Jiffy stand
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 861
Likes: 136
From: Wisconsin
Jiffy stand
I'm pretty sure they're all the same but just in case their not, mine is a 2014 FLHTK Ultra limited. Problem is every couple of weeks my jiffy stand bolt becomes loose, which in turn causes the stand to move to far in both directions, and without tightening i'm afraid the bike will eventually end up falling over. Has anyone else experenced this and if so what can be done to remedy the problem.
Thanks in advance Jonnierock
Thanks in advance Jonnierock
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 546
Likes: 606
From: Out West
If you are talking about the keyhole shaped top piece that is secured to the top of the actual Jiffy stand leg/arm, then what I do is make sure it is a tight fit with the shoulder, and then I use a washer under the fastener head to make sure that the fastener is pushing 100% down (sometimes the shoulder of the fastener does not allow it to fully "seat", and even though the bolt is tight, the top "keyhole" piece isn't).
I then use Loctite, and they stay secure.
If they work loose, and continue to be used, the mating surfaces that prevent the top piece from rotating will eventually wear, and no matter how tight you get the fastener, leverage will just work things loose.
The factory stand is way better than any knockoff from a big parts warehouse, and I would definitely get a perfect condition factory unit off of Ebay if you have to go that route. Harley OEM stuff is usually pretty high quality, from construction to chrome.
Forgot to add- If you remove the top fastener and the keyed part just comes right off, It's probably worn. I like it when I have to kinda tap them down, that indicates a nice snug fit, and once Loctited, will not "waller" out.
I then use Loctite, and they stay secure.
If they work loose, and continue to be used, the mating surfaces that prevent the top piece from rotating will eventually wear, and no matter how tight you get the fastener, leverage will just work things loose.
The factory stand is way better than any knockoff from a big parts warehouse, and I would definitely get a perfect condition factory unit off of Ebay if you have to go that route. Harley OEM stuff is usually pretty high quality, from construction to chrome.
Forgot to add- If you remove the top fastener and the keyed part just comes right off, It's probably worn. I like it when I have to kinda tap them down, that indicates a nice snug fit, and once Loctited, will not "waller" out.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Apr 5, 2017 at 10:17 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 11,688
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From: Clearwater, Idaho
This is one of those rare situations where I would, with respect, recommend red loctite. It's in a location where a little heat can easily be applied with no damage to break the bond if needed. Just use only enough to get the job done.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 11,688
Likes: 22,275
From: Clearwater, Idaho
Unless you happen to carry a spare spring with you, it's probably a moot point anyway. It likely won't come off on it's own (and if it does, it's probably gone forever) and if it breaks, it's broken, and the only cure is a new one.
Last edited by martinj; Apr 5, 2017 at 05:37 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
actually, I have had a spring break while on the road. and for that reason, I do carry a spare with me at all times. if I don't need it, someone will.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 654
Likes: 67
From: PacificNorthWest
Whatever. It doesn't take that much heat to release red loctite (a lot less than exhaust heat shields see). And like I said, use the red sparingly and you can probably break it loose without heat.
Unless you happen to carry a spare spring with you, it's probably a moot point anyway. It likely won't come off on it's own (and if it does, it's probably gone forever) and if it breaks, it's broken, and the only cure is a new one.
Unless you happen to carry a spare spring with you, it's probably a moot point anyway. It likely won't come off on it's own (and if it does, it's probably gone forever) and if it breaks, it's broken, and the only cure is a new one.
A spare spring might not be a completely absurd idea..
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 505
From: Illinois
+1 on the blue Loctite. I strongly recommend the newer blue Loctite 243 vs the older and thinner Loctite 242.
I have been experimenting with both, well, whatever little I have left of the old one, and the old blue Loctite sometimes doesn't cure and it comes off easier than the new one.
I Googled it to see why and it seems that old Loctite has a problem curing when the bolt is dirty, which is what I was doing (some left-over oil residue on threads).
Lock washers also have a place in our bikes, in addition to Loctite, wherever a fastener might experience abnormal vibration.
I have been experimenting with both, well, whatever little I have left of the old one, and the old blue Loctite sometimes doesn't cure and it comes off easier than the new one.
I Googled it to see why and it seems that old Loctite has a problem curing when the bolt is dirty, which is what I was doing (some left-over oil residue on threads).
Lock washers also have a place in our bikes, in addition to Loctite, wherever a fastener might experience abnormal vibration.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,064
Likes: 4,696
From: Fix'n 2 N, TX
Had a buddy with an Ultra riding down the road and his spring came off !. Pulled into a station and had to ride up to a pump and "lean" it so he could get off and make repairs.
Thinking... that has to Suck ! makes me want to check mine..
Thinking... that has to Suck ! makes me want to check mine..