's .050 (50 thousandths) difference. that's almost 1/16" (.0625) difference (for those that are decimal equivalent challenged).
I may not be a machinist, however, I do know how to use calipers.
Picked up these wheels and one side doesn't have a bearing. Do they make mag wheels with different Size bearings?
ok that explains why you are getting non standard harley dimensions. It's a aftermarket wheel. they can make a wheel any way they want (within standard bearing size confines). read the the # off the seal of the bearing. i'll try to help you later (if no one else does). i'm going to a party now
I'd recommend popping the plastic seal off the bearing in the wheel to check out the bearing condition, and condition of the grease. Pressure washers can blast grit past that rubber seal. If you haven't done it before, just slide a tiny flat tip screwdriver under the plastic at the inner race side. Seems to work better if you slide it in at an angle instead of straight across, too. Pry gently, shouldn't hurt anything, and they just push back on. I've seen bearings that have a plastic coated metal seal, look about the same, but the metal can bend out of shape if you aren't real careful. Haven't seen any of those on a Harley, but an aftermarket wheel... like multihdrdr said. When you get another bearing, they often come in pairs; wouldn't hurt to have two new bearings in that wheel. I'd never just replace one. Some of the cheap bearings have plastic cages for the ***** - I'd never use one of those, only metal, seen too many plastic ones come apart.
Somebody has used a hammer on that wheel, can see the marks in the bottom pic. If that was done pounding the missing bearing in, might be ridges in the bore where the bearing cocked. Run your finger around where the bearing will go; if you feel any little ridges, I'd recommend filing/sanding them down very carefully, ridges will try to make the bearing **** at an angle going in, even with a good bearing puller sometimes.
Let us know how this turns out, you might run into something we haven't, can't learn too much.
Ok. Thanks for the info and tips. I will check the bearing number. Also planning on replacing both. Guess I'll have to take the ones I got back to the dealership.
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