Steering Head Zerk Fitting
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: New York
That would be my last resort. I may try a right angle grease coupler first.
Thanks for your reply.
That would be my last resort. I may try a right angle grease coupler first.
Thanks for your reply.
Thanks for your reply.
That would be my last resort. I may try a right angle grease coupler first.
Thanks for your reply.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jun 16, 2017 at 12:39 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,243
Likes: 3,267
From: west Michigan
Have you tried a 5/16" or 6mm wrench? The type of fitting you install should depend on what your grease gun can reach.
You're right to use high temp grease, because it has a higher drop point and will stay in the steering head instead of leaking down on the front fender. The OEM Harley grease that I looked at a few years ago is way too soft.
When I lubed the neck bearings in my '04 RK, I had to fill the neck with grease, which took about half a tube. Keep an eye on the bottom of the steering neck when it becomes nearly full.
ETA: High temp automotive bearing grease is rated for use with disc brakes.
You're right to use high temp grease, because it has a higher drop point and will stay in the steering head instead of leaking down on the front fender. The OEM Harley grease that I looked at a few years ago is way too soft.
When I lubed the neck bearings in my '04 RK, I had to fill the neck with grease, which took about half a tube. Keep an eye on the bottom of the steering neck when it becomes nearly full.
ETA: High temp automotive bearing grease is rated for use with disc brakes.
Last edited by RK4ME; Jun 16, 2017 at 10:28 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,243
Likes: 3,267
From: west Michigan
I replaced the original steering neck grease zerk on my '04 RK with A 90 degree type.
You can loosen the old one with any type of pliers. Most grease zerks have pipe threads, so the only way they'll bind is if they're rusted or corroded. Bring the old one with you when you get the new one, to make sure the threads match.
You can loosen the old one with any type of pliers. Most grease zerks have pipe threads, so the only way they'll bind is if they're rusted or corroded. Bring the old one with you when you get the new one, to make sure the threads match.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,565
Likes: 3,957
From: Vermont
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,640
Likes: 6,445
From: Honah Lee
If you are going to replace it, be sure you get a correct fitting. Not a clue to what Harley used in that casting. Depends on how thick it is sometimes determined design. I have a alemite and zerk book I used in engineering. Think there are more than a dozen different thread types. Some are tapered and the hole is tapped straight pipe in most cases. Then the fittings locks dry seal with no sealer.
I have a flexible line with a long thin extension on my grease gun.
I think you should get the proper tool rather than re-engineer the part. It's not like it does not exists.
Those bearing in the head come greased and are tapered rollers. In truth, it probably would last the life of the bearing. Greased once at the first call out is surely enough. It takes a ton to fill the whole cavity then. It sits on top of the lower one which is actually to only one with any load.
I have a flexible line with a long thin extension on my grease gun.
I think you should get the proper tool rather than re-engineer the part. It's not like it does not exists.
Those bearing in the head come greased and are tapered rollers. In truth, it probably would last the life of the bearing. Greased once at the first call out is surely enough. It takes a ton to fill the whole cavity then. It sits on top of the lower one which is actually to only one with any load.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 16, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
