Trailering Motorcycle Advice
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,243
Likes: 3,267
From: west Michigan
You need to check on the bike every time you stop.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
OK if it makes you feel better....but Murphy's law says if the bike falls..it will fall the other way.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 2,410
From: Jackson, OH
A subject often needlessly made more complicated than necessary.
You should have 4 points on the floor to attach 4 ratchet straps. Those points can be D rings or E track. E track is relatively inexpensive and easy to install, plus it gives a better variety of tie points and angles. In my 6x12 I installed E track on the outside edges of the floor along the walls.
You should have a front wheel chock. There are many that work; some better than others. With a $34,000 bike inside a $7,000 trailer I'm only interested in what's strong, reliable and built to perform. Mine is a Condor chock, and I installed the quick-attach trailer bracket so I can use it in places other than the trailer if desired.
Bike should have at least 60% of its weight forward of the axles. Pull it in and mark the front tire location. Install the chock. Bike goes in the chock of course. I use 4 Soft Tie loops to go around the (2) saddlebag guards and (2) fork sides just above the fender mount bosses. Attach ratchet straps to Soft Ties in front and angle the straps forward to the floor anchors. Crank them snug but not banjo-tight. Rear straps next with only a slight angle to the rear of the saddlebag guards. Crank snug. You're set.
There are 12v cameras available which you can mount in your trailer and wirelessly view your bike while driving. As far as ratchet straps, I bought mine from Condor. Those people are making a great product line and they don't cut corners.
You should ALWAYS check your straps and bike when stopping for fuel, food etc. Catch a problem before it becomes one. Don't forget to put your bike in transport mode to prevent battery drain.
You should have 4 points on the floor to attach 4 ratchet straps. Those points can be D rings or E track. E track is relatively inexpensive and easy to install, plus it gives a better variety of tie points and angles. In my 6x12 I installed E track on the outside edges of the floor along the walls.
You should have a front wheel chock. There are many that work; some better than others. With a $34,000 bike inside a $7,000 trailer I'm only interested in what's strong, reliable and built to perform. Mine is a Condor chock, and I installed the quick-attach trailer bracket so I can use it in places other than the trailer if desired.
Bike should have at least 60% of its weight forward of the axles. Pull it in and mark the front tire location. Install the chock. Bike goes in the chock of course. I use 4 Soft Tie loops to go around the (2) saddlebag guards and (2) fork sides just above the fender mount bosses. Attach ratchet straps to Soft Ties in front and angle the straps forward to the floor anchors. Crank them snug but not banjo-tight. Rear straps next with only a slight angle to the rear of the saddlebag guards. Crank snug. You're set.
There are 12v cameras available which you can mount in your trailer and wirelessly view your bike while driving. As far as ratchet straps, I bought mine from Condor. Those people are making a great product line and they don't cut corners.
You should ALWAYS check your straps and bike when stopping for fuel, food etc. Catch a problem before it becomes one. Don't forget to put your bike in transport mode to prevent battery drain.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
yes, very important! and not all that hard to do. don't mess with keeping your fob in the saddlebag, etc.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 2,410
From: Jackson, OH
I forgot to add: You should loosen the ratchet straps when you stop for the night. Let everything relax. Just be sure you're parked generally level, and don't remove the straps. Snug them up in the morning before departing.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 902
Likes: 227
From: Mississippi
Further emphasis on the ratchet straps. The Ankra-type friction (dirt bike) straps aren't made to hold touring bikes. I use a Harbor Freight chock for a drop-off run to the dealership, but if I were traveling much, I would spring for a Condor.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 691
Likes: 151
From: Houston
why, because its bad for the forks to be compressed for long periods of time?
Like others have said Wheel chock the front wheel and 4 GOOD straps. And if equipped... don't forget to turn the security system into transport mode!
Since you're going to be trailering it a lot id recommend the tie down brackets that mount on your front forks as a nice solid tie down point that won't damage other parts as you strap up repeatedly. I believe a single strap should be rated for the entire weight of your bike, get the 1000lb Or bigger straps. not those cheepie 4-500lb shoe laces with tin can buckles. I've somewhat recently picked up the orange 1000lb Smart straps that have the very thick 1in wide webbing and much thicker hooks and been vey happy with them for when I had to move and haul my tool boxes, a trailer on a trailer, and more.
Also.. don't pull all the "tail" out of the spool while trying to pull the strap tight before actually starting to ratchet the strap tight, leave it just a little loose. The webbing needs at least an entire wrap around the ratchet mechanism spool or as you start down the first few bumps that make the bike pull on the strap will loosen up the strap a little, because the webbing won't have enough friction to hold tight as it's pulled on under tension.
Since you're going to be trailering it a lot id recommend the tie down brackets that mount on your front forks as a nice solid tie down point that won't damage other parts as you strap up repeatedly. I believe a single strap should be rated for the entire weight of your bike, get the 1000lb Or bigger straps. not those cheepie 4-500lb shoe laces with tin can buckles. I've somewhat recently picked up the orange 1000lb Smart straps that have the very thick 1in wide webbing and much thicker hooks and been vey happy with them for when I had to move and haul my tool boxes, a trailer on a trailer, and more.
Also.. don't pull all the "tail" out of the spool while trying to pull the strap tight before actually starting to ratchet the strap tight, leave it just a little loose. The webbing needs at least an entire wrap around the ratchet mechanism spool or as you start down the first few bumps that make the bike pull on the strap will loosen up the strap a little, because the webbing won't have enough friction to hold tight as it's pulled on under tension.
