The crank sensor?

06 heritage

 

You don't. Its a coil of wire around a core piece, like a guitar pickup. There's little iron teeth on the flywheel that go past the sensor, and as each tooth passes, it generates a pulse of current in the sensor, There's a gap at one point, which makes a null as the gap passes, and the computers sense that null and use that to set the timing.

 

Took the bike in back in May have been traveling for work ever sense and they u told them my problem and they said we just reset it.

Not a problem

Well back from work out of town and nothing
Obviously a problem

Obviously u got screwed

 

What's the code thing?

 

Pull the battery for 15 min?

 

The computer throws a code if the signal from the sensor is missing or uneven. If you've got that code, the easiest and probably best thing is to replace the sensor.

They do go bad, and when they do, the bike won't run. Usually when you're as far from home as you can be.

 

first, some info about your bike would be good, saw the year, 06, mileage, ect. Next has there been any issues with it, stalling, not starting, especially when hot, any other driving issues. Who told you there was a crank sensor code/ what did they do with it? They may have cleared the code, but didn't reset any crank sensor issue. has it returned? need much more info here. got to help us help you. there is a way to test the sensor for failure. But you need to be having issues. It can be a false code, a ghost code, that may be caused by something else. what issues are you having?

does a check engine light come on?

 

no!! not a fix.

 

Just put in a new sensor. Very simple easy job. Not an expensive item. I always carry a new one with on every long trip that I take. They do go bad from time to time.

 

There is a very easy way to test them. Almost every time they fail, is from heat, either a heat sink when parked after a run cycle, or as you are riding the bike, and engine is up to temp. remove the sensor from the bike, and harness. inside the connector, there is 2 wires, connect you ohmmeter to the wires, it should read around 700-850 ohms, usually very close to 800. take a hairdryer, or hot air gun and aim it at the sensor, about 8-10 inches away. and watch the meter. usually around 10-15 seconds, if the sensor is bad, the ohmmeter will go to infinity, and sensor is bad, if it maintains the original reading . the problem is not the sensor. You can replace it if you want, its your money, but highly unlikely that is the issue, look elsewhere. from all I've seen, they are reasonably reliable, but carrying one cant hurt, but I believe that you start getting hints that one is going bad long before it quits, and strands you, And I hate carrying a parts catalog in case something fails. if you have a code, or symptoms of this, check as I said, and if you really have doubts, go ahead and change it, but throwing parts at a problem is never the answer, unless all testing has failed to produce a suspect.