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Question for older riders: Foot Clutch / Hand Shift Harleys

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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 06:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Lickmeister
Thanks Sixguns. I didn't know the foot clutch would stay in place, freeing up the left foot for steadying the bike while stopped. I suppose the operation as you described becomes second nature and intuitive after a period of time, just like our current set-ups are.
The clutch setup he was referring to is a "rocker" clutch. It is quite a bit easier to use than a suicide clutch. And it does become second nature to the point of totally screwing up when hopping on a "regular" bike!

A great modern-day help comes from Baker - a transmission top that puts neutral at the bottom of the pattern instead of between 1 and 2. Love the Baker tranny and N1 top on my suicide/jockey '87 Sloptail.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnMn
Right, but there is no single technique, that allows a single answer.
My point is/was that every rider will operate differently,,
Even the same operator will do things differently in various situations.

Asking for a specific answer to this is mute,, there is no chance in He!! your going to get a specific answer to a variable situation.
Think about it.
Fair enough. I guess my question is/was, back in the day, what did the owner's manual state or what would a rider training course teach a first time rider to do, for the most safe/efficient generally recommended procedure.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 12:25 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Lickmeister
older Harleys and was wondering about the operation of foot clutch/hand shift bikes.
what would a rider training course teach
I'm really not trying to be rude,, but are you serious?
Your trying to imply 2015 mind set to 1940's issues.
My God man,, there were still horses on the road in rural areas, steam engines were still harvesting crops.
Best guess off the top of my head is leave it in gear,, you can't make a bike move if it's in neutral,, the idea was to get the bike to move down the road,,
Maybe there was a coasting technique,, to save fuel,,
 
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:06 AM
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There's not much I can add......BUT I can tell you, as a first bike for a 16yr old kid back in the early '60's......IT WAS ONE HELL OF ALOT OF FUN.....!!!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:28 PM
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In 1965 I got my motorcycle license by paying I think $2.00 for it with no test. This was in rural Ontario where there were not many paved roads. I was 12 years old before I knew what a curb was.
Anyhow, learning to ride my first "45" took all of one scoot up and down the laneway. The foot clutch and hand shift were all I knew until I took an interest in the Brit bikes a few years later. There was nothing like sliding those old hardtails around the turns on the dirt or gravel roads. I added the reverse gear to the transmission with a kit available for $14.00, which was a sizable sum for me, only making 75 cents an hour, part time after school & weekends. That added a new element of motorcycle mastery and many mishaps. Yeah, Ive been ****-up in the ditch a few times. lol. Today, there are lawnmowers that can outrun those old flathead WLAs.
Just a little insight from the archives in my mind.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 07:55 PM
  #16  
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I rode them , they sucked by todays standard's.


my first was a 61 cube 1948., no front brake, pillion seat, and broke down every few miles.


converted the rocker to suicide, made it worse..


bought a 650 triumph..(1956)...then several more limey bikes
finally, went back to HD in 1986,,,wow the evolution was here.


OLD aint good !!!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:51 PM
  #17  
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Well there is no synchro into first so it is a must that you get to neutral, come to a complete stop and then shift into first gear.

On my 49 EL the stock front brake is on the left side. I get the bike to neural position, make sure clutch is not engaged, use brakes to come to a complete stop, shift into first, and keep left foot on the clutch so that as soon as the light changes (or whatever needed for me to come to a stop) it is merely a matter of engaging the clutch and moving forward.

It takes a bit of practice. The other thing you have to remember is to look farther ahead on these old bikes mainly because it takes longer to stop on front and rear drum brakes. Nice thing it that the bikes about half of what modern day iron weighs so it is easier to stop.
 

Last edited by panz4ever; Sep 5, 2015 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by pococj
The clutch setup he was referring to is a "rocker" clutch. It is quite a bit easier to use than a suicide clutch. And it does become second nature to the point of totally screwing up when hopping on a "regular" bike!

Funny you say that...I let my buddy ride my fatboy today with a jockey set up (LaBriolia) so he could decide if he wanted to put one on his dyna. He decided against it, said it was "not natural"

I rode his dyna and had to think about "hand clutch, foot shift" and I rode that way for 25 years verses less than 1 riding jockey

 
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 10:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Lickmeister
Fair enough. I guess my question is/was, back in the day, what did the owner's manual state or what would a rider training course teach a first time rider to do, for the most safe/efficient generally recommended procedure.
Well back in the day the owners manual was probably two pages and didn't tell you how to ride; and there weren't any training courses.

I have never owned a suicide shift, but my Dad did. I have ridden a few briefly and couldn't tell anyone how I did it, been a while. I do remember riding a very old Indian, when you pushed the clutch in you could push the pedal in towards the motor and hook the clutch pedal on a hook to hold it disengaged. I have no idea if this was stock or added later.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #20  
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Never rode a rocker clutch, but I had a Knucklehead bobber, jockey shift, suicide clutch. I generally kept it in gear for engine braking and when I got stopped slipped it into neutral. It had an open primary, so needed to be real careful how the foot went on the peg - my boot heel still has grooves from it. I usually just put my right foot down and kept the left on the peg.

It was a great looking bike, but dangerous as hell to ride with that setup and crappy brakes - front was the stock cable actuated drum, rear was an exotic European Sprotor (combo sprocket/rotor) with very little fluid capacity that would boil off and not work at all if abused very much. I miss it, but with the traffic I get in it was a little too exciting.

Here's a pretty good shot that shows the clutch, with chain linkage and shifter:


Here's the other side, just for hahas:
 
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