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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 07:17 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by dgwv
Everyone knows that operating RPM range has several factors involved like cam grind, exhaust type, tune, weight of the rider, compression, etc, so no one set of numbers is going to fit all bikes. My bike seem to pull pretty good at 2k. But that changes when 2-up and it also changes with different weather. In cool weather it pulls way better than on a hot day I think.

I agree with the shift numbers printed in the owners manual and I use them. I think they make my Harley sound right.
I agree with your cool weather assessment, but bike loves the cooler air.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 05:46 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 99Birdman
I realize it's a slightly different animal but, as a v-twin, it's worth noting. My S&S motor has specific instructions regarding the preferred rpm range which is 2750-3250rpm. Sustained running below that range is not recommended. I would expect HD to be slightly different but, sustained running at 2000rpm is very low.
Help me with that one, Sarge

Is that due to compression ratio and cams on the S&S?

Thanks


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No tach on my TC88 thats stock 'cept for SE slip-ons .
I go by sound and "feel" .
Same for the dozen manual trans vehicles/trucks I've owned

you can "feel" it when it's lugging and you drop a gear
But are some saying it "hurts" the Big Twin putting around and/or shift points in the 2000-2500rpm range when easy on the throttle??


Honest question.....wouldn't every time we pull away from a light be "hurtful" lugging ????
(presuming most aren't wound up past 2000-2500 when letting out the clutch)

..L.T.A.

 
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 02:00 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Cap77
Help me with that one, Sarge

Is that due to compression ratio and cams on the S&S?

Thanks


.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .......



No tach on my TC88 thats stock 'cept for SE slip-ons .
I go by sound and "feel" .
Same for the dozen manual trans vehicles/trucks I've owned

you can "feel" it when it's lugging and you drop a gear
But are some saying it "hurts" the Big Twin putting around and/or shift points in the 2000-2500rpm range when easy on the throttle??


Honest question.....wouldn't every time we pull away from a light be "hurtful" lugging ????
(presuming most aren't wound up past 2000-2500 when letting out the clutch)

..L.T.A.
Pulling away in lower gears is a different animal than cruising at 2000 then applying throttle (due to torque multiplication through the transmission). Again, they advised not to run a sustained time at the lower rpm range which isn't what you are doing when you're upshifting through the gears. Even my old '95 TC I replaced accelerated and cruised much smoother at 2700+ than at 2000-2200.

As far as why, I just know it is specifically called out in the owners information. Mine is a lower compression (9.5/1) 111 for touring with 585 cams. It has to do with the design of the v-twin engine and stresses put on the crank at sustained lower rpms.

The S&S motor is known to be a slightly higher revving motor but, the design is still the same as the TC.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 02:54 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 99Birdman
I realize it's a slightly different animal but, as a v-twin, it's worth noting. My S&S motor has specific instructions regarding the preferred rpm range which is 2750-3250rpm. Sustained running below that range is not recommended. I would expect HD to be slightly different but, sustained running at 2000rpm is very low.

Those numbers are spot on in my opinion, at least for hi-way speeds. Putting thru traffic in 3rd gear is less of an issue as the transmission provides a lot of mechanical advantage in the first few gears, 5th and 6th gear not so much.

.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 08:58 PM
  #65  
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If you can’t feel or don’t know when you are placing too much load for the gear, then nobody’s gonna splain it to ya.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 09:51 PM
  #66  
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Even a Briggs and Stratton engine likes 3600 RPM. At least that's where the governor is set from the factory.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 09:08 AM
  #67  
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Old thread I know but I'm amazed at how many people here lug these twin cams. 2000rpm? Seriously? 2200, 2400 is still too damn low. It sure explains the premature engine wear and pics of horrifyingly carboned up tear downs at less than 30,000 miles I see here tho. Lifters needing replacement at 25,000 miles. Cams that look like holy hell. It's no wonder.
So keep on camming for your 1800rpm roll ons. You're only killing your motor. I could care less how much torque my motor has down there. 2600 is the absolute minimum cruise rpm. More like 2800-3000. These motors are happy in the 3000-4000rpm range and I see posts saying they would never thrash their motor by doing 4000rpm.
Crank them up to 5000rpm once in awhile. Your motor will luv you!
Of course buy a damn tuner first and run a sane AFR because 14.anything too lean. 14.6 is insane. Just say NO to the EPA. They could care less about your motor.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Jun 28, 2020 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 09:30 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Old thread I know but I'm amazed at how many people here lug these twin cams. 2000rpm? Seriously? 2200, 2400 is still too damn low. It sure explains the premature engine wear and pics of horrifyingly carboned up tear downs at less than 30,000 miles I see here tho. Lifters needing replacement at 25,000 miles. Cams that look like holy hell. It's no wonder.
So keep on camming for your 1800rpm roll ons. You're only killing your motor. I could care less how much torque my motor has down there. 2600 is the absolute minimum cruise rpm. More like 2800-3000. These motors are happy in the 3000-4000rpm range and I see posts saying they would never thrash their motor by doing 4000rpm.
Crank them up to 5000rpm once in awhile. Your motor will luv you!
Of course buy a damn tuner first and run a sane AFR because 14.anything too lean. 14.6 is insane. Just say NO to the EPA. They could care less about your motor.

Yeah older thread but I appreciate your post. I’m one of those guys that seems to live in the 2500 to 3000 rpm range. I just installed a stage III kit at 29k miles and was really surprised at all the carbon on the pistons. I posted some pictures and many said it was common but it did concern me. I’m twisting the throttle a little more now!
 
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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 09:56 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 67Shuv
I've shifted mine at 2K, 2500, 3K, 4K and never seen a single spec of fuel mileage change in any of them. Logic and my mechanical background tells me that the fewer times a metal part goes past another metal part, the less it's gonna wear. I don't mind cruising at 2K if I'm on flat ground with no real load, 80mph is 3K on the dot with my tire size. If I'm trying to merge etc, I'll run it up a little higher but otherwise I shift between 2500-3000 and the RPM and the revs fall back to about 2K. As long as you don't try to pin the throttle when the revs are down I don't think you're going to harm a thing. Easy throttle pressure and let the engine do it's job. It's easier on everything, including the clutch.
II have to wholeheartedly agree with this guy. My mechanical background tells me the same. The RPM he described are about the same RPMs I shift my trike. As stated by others in previous posts, your motor will tell you when it's lugging.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2020 | 10:44 AM
  #70  
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almost 54k on the clock on my bike, the majority of the miles between 2 to 2.7k rpm. when you twist the throttle if the bike wants to go you are ok, if it struggles then you need to drop a gear.
 
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