Ignition Switch Problem?
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 164
Likes: 9
From: Houston
I have to disagree about the VSS. You stated that you are getting no other symptoms so I'm assuming that the bike is running correctly and the signals are still self cancelling. If the VSS (speed sensor) was bad the signals would not cancel and if the bike is fuel injected it would not want to come down to an idle without stalling when coming to a stop. I'm not familiar with your model but are any indicator lights on the face of the speedometer (if there are any) working? If nothing is working (speedometer, odometer, indicators) than I would look for a loose connection at the speedo, a bad ignition switch, or a bad speedo unit.
Bill from Tn, I am waiting for my service manual to arrive. Was this a difficult/expensive repair?
Thanks to all.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 800
Likes: 407
From: Middle Tennessee
Your fatboy switch is on the tank. No more expensive but a little harder to change. I am handy with a soldering iron and the generic switch will have to be spliced into existing wires.
As I mentioned earlier, I could usually wiggle my key and get my speedometer back. That pretty much diagnosed my problem.
Harley will sell you a switch that matches your current key and fork lock if that is important to you. It is pricier and you will have to wait several days for them to get one matched for you.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 827
Likes: 3
From: NW Florida
Ignition switch on my 2000 Fat Boy is the tank mounted style. I replaced it a couple of year back. The one I got was from JP Cycles. The Superstore is also a good source, as previously mentioned. Swap out is relatively simple. No soldering involved. Once the dash is removed the switch is easily removed, wires are unplugged, and plug back in.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 316
Likes: 54
From: North Alabama
My 02 Heritage did the exact same thing... been that way all year because I could just giggle the switch and it would come back on and work fine. Coming to Work last week it did it going down the road and at the next redlight the engine wouldn't idle. Got to work, took the switch off, took it apart and swapped the contacts/bridges/springs around and cleaned all contact surfaces and joints. One contact/bridge was wore pretty good but the other two had NO visible wear at all. Works and feels like a brand new switch now.
For what it's worth, the local Harley shop quoted me $133 bucks for a new switch a few months backs. I said, "f*ck that" and is why I just kept giggling the switch. I figured a switch from J&P would work fine, but I knew I wasn't buying the switch from Harley for $133 damn dollars... and since I fixed it myself, it's even better.
For what it's worth, the local Harley shop quoted me $133 bucks for a new switch a few months backs. I said, "f*ck that" and is why I just kept giggling the switch. I figured a switch from J&P would work fine, but I knew I wasn't buying the switch from Harley for $133 damn dollars... and since I fixed it myself, it's even better.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 112
From: Florida
Yep this....if you have a shop manual you see it's easy to take apart the switch. I had the same problem, took the switch apart and clean it and put some contact grease on the contact tabs. No problems since.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,101
Likes: 1,013
The switch on my old wideglide was flaky also.
The bike would die on the road at speed, I found the problem by
hitting the switch with my fist, and the bike came back to life.
Not fun at highway speed...
The bike would die on the road at speed, I found the problem by
hitting the switch with my fist, and the bike came back to life.
Not fun at highway speed...
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