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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:45 AM
  #11  
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I have several Deltran "Battery Tender" float chargers for my classic cars and my Road King. The instructions that come with them each stated that the battery MUST be fully charged prior to hooking up the tender. The purpose is to maintain a "fully charged battery". This is from their web site.


Sixth Step: Float / Maintenance Charge.
This step is very important in terms of the fundamental Battery Tender® defining concept. The whole purpose of float / maintenance is to maintain a fully charged battery in that 100% State of Charge (SOC) condition. For nearly all batteries, that means applying a voltage to a fully charged battery that is 1 or 2 tenths of a volt above the voltage that the battery would support to indicate that its SOC = 100%. Also, the battery must be at rest, not being charged or discharged.
In most cases, a 12 volt lead-acid battery, at 100% SOC, will have a rest voltage between 12.8 and 13.1 volts. That means an effective float voltage need only be as high as 12.9 to 13.2 volts. However, most Battery Tender® battery chargers have float voltages between 13.3 and 13.5 volts. The important thing is that the float voltage should be higher than the fully charged rest state battery voltage and it should be lower than the gassing voltage which is about 13.8 volts. See the discussion about float charging on the Battery Tender® website. It is definitely worth your time to read that document.
The float voltage requirements for the 12 volt lithium ion battery, specifically the lithium iron phosphate battery are a little higher because the combined voltage of 4 lithium ion cells at 13.3 volts is higher than 6 lead acid cells at 2.15 volts.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #12  
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Load test it.
My "Big Crank" battery is now 4 years old and is going strong!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 09:35 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by lionsm13
Load test it.
My "Big Crank" battery is now 4 years old and is going strong!
My HD battery is 3.5 years old.
It's starts the bike but I've noticed lately there's a bit of a hesitation prior to turn-over.
Note that I always keep it on a tender.

I'll be taking two trips this summer and I certainly don't want to have to deal with a dead battery replacement on the road.
I'm a supporter of local purchases but since I'm not in dire need at this time I think I will get the "Big Crank" and give it a try.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Prot
Battery tenders typically output very little and are used for storage purposes. In other words, just enough to maintain a battery. A motorcycle battery charger outputs more and can charge a battery that has been discharged. Most people don't know the difference.

Get the battery charged up then take it to get load tested. While you are at it, check the condition of your battery cables.

If the battery test bad with a load tester, get a an AGM battery. If you have money to spend, you can opt for a lithium ion battery by Anti Gravity.

Also, upgrade your battery cables. Sumax is very good.

I am running Sumax cables and a 720 cranking amp Anti Gravity battery. Very expensive but so far I like it.
I beg to differ.

Most good Batter Tenders can take a battery from near discharged to fully charged float.

The common Battery Tender Jr. with its relatively low output of 0.75A can take the typical Harley 10AH battery from discharged to full in 25 hours.

http://www.batterytender.com/Dion/Ba...12V-0-75A.html

The Battery Tender® Junior is much more than a trickle charger. It has a brain. It's lightweight, compact, and fully automatic; very easy to use, especially in small spaces. It will keep your battery fully charged so that it is ready to go when you are!

  • Perfect for all lead-acid, flooded or sealed maintenance free batteries (AGM and gel cell).
  • Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Absorption Mode, Float Mode).
  • Automatically switches to float / maintenance voltage after fully charging the battery.
  • If the battery voltage drops too far under load, full charger output power resumes.
  • Solid state two color LED indicates stage of charger.
  • Spark proof.
  • Reverse polarity protected.
  • 12' output cord.
  • 5 year warranty
There are also a few battery tender/maintainers that have desulfator - the next one I get will have this.


BatteryMINDer 2012-AGM : 12Volt 2 Amp (12V 2A) Charger/Maintainer/Desulfator For Optima, Odyssey, Polaris, Yuasa & Other High Performance Specialty 12 Volt Sealed AGM Lead-Acid Batteries



$100
BatteryMINDer® 2012-AGM is a SmarTECHnology™ microprocessor controlled charger/maintainer/desulfator for Optima, Odyssey, Polaris, Yuasa & Other High Performance Specialty 12 Volt Sealed AGM Lead-Acid Batteries . Plug 'n Run feature means "no buttons to push." It is designed with 5-stages and is fully automatic. This charger actively monitors your battery's voltage, amperage acceptance and temperature at all times. Features easily understood diagnostic LED indicators that display the battery's condition and actual state-of-charge profile. Working through a series of charging and diagnostics stages, the internal program adjusts its output several times a second based on sensor reading to quickly and correctly charge your battery. When used as a maintainer, the BatteryMINDer® is guaranteed to maximize your battery's life and storage capacity. The temperature compensated long-term maintenance stage will add years of service. Patented fulltime high frequency pulse desulfation (NOT high voltage) prevents battery sulfation on new batteries or eliminates in older batteries, the #1 cause of early battery failure. Unit can maintain up to six 12 Volt batteries at one time when connected in parallel by using SmarTechnology™ Y-Connectors 210AY or customer supplied 18-Gauge insulated wire. .
 

Last edited by 1004ron; Feb 22, 2016 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:04 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Bluraven
My HD battery is 3.5 years old.
It's starts the bike but I've noticed lately there's a bit of a hesitation prior to turn-over.
Note that I always keep it on a tender.

I'll be taking two trips this summer and I certainly don't want to have to deal with a dead battery replacement on the road.
I'm a supporter of local purchases but since I'm not in dire need at this time I think I will get the "Big Crank" and give it a try.
I thought that my battery was toast too and bought another one, but truth is that it was the starter clutch,
This is the weak link in the equation, at least it was for me.
No issues now.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:19 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by lionsm13
I thought that my battery was toast too and bought another one, but truth is that it was the starter clutch,
This is the weak link in the equation, at least it was for me.
No issues now.
Electrical issues certainly have many causes.
I figure with the battery being 3.5 years old a replacement is somewhat within the "routine maintenance" schedule and for me it's a better now than later situation.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:37 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by lionsm13
I thought that my battery was toast too and bought another one, but truth is that it was the starter clutch,
This is the weak link in the equation, at least it was for me.
No issues now.
How did you find that was the problem? Did you put in the new charged battery and still no start?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 12:04 PM
  #18  
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Never had an issue per say with the start other than a weak start or somewhat hesitating when it initially did start which led me to believe that it was the battery when in fact it was not.
Also changed out the compensator, which was probably not needed either, but not a bad thing.
Changed out the starter clutch with this one;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-*****-Re...xUwbDN&vxp=mtr
Good price here.
Amazon.com: All ***** Racing 79-2104 Big Twin Starter Clutch Assembly: Automotive Amazon.com: All ***** Racing 79-2104 Big Twin Starter Clutch Assembly: Automotive
 

Last edited by lionsm13; Feb 22, 2016 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #19  
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Hmm... hard to change out? Mine has sounding, like the same problems. Curious if it's the problem. I do not put it on a tender in the riding season, and people say that my battery could be toast. But a 13? I am questioning it. I need to test the battery and regulator first. Then possibly this is both of toe come back cool. Thanks for the other path.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 03:14 PM
  #20  
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Be aware that Harley batteries are no longer made in the USA. Found out the hard way. So sick of cheap junk! I replaced mine last June and already needed a warranty replacement. I always assumed they were East Penn / Deka but no longer true. Here is a picture of the old and new one. The new one has no country of origin information anywhere on it. - Who knows what cave they come from now. Never again.
 
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