On hard full throttle noise is down by the primary sounds like tin foil 2013 wide glide 103" does not do it on slow full throttle.

 

Tin foil makes a noise?

 

Probably pre-ignition. Commonly called 'pinging'.

Mark

 

I had that once, except mine sounded more like a siren. Stayed on it, and pretty soon it just faded away.

 

Change in gas, try some octane boost

 

Down shift, then hammer it. Sounds like pre-detonation (pinging), not good for the engine.

 

Are using a decent octane of gas?

 

Try running a colder spark plug.

Copied and pasted from the interwebs:

It’s hard to define detonation and not pre-ignition because the two are often confused and or misunderstood. Detonation and pre-ignition are two distinctly different types of combustion. Detonation is the AFR mix igniting by itself due to heat and pressure. Detonation is what occurs AFTER the spark plug has fired. Everything that happens before the spark plug fires is considered pre-ignition.

Pre-ignition represents the worst possible thing that can happen during the combustion process. Detonation is pretty common and motors can run for 100’s of thousands of miles while suffering from light to moderate knock – Especially today’s newer cars with intelligent knock monitoring. However, these aren’t high performance engines.



Pre-ignition is what happens when you have a hot spot inside the combustion chamber. A hotspot is something or some area that gets hotter than anywhere else. The usual suspects are the plug ground strap, the plug tip itself, or even a bit of carbon on the exhaust valve or the piston head. Basically anything that can act like a “glow plug” inside the combustion chamber can cause pre-ignition.

To stop pre-ignition ahead of time you need to eliminate hotspots and keep the motor running at normal operating temps. A motor that runs hot is making every single vehicle system work harder. The correct heat range spark plug is a must. An incorrect heat range plug can induce pre-ignition all by itself. Hotter plugs are better for cold starting and idle etc, but bad for a high output motor. Forced induction motors should always run 2 or 3 heat ranges colder then a NA motor. If you’re motor is run under a load for an extended period of time you’re going to need to take extra steps to avoid pre-ignition. Some manufacturers use piston oil squirters, small jets that spray oil onto the bottoms of the pistons. This cooling of the AFR mix inside the combustion chamber is called quenching. The cool sides of the cylinder and piston head “quench” the AFR mix as it ignites, helping to control the flame front as it spreads out across the chamber. Regardless of steps taken, all efforts to avoid pre-ignition MUST be considered throughout the build and during the tuning process.

Hope this helps. Best of luck in resolving your issue. Regards-

I.M.

 

Would running a colder plug mess with the knock sensors? I get the same thing, but it's only at low RPMs under heavy acceleration and I've heard lots of people say that's typical for these engines. I guess it doesn't help that I'm running a 95ci upgrade with cam and canned tuned. I really wanted to wait to get a dyno tune done until after I got the heads done, but it's going on two years now...

 

Does sound like a ping. I had a single tink sound the instant I would hit the throttle hard. I backed off a few degrees of timing (closer to the stock setting) on my PCV canned map and it went away.