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Repairing Aluminum EVO oil pan

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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 03:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by QC
Good idea. Being a machinist myself, I could see doing that repair, but on a mill where I can control everything by clamping it down.
Thanks for the tip. Local machinst said he couldn't do anything that goes on the road, something about certification and liability. He sent me to an automotive machinst a bit further away, who said he didn't feel comfortable with the amount of meat left on the pan, sent me to a welder he knew to put a bung in it.

Originally Posted by hardheaded
weld it up and install a heli coil. baker sells an extra deep pan that holds another quart of oil. it's pretty pricey though.
Doesn't the helicoil require threads to be present? Would I need to redrill and tap after they welder fills the hole in?

Originally Posted by DRBUICK
if you want to ship it to me I can weld it up for you
Thanks for the offer, dropped it off over my lunch, I went ahead and paid them to weld the crack up on the other, so i'll have a good pan and a backup.

Originally Posted by smitty901
Time cert for the pan with stripped drain plug.

http://www.timesert.com/
Will these timserts cut new threads, or will I have to redrill and tap? If I do that, why wouldn't I just tap for the right size threads for a normal oil plug and ditch the timesert all together?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 03:35 PM
  #22  
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Cause the timesert is steel and not likely at all to strip in the future, like welded aluminum might.

By the way, helicoil doesn't require the old threads to be there, you use a special tap to make the threads forthe coil.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:33 PM
  #23  
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The timesert and the helicoil are thread inserts. Much better thread replacement because they are steel.

if you've had the drain hole welded up you could go either way to regain the threads for a plug, thread inserts or drill and tap back to what was threaded from the factory.
 

Last edited by Taggs; Feb 13, 2017 at 05:37 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 04:19 PM
  #24  
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Thanks again everone, went ahead and paid the welding shop $100 to do both pans, welded the crack in the new one and welded the old pan's drain plug up. I'll drill and tap this later for a backup pan. I put the previously cracked pan on yesterday, ran the bike for 20 minutes or so to warm it up then parked it with some cardboard under and it and I don't see any drips this morning. Going to keep watching it over the next month, but I might have actually gotten it this time.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 07:15 PM
  #25  
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Default Oil gasket maker

I replaced the timing chain in my Jeep Wrangler tungsten steel inline 6 cyl. which has a two part oilpan and cam chain cover combo. Seemed pretty hokey at first. Solid core of forged tungsten steel and then a sideways bolt-on section of oilpan, It called for permatex oil gasket maker in the manual. These engines are designed to last 400,000 miles. I used this gasket maker and not one drop of oil since. I am at 200,000 miles and zero leaks. Also any TIG welder should fix that easy, maybe a rental could be acquired to put a bead on it. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-...Maker/16777009
 
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