Rust!
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 505
From: Illinois
naval jelly and then use a paint with rust inhibitor. Always make sure that you paint, even if it is with clear paint, any bare metal. This is the reason why many of us do not ride once the streets have been salted.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 128
Likes: 4
From: Massachusetts
Any suggestions on painting the fender? Something I can do at home
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,233
Likes: 4,943
From: England
WD 40 is not a long term solution to rust. GT 85 or ACF 50 are proper rust inhibitors. Even using a household oil or a little engine oil would be far better.
HD do a plastic plug that goes in the bolt holes where mid mounts would be fitted when the bike comes with forward controls.
HD do a plastic plug that goes in the bolt holes where mid mounts would be fitted when the bike comes with forward controls.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 505
From: Illinois
...about the fender. It depends on how fastidious you are about your bike looking its best. At the very least you will have to sand the rust away and taper the existing paint to where there is no rust underneath. You will then need to use a rust inhibitor sealer. You will then need to use a primer, top coat and clear on top of that.
What you have going for you is the color of your bike. Black paint is easier to color match than other custom colors, specially the denim paints. With some elbow grease and patience you can get it done satisfactorily.
What you have going for you is the color of your bike. Black paint is easier to color match than other custom colors, specially the denim paints. With some elbow grease and patience you can get it done satisfactorily.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
OP ... With all respect due ... It appears as though you should have been caring long before now.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 809
From: Ormond Beach, Florida
WD-40 is good but won't last. Will dry up or wash of quickly.
There is a product called "Navel Jelly" , available at any hardware store, that is a rust remover and, from my experience, works fairly well to remove rust on metal that is not deeply rusted. I think it should work on your rust as shown in the pic's.)
After cleaning the rust off, all bare metal needs to be coated in some form. Automotive paint works well where suitable. I use both a spray can if possible, or a small bottle of touch-up paint that has a brush in the bottle.
In threaded areas, like in your pic, it might be best to lightly coat the threads with something like axel grease , or white silicone grease, and then install a bolt to keep air and moisture out. (paint the bolt head to hide it if you want).
The WD-40 trick works well for bolt heads and nuts that are not stainless steel as a preventitive measure, but need to be applied after every wash to be effective. In some situations, like exposed fasteners, a coat of wax accomplishes the same thing if applied regularly.
HTH
There is a product called "Navel Jelly" , available at any hardware store, that is a rust remover and, from my experience, works fairly well to remove rust on metal that is not deeply rusted. I think it should work on your rust as shown in the pic's.)
After cleaning the rust off, all bare metal needs to be coated in some form. Automotive paint works well where suitable. I use both a spray can if possible, or a small bottle of touch-up paint that has a brush in the bottle.
In threaded areas, like in your pic, it might be best to lightly coat the threads with something like axel grease , or white silicone grease, and then install a bolt to keep air and moisture out. (paint the bolt head to hide it if you want).
The WD-40 trick works well for bolt heads and nuts that are not stainless steel as a preventitive measure, but need to be applied after every wash to be effective. In some situations, like exposed fasteners, a coat of wax accomplishes the same thing if applied regularly.
HTH
