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How do I tell a real rigid frame from a good fake?

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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Everything Panz has said is the answer. Palmer's book will explain the casting marks/numbers. That is the best you can do to prove to yourself it is real. Lots of weird sh*t happened over the years to those frames. A good one is going to cost well over $5k and might be closer to $8k, a real good one. I would also suggest getting involved with AMCA and maybe go to a local show. The prices there will be better then the Bay, but you still need to be educated. Unfortunately there our bad people everywhere. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Architect
Lots of weird sh*t happened over the years to those frames.
Example: Building a chopper. Extended front end. Probably springer.
Does not matter, the frame needs to be modified. At the neck. Heat it.
Cut it. Put in a wedge. Now the bike will be level, Of course it may not
go straight. Ever again.

Later maybe someone wants to restore the dresser. Need to re-modify
the frame. It gets ugly.

I shudder to think about all the dastardly deeds done to frames.
Makes me wonder what we were smoking.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kickstartfan
You are overthinking this. Your opinion is the only one that should matter.


Back in the day, dressers were routinely chopped. All tabs were removed
from the frame, then some were put back on. Turns out they had a use
after all.


Again, ask yourself why it matters. If you are happy stop there.
I like your idea of finding a complete original bike. Bring money.
I want OEM and I know why, believe me. My business is cars and getting the restoration details right, right down to hose clamp orientation, valve stem caps, factory sloppiness and mistakes. I stop at putting the period-correct air in the tires however.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 12:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by hellonewman
I want OEM and I know why, believe me. My business is cars and getting the restoration details right, right down to hose clamp orientation, valve stem caps, factory sloppiness and mistakes. I stop at putting the period-correct air in the tires however.
I gotta guy for period correct air, PM me if you want his contact info
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 12:51 PM
  #25  
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Your interest is in resale value. That was not so hard.
Now I am overthinking this. Right on and ride on.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kickstartfan
Your interest is in resale value. That was not so hard.
Now I am overthinking this. Right on and ride on.
No because my kids will get whatever cars and bikes I have when I croak. No plans to sell.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Architect
I gotta guy for period correct air, PM me if you want his contact info
It has to smell like old air or no deal!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 04:24 PM
  #28  
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Early rigids have no frame number, so the only way to tell is obvious signs like sidecar mounts, welds in the frame down tubes from cracks or breaks, horn mounts.
A good book to find is "How to restore your Harley-Davidson" was out of print for a while- goes into great detail on identifying genuine components from the frame up.
https://www.ebay.com/i/182697391936?chn=ps
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 04:41 PM
  #29  
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Ordered the book right from Mrs Palmer on ebay, $110 for the pair.
 

Last edited by hellonewman; Jan 27, 2018 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 09:14 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by hellonewman
Ordered the book right from Mrs Palmer on ebay, $110 for the pair.
It was a great resource on my 53 Pan- and also for restoration of my '42 WLA earlier.
 
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