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I forgot to add: You should loosen the ratchet straps when you stop for the night. Let everything relax. Just be sure you're parked generally level, and don't remove the straps. Snug them up in the morning before departing.
I have a bike I have been hauling to bike rally's in various trailers and toy haulers for over 20 years...I never done this and have no adverse effects...what do you think is the advantage.
I would make sure you get straps that have an S type hook and not those that look more like a J. You want the full hook and not ones that are more open. I always put a couple wraps of electrical tape across the opening after tightening the ratchets so they could not unhook in a bounce. Better yet get the straps with the hook retainers. Ask me how I know!
I don’t necesarrily think you MUST relax ratchet straps at night, or that leaving them cranked tight causes problems...provable anyway. If your straps are compressing any part of the suspension it only makes sense that releasing the tension allows the suspension to return to a normal resting state. I’ve also known straps to gradually stretch and lose a bit of tension if cranked tight and left that way. I suppose this is just a matter of personal preference. I always release the ratchet and put a bit of slack in things at night. Check and re-snug them before departing in the morning. No hassle and I like doing it. Others may not and that perfectly okay with me.
Like an oil thread, everyone is gonna be religious about their preference. Friends and I have been hauling our bikes out of northern Canada on frost heaved crap roads for years. Our preferred method is Wheel Docks with endless ratchet straps thru lower forks (fender lugs). Period. That’s similar to how new Gold Wings are shipped; where we got the idea and the endless ratchet straps. No suspension load; no spider web of straps, no hooks. Main problem is Wheel Docks seem to be too expensive for many people; but we’re hauling expensive bikes
I agree with the exception of the jiffy stand. I always leave the jiffy stand extended with the bike upright and facing forward. The stand doesn't touch the ground by about an inch...somehow it just makes me feel better knowing it's down.
it will make you feel even more better if you paint the jiffy stand orange! (Cross thread points!)
A subject often needlessly made more complicated than necessary.
You should have 4 points on the floor to attach 4 ratchet straps. Those points can be D rings or E track. E track is relatively inexpensive and easy to install, plus it gives a better variety of tie points and angles. In my 6x12 I installed E track on the outside edges of the floor along the walls.
You should have a front wheel chock. There are many that work; some better than others. With a $34,000 bike inside a $7,000 trailer I'm only interested in what's strong, reliable and built to perform. Mine is a Condor chock, and I installed the quick-attach trailer bracket so I can use it in places other than the trailer if desired.
Bike should have at least 60% of its weight forward of the axles. Pull it in and mark the front tire location. Install the chock. Bike goes in the chock of course. I use 4 Soft Tie loops to go around the (2) saddlebag guards and (2) fork sides just above the fender mount bosses. Attach ratchet straps to Soft Ties in front and angle the straps forward to the floor anchors. Crank them snug but not banjo-tight. Rear straps next with only a slight angle to the rear of the saddlebag guards. Crank snug. You're set.
There are 12v cameras available which you can mount in your trailer and wirelessly view your bike while driving. As far as ratchet straps, I bought mine from Condor. Those people are making a great product line and they don't cut corners.
You should ALWAYS check your straps and bike when stopping for fuel, food etc. Catch a problem before it becomes one. Don't forget to put your bike in transport mode to prevent battery drain.
Good suggestion on the wireless camera, didn't thing about that.
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