Kill switch question
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
RE: Kill switch question
Thanks Dog, that's what I thought. So.... in conclusion:
The tech was partially right about the switch. you don't need both, but probably wrong about it breaking.
(Skip edit)
The tech was partially right about the switch. you don't need both, but probably wrong about it breaking.
(Skip edit)
Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 266
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From:
RE: Kill switch question
Well, here is my dumb guess: HD kept the handle bar kill switch for the old-timers who just seemed to like it. The tank switch is for the x,y gens. As far as being more 'robust', that is an explanation that sounds real good, but, in fact, is not so -at least from an electrical point of view. But, if by 'robust' you mean bigger, as if for bigger hands, well, then maybe. Anyway, that kill switch should never go bad, and if it does, it is really a simple matter to fix it yourself without any mechanic. Actually, I have heard more troubles with the tank switch than any kill switch. In fact, I could almost swear that HD once had a major recall on those tank switches. Ok, that is my dumb guess.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 121
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From:
RE: Kill switch question
I always leave the kill switch on my boat on. I always turn the kill switch on my motorcycle on and off. Their purposes are similar. I don't know why I do it that way. Habit, I guess... Will it wear out? It shouldn't. Switches are life-tested extensively before being introduced into production by OEM's.
I believe MSF courses teach a FINE-C acronym of checklist items to do before starting your motorcycle engine.
F= Fuel (Turn it on. This doesn't apply to fuel injected engines.)
I = Ignition Switch (Turn it on.)
N= Neutral (Take it out of gear.)
E= Engine Cut off switch or kill switch (Turn it on.)
C= Clutch (Disengage)
I believe MSF courses teach a FINE-C acronym of checklist items to do before starting your motorcycle engine.
F= Fuel (Turn it on. This doesn't apply to fuel injected engines.)
I = Ignition Switch (Turn it on.)
N= Neutral (Take it out of gear.)
E= Engine Cut off switch or kill switch (Turn it on.)
C= Clutch (Disengage)
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 121
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From:
RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: YUCK
those switches are useless.....never had one never want one....it would be like having two light switches for your porch......
those switches are useless.....never had one never want one....it would be like having two light switches for your porch......
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,473
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: Kill switch question
OK, floydpink, that's enough of the name-callin'. Strike one. Chill out and keep it civil, or take your kiester elsewhere. ShredHD's first reply was a little bit of humor. Wasn't any need to take it for anything else, or reply as you did.
Back to the question: I can't say for your specific bike, but on most new bikes you're s'posed to kill the engine with the kill switch, then turn the key switch off. To quote from one manual I have handy - The engine off/run switch should be used to shut the engine off.
To turn the ignition power completely off, use the key switch. I can think of at least one reason for this sequence; thekill switch is designed to break the current flow with minimal damage to the contacts, while the key switch design doesn't protect the contacts from the arcing as it breaks.
Over many years and many miles on many bikes, I've never had a kill switch crap out, but have replaced plenty of HD key switches.
Back to the question: I can't say for your specific bike, but on most new bikes you're s'posed to kill the engine with the kill switch, then turn the key switch off. To quote from one manual I have handy - The engine off/run switch should be used to shut the engine off.
To turn the ignition power completely off, use the key switch. I can think of at least one reason for this sequence; thekill switch is designed to break the current flow with minimal damage to the contacts, while the key switch design doesn't protect the contacts from the arcing as it breaks.
Over many years and many miles on many bikes, I've never had a kill switch crap out, but have replaced plenty of HD key switches.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,814
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Kill switch question
Pococj,,,,question,,,,could this procedure have something to do wit the on board computer crap???? I would think the lights would arc harder than the ignition....help now I'm all confuzed...
ORIGINAL: pococj
OK, floydpink, that's enough of the name-callin'. Strike one. Chill out and keep it civil, or take your kiester elsewhere. ShredHD's first reply was a little bit of humor. Wasn't any need to take it for anything else, or reply as you did.
Back to the question: I can't say for your specific bike, but on most new bikes you're s'posed to kill the engine with the kill switch, then turn the key switch off. To quote from one manual I have handy - The engine off/run switch should be used to shut the engine off.
To turn the ignition power completely off, use the key switch. I can think of at least one reason for this sequence; thekill switch is designed to break the current flow with minimal damage to the contacts, while the key switch design doesn't protect the contacts from the arcing as it breaks.
Over many years and many miles on many bikes, I've never had a kill switch crap out, but have replaced plenty of HD key switches.
OK, floydpink, that's enough of the name-callin'. Strike one. Chill out and keep it civil, or take your kiester elsewhere. ShredHD's first reply was a little bit of humor. Wasn't any need to take it for anything else, or reply as you did.
Back to the question: I can't say for your specific bike, but on most new bikes you're s'posed to kill the engine with the kill switch, then turn the key switch off. To quote from one manual I have handy - The engine off/run switch should be used to shut the engine off.
To turn the ignition power completely off, use the key switch. I can think of at least one reason for this sequence; thekill switch is designed to break the current flow with minimal damage to the contacts, while the key switch design doesn't protect the contacts from the arcing as it breaks.
Over many years and many miles on many bikes, I've never had a kill switch crap out, but have replaced plenty of HD key switches.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,823
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From: THE MARITIMES Canada
RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: floydpink
I feel a little dumb asking this but since a mechanic said it, I am somewhat curious;
While having some electrical work done, I was chatting with the service guy who was saying to never shut off the kill switch on the handlebars as this is the first component to break normally. He said to keep it always on and only shut off on the tank switch. I am not sure if I believe him and also have a warranty to cover it in the event he is correct.
I feel a little dumb asking this but since a mechanic said it, I am somewhat curious;
While having some electrical work done, I was chatting with the service guy who was saying to never shut off the kill switch on the handlebars as this is the first component to break normally. He said to keep it always on and only shut off on the tank switch. I am not sure if I believe him and also have a warranty to cover it in the event he is correct.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,814
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Kill switch question
Sam,,,,not that I have a kill switch,,,I'm just curryass,,,and killing time....Y
ORIGINAL: Sam
Well I've been selling Harley's for over 20 years and the only only adviceI can give you, is.........find a new mechanic
ORIGINAL: floydpink
I feel a little dumb asking this but since a mechanic said it, I am somewhat curious;
While having some electrical work done, I was chatting with the service guy who was saying to never shut off the kill switch on the handlebars as this is the first component to break normally. He said to keep it always on and only shut off on the tank switch. I am not sure if I believe him and also have a warranty to cover it in the event he is correct.
I feel a little dumb asking this but since a mechanic said it, I am somewhat curious;
While having some electrical work done, I was chatting with the service guy who was saying to never shut off the kill switch on the handlebars as this is the first component to break normally. He said to keep it always on and only shut off on the tank switch. I am not sure if I believe him and also have a warranty to cover it in the event he is correct.