2004 FLHT Running Bad
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Stage I
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: MS
2004 FLHT Running Bad
Hi All, I just joined. Rarely do I engage like this but I am today. I really need some direction and not to the Harley shop-lol.
1) Dyno-jetted the carb years ago. It ran well for a long time there after.
2) Awhile back (last year) it started to have idling problems, Crank-up, go to 2000-2500 RPMs, go back down, idle around 900. Blip the throttle and it will hang-up high for awhile before dropping back down to idle and eventually stall-out.
Here's the set-up:
180 MJ, Dyno-Jet E-Tube & needle.
Python Slip-Ons
K&N Filter
What have I done so far:
Pulled and cleaned the Carb,
Reset the e-clip on the needle to the 4th position where it should have been from the beginning, I guess I messed-up initially.
Dyno-Jet says mixture screw should be at about 3-1/2, went to two turns from seated and it still is erratic.
Strangely enough, the exhaust muffler (left) from the back cylinder is cold, but the cylinder itself is hot.......Changed plugs also. still cold exhaust.
I think I have a multitude of problems; don't where to begin isolating them.
Any solid advice is welcome. Sorry for ranting my first-time on here, I'm just in a corner here.
Thanks,
John
1) Dyno-jetted the carb years ago. It ran well for a long time there after.
2) Awhile back (last year) it started to have idling problems, Crank-up, go to 2000-2500 RPMs, go back down, idle around 900. Blip the throttle and it will hang-up high for awhile before dropping back down to idle and eventually stall-out.
Here's the set-up:
180 MJ, Dyno-Jet E-Tube & needle.
Python Slip-Ons
K&N Filter
What have I done so far:
Pulled and cleaned the Carb,
Reset the e-clip on the needle to the 4th position where it should have been from the beginning, I guess I messed-up initially.
Dyno-Jet says mixture screw should be at about 3-1/2, went to two turns from seated and it still is erratic.
Strangely enough, the exhaust muffler (left) from the back cylinder is cold, but the cylinder itself is hot.......Changed plugs also. still cold exhaust.
I think I have a multitude of problems; don't where to begin isolating them.
Any solid advice is welcome. Sorry for ranting my first-time on here, I'm just in a corner here.
Thanks,
John
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,014
Likes: 739
From: Northern California
To start if your rear cylinder is cold have you checked to see if you are getting spark to the rear plug? In the service manual, there is a procedure to check the ignition coil. You can pull the plug and ground it to the cylinder and crank the motor to see if there is spark?
Also, check for DTC Codes:
To pull the ECM codes on your bike:
1) Make sure the kill switch on the handlebar is in the "RUN" position.
2) Turn the ignition switch to the ignition position for 4 seconds, then turn it off for 3 seconds, then on for 4 seconds, then off for 3. then turn it on, and in 8 seconds your check engine light will start flashing.
3) There will be a series of rapid flashes (3 per second) then a 2 second pause, then the lamp will flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code. count the number of flashes (one sec. each, one sec. apart) to get the first digit. then there will be a 2 second pause, then the second digit will flash out in the same way as the first.
if there is more than one code, they are seperated by an "intermisson" of rapid flashes.
Keep writing down the code flashes, until it repeats the same one. Once it does, you have retreived all codes.
The codes are:
11 = Trottle position sensor
12 = Barometric pressure sensor
14 = Engine temperature sensor
15 = intake air temp. sensor
16 = battery positive voltage
23 = front injector
24 = front ign. coil
25 = rear ign. coil
32 = rear injector
33 = fuel pump relay
35 = Tachometer (doesn 't apply on FLHR/C-I)
41 = Crankshaft position sensor
42 = camshaft position sensor
44 = bank angle sensor
52, 53, 54, and 55 = ECM problems requiring new ECM
56 = Crank position sensor/Cam position sensor signal error
Also, check for DTC Codes:
To pull the ECM codes on your bike:
1) Make sure the kill switch on the handlebar is in the "RUN" position.
2) Turn the ignition switch to the ignition position for 4 seconds, then turn it off for 3 seconds, then on for 4 seconds, then off for 3. then turn it on, and in 8 seconds your check engine light will start flashing.
3) There will be a series of rapid flashes (3 per second) then a 2 second pause, then the lamp will flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code. count the number of flashes (one sec. each, one sec. apart) to get the first digit. then there will be a 2 second pause, then the second digit will flash out in the same way as the first.
if there is more than one code, they are seperated by an "intermisson" of rapid flashes.
Keep writing down the code flashes, until it repeats the same one. Once it does, you have retreived all codes.
The codes are:
11 = Trottle position sensor
12 = Barometric pressure sensor
14 = Engine temperature sensor
15 = intake air temp. sensor
16 = battery positive voltage
23 = front injector
24 = front ign. coil
25 = rear ign. coil
32 = rear injector
33 = fuel pump relay
35 = Tachometer (doesn 't apply on FLHR/C-I)
41 = Crankshaft position sensor
42 = camshaft position sensor
44 = bank angle sensor
52, 53, 54, and 55 = ECM problems requiring new ECM
56 = Crank position sensor/Cam position sensor signal error
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