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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:50 AM
  #11  
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Check your cables and belts also
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:24 PM
  #12  
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It's good to work on your own ride, you get to know it better, and you spent time getting up close and examining other things that may need attention.

and you don't need all sorts of "special tools and lifts" 'n over hyped stuff like that just to change your oil! The only tool you might have to buy is a filter wrench. You likely have the rest already.

When I had my twinkie I ran Castrol V-Twin in all 3 holes.
My older bikes....I ran/run specific in each.

Don't go crazy about what brand to get, honestly...I just get cheaper stuff...to me, changing it more often is more important than picking some over-priced snake oil brand. Try different ones in your tranny 'n primary and see which one feels and sounds better to YOU. It's a small capacity in there...doesn't really cost much to try different brands and change it til you find one that makes you happy.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by TxHDRdr27
Thanks everybody for the information. As I was typing this out last night I was doing in a rush and I apologize for not giving all the information. I ride a 2007 Harley Davidson street bobber (FXDB). Its got a 96 cubic inch engine with a 6 Speed. I'm looking to do more of the lighter maintenance myself. But I have your stuff I think I will still rely on the dealership. I read some reviews on here with people saying that regular engine oil in the transmission case will make shifting a lot smoother. Is this just personal preference or is there some validity to this?
Millions of opinions on this. Some will say this "brand name" is the greatest in the entire world! It will quiet the valve train, shift smoother, and give you 10 hp!!
I personally have tried several combinations and there was NO difference between any of them. Sound, performance, shifting, clutch, etc. I even tried ATF in the primary and feels the same as anything else. Maybe I'm just not as much on a spiritual level with my bike as some others.
Just use whatever is available that makes you happy on the inside. It's not difficult and will make your bike happy on the inside too.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:57 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by YeOldeStonecat
It's good to work on your own ride, you get to know it better, and you spent time getting up close and examining other things that may need attention.

and you don't need all sorts of "special tools and lifts" 'n over hyped stuff like that just to change your oil! The only tool you might have to buy is a filter wrench. You likely have the rest already.

When I had my twinkie I ran Castrol V-Twin in all 3 holes.
My older bikes....I ran/run specific in each.

Don't go crazy about what brand to get, honestly...I just get cheaper stuff...to me, changing it more often is more important than picking some over-priced snake oil brand. Try different ones in your tranny 'n primary and see which one feels and sounds better to YOU. It's a small capacity in there...doesn't really cost much to try different brands and change it til you find one that makes you happy.
Says the person with a big garage.

How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.

Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 01:34 PM
  #15  
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HD Syn3 in all 3 holes for me. As already said, as long as it gets changed is what counts.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 01:38 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Next In Line
Says the person with a big garage.

How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.

Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
Where did all that come from? He was referring to needing special tools and said, ". . . you likely have the rest." The OP lives in Oregon.

Anyway, to the OP: You will need an allens & torx for the trans fill hole & derby cover. If you don't have a set of those already, get them. Most bolts on your bike is torx or allen. Folding sets in the tool bag can be a life saver out on the road.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 03:00 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Next In Line
Says the person with a big garage.

How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.

Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
Uh.."big garage" to change oil? Hell back in my teens and 20's in little apartments without a garage, I'd change oil outside on the street. Car, Bike, Van, Truck, whatever..don't need a "garage" to change oil. Hell you can change the oil on a bike on a front step! Ain't what...6 'n a half feet by 2 feet of space?

Dunno how your logic sequence works...but for changing oil, I don't "wait for parts" for weeks...I get the parts...uhm..."first"..and then flush it. That way I don't have that awful pain of "waiting". Kinda learned that one when pops taught me wrenching stuff around age 8. "Get your oil first!"

Outside the USA...you have these new fangled wrenches called "adjustables"?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
What are you using the lube the clutch cable?


carl
Same oil I run in the transmission. I make a funnel out of paper and duct tape at the upper end of the cable and pour a bit of oil into it. I let it run down the cable while I do some other stuff.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 07:22 PM
  #19  
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If you dont know how to do it or what to do, take it to the pros. Stealership. What a horrible word. A good Dealer will do the service properly with the proper fluids and a tech that knows how and what to do. More expensive? Maybe but thats the choice you make to have someone else do the work for you. You have to find the right one and one you trust. Most are, but some not so much.
I work for an automotive Dealership. We do things right.
Stealership.... I fn hate that word.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Uncle G.
This. I do my own services, but it DOES take me an entire 8-9 hours to do it. In addition to changing the oil and filter I also:


Clean tappet oil screen (mine's an Evo).
Drain and change fork oil.
Disassemble, clean and grease clutch lever, brake lever, throttle.
Lubricate clutch cable and throttle cable.
Inspect condition of brake fluid, flush (replace) fluid annually.
Inspect brake pads, lubricate brake caliper sliding pins.
Grease steering head bearings.
Remove and clean carburetor float bowl, inspect/clean air filter.
Inspect/adjust primary chain and clutch.
Lubricate shift and rear brake linkage.
Replace spark plugs (every 10K or 2nd service).
Change primary oil.
Change transmission oil.
Inspect all fasteners, including spokes (I run laced wheels), tighten as necessary. Inspect wheels for trueness.


This is what the factory service manual says to do at every service (as much as I can remember at the moment). The dealer SHOULD be doing this as well. If I could trust the dealer to do all of this as thoroughly as I do, I'd be more inclined to pay them to do it.
I do my oil & filter every 5K (I use Mobil 1 V-Twin Full Syn). If memory serves, the FSM for my Sport recommends trans fluid change at 10K miles, fork oil change at 20K. And plugs should last much longer than 10K. If you're happy with your regimen, more power to ya. I'm with you on annual brake fluid change, however, because it absorbs moisture.
 
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