Changing Fluids
and you don't need all sorts of "special tools and lifts" 'n over hyped stuff like that just to change your oil! The only tool you might have to buy is a filter wrench. You likely have the rest already.
When I had my twinkie I ran Castrol V-Twin in all 3 holes.
My older bikes....I ran/run specific in each.
Don't go crazy about what brand to get, honestly...I just get cheaper stuff...to me, changing it more often is more important than picking some over-priced snake oil brand. Try different ones in your tranny 'n primary and see which one feels and sounds better to YOU. It's a small capacity in there...doesn't really cost much to try different brands and change it til you find one that makes you happy.
I personally have tried several combinations and there was NO difference between any of them. Sound, performance, shifting, clutch, etc. I even tried ATF in the primary and feels the same as anything else. Maybe I'm just not as much on a spiritual level with my bike as some others.
Just use whatever is available that makes you happy on the inside. It's not difficult and will make your bike happy on the inside too.
and you don't need all sorts of "special tools and lifts" 'n over hyped stuff like that just to change your oil! The only tool you might have to buy is a filter wrench. You likely have the rest already.
When I had my twinkie I ran Castrol V-Twin in all 3 holes.
My older bikes....I ran/run specific in each.
Don't go crazy about what brand to get, honestly...I just get cheaper stuff...to me, changing it more often is more important than picking some over-priced snake oil brand. Try different ones in your tranny 'n primary and see which one feels and sounds better to YOU. It's a small capacity in there...doesn't really cost much to try different brands and change it til you find one that makes you happy.
How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.
Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.
Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
Anyway, to the OP: You will need an allens & torx for the trans fill hole & derby cover. If you don't have a set of those already, get them. Most bolts on your bike is torx or allen. Folding sets in the tool bag can be a life saver out on the road.
How is one able to change the oil using only a filter wrench? I live outside of the USA and the only way to get non-metric tools is through Snap-On. Figure the price is double of what one in the US pays on tools.
Not everybody has a garage they are able to keep the bike in while waiting a week or more for unexpected parts. Even dropping a bolt isn't as simple as running to the hardware store to replace it.
Dunno how your logic sequence works...but for changing oil, I don't "wait for parts" for weeks...I get the parts...uhm..."first"..and then flush it. That way I don't have that awful pain of "waiting". Kinda learned that one when pops taught me wrenching stuff around age 8. "Get your oil first!"
Outside the USA...you have these new fangled wrenches called "adjustables"?
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
I work for an automotive Dealership. We do things right.
Stealership.... I fn hate that word.
Clean tappet oil screen (mine's an Evo).
Drain and change fork oil.
Disassemble, clean and grease clutch lever, brake lever, throttle.
Lubricate clutch cable and throttle cable.
Inspect condition of brake fluid, flush (replace) fluid annually.
Inspect brake pads, lubricate brake caliper sliding pins.
Grease steering head bearings.
Remove and clean carburetor float bowl, inspect/clean air filter.
Inspect/adjust primary chain and clutch.
Lubricate shift and rear brake linkage.
Replace spark plugs (every 10K or 2nd service).
Change primary oil.
Change transmission oil.
Inspect all fasteners, including spokes (I run laced wheels), tighten as necessary. Inspect wheels for trueness.
This is what the factory service manual says to do at every service (as much as I can remember at the moment). The dealer SHOULD be doing this as well. If I could trust the dealer to do all of this as thoroughly as I do, I'd be more inclined to pay them to do it.











