Vance Hines softail installation

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Nov 26, 2018 | 09:11 PM

#11

Krugermeier

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From: South Carolina

I got the pipe on. Can’t feel any air coming out of the heads so I don’t think I have a leak. But I am smelling a funny mix of burning gas/paper? I saw tiny white smoke coming from where the pipe mounts to the frame, I’m thinking it’s either leftover paper/plastic I wrapped the pipes in for storage, or NeverDull I cleaned the chrome with before I started the bike. Bike hasn’t started in 3 weeks before this

https://i.imgur.com/BqEabfnr.jpg

this is my rear head. If you look closely, you can still see the exhaust gasket. Is that normal? All bolts are torqued to spec

Last edited by Krugermeier; Nov 26, 2018 at 09:30 PM.

Nov 27, 2018 | 07:01 AM

#12

Bluesrider.df

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From: PA

It looks ok to me. Put some dish liquid in some water and squirt some around the flanges at the heads. Put a Shop Vac hose in the exhaust, connect to the vac to blow, and turn it on. If you see bubbles at the flanges, you have a leak. Otherwise you're good.

Last edited by Bluesrider.df; Nov 27, 2018 at 10:55 AM.

Nov 27, 2018 | 07:56 AM

#13

m1369x

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From: Arm pit of America, S.D.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluesrider.df

It looks ok to me. Put some dish liquid in some water and squirt some around the flanges at the heads. Put a Shop Vac hose in the exhaust, connect to the vac to blow, and urn it on. If you see bubbles at the flanges, you have a leak. Otherwise you're good.

Thanks I'll remember that one

Nov 27, 2018 | 02:51 PM

#14

Krugermeier

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From: South Carolina

Should I put blue loc tite on my header bolts? I’m using lock washers with lock bolts already

Nov 27, 2018 | 03:04 PM

#15

Bluesrider.df

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From: PA

No on the thread lock. Blue might not withstand the heat anyway.

I had an issue with my nuts working loose even though I torqued them several times. Someone online gave me a good suggestion - install a second nut on each stud to act as a lock nut. Or if you want to be fancy, you could use chrome acorn nuts. I went with the acorns. Torque the first set of nuts, and then snug the second set up to the first and everything should stay tight and stay put.

Nov 27, 2018 | 03:20 PM

#16

Krugermeier

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From: South Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by slodsm

I had those on my FX, they're tight but not impossible. Put the first one in place up front, then you're going to have to pull backwards while pushing in on the rear one. It will spread enough to get it in place, then just even em up and tighten em up. It's not terribly difficult, just probably worried about hurting the pipes pulling on them like that. Trust me, you won't. They're tough.

Thanks, your post allowed me to figure out how to install the pipes!

Nov 28, 2018 | 07:25 PM

#17

Krugermeier

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From: South Carolina

I'm torquing the flange bolts to 110 in/lbs. I take the bike around the neighborhood briefly, and each time the front flange nuts need about a 1/2 to full turn to be torqued to spec again. I want to do the double nut idea, but it doesn't look like I have enough purchase room on the bolts for the nut to grab, as pictured below. Should I torque beyond 110 in-lbs? Manual calls for 100-120 in-lbs. Thoughts?

Nov 28, 2018 | 07:50 PM

#18

Bluesrider.df

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From: PA

If it calls for 100-120, you can definitely go 120. It's only going to be a small bit more of a turn of the nut. I'm not sure why these nuts work loose. Or is it that the gaskets are compressing more? A mystery to me.