Front Fork Exchange Advice
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Club Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 500
Likes: 120
From: Houma, Louisiana
Front Fork Exchange Advice
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for me? I am thinking about changing out the Front Fork Lowers to Chrome and was wondering is anything else recommended? Will the original uppers match, should I change the springs, etc. ??? I was just wondering what the general consensus on the board? I been trying to look for photos but haven't had much luck yet! Any pictures are advice would be greatly appreciated. Definitely going with Chrome so Black is not an option! Just wondering if anything else should be changed while tackling this project?
Thanks for any Help!
Christopher
Thanks for any Help!
Christopher
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 28
Likes: 12
From: MI
If you have the money, and you are already in there, might as well upgrade. Depending on year and miles, you can rebuild everything with a kit like this.
Progressive has a few options. Price points range from $500 to $100. I'm sure there are other, more expensive options from different manufactures. Seems like suspension components are like oil. Everyone has a preference. I put the monotube kit and rebuild kit in mine when I powder coated fork lowers. It was an improvement over stock.
I would, at an absolute minimum, put in new seals, bushings and fork oil.
Progressive has a few options. Price points range from $500 to $100. I'm sure there are other, more expensive options from different manufactures. Seems like suspension components are like oil. Everyone has a preference. I put the monotube kit and rebuild kit in mine when I powder coated fork lowers. It was an improvement over stock.
I would, at an absolute minimum, put in new seals, bushings and fork oil.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
make sure that you replace the cowbells with chrome ones while you are at it.
I recommend ***** shiny for chrome. his work is awesome. much better than what you get with hd. and yes, upgrade the suspension while you've got it all apart. if nothing else, at least go with slightly higher viscosity on fork oil.
I recommend ***** shiny for chrome. his work is awesome. much better than what you get with hd. and yes, upgrade the suspension while you've got it all apart. if nothing else, at least go with slightly higher viscosity on fork oil.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 526
Likes: 99
From: Merrimack NH
Ive gotten two sets of lowers from ***** Shiny and both have been perfect. I’d recommend WS hands down.
As as far as suspension, I’ve got Legend Axeo in the Roadglide and Progressive in the Roadking. Both are a major upgrade from stock.
As as far as suspension, I’ve got Legend Axeo in the Roadglide and Progressive in the Roadking. Both are a major upgrade from stock.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 5,066
Likes: 2,373
From: Camp Lejeune, NC
I would go with ***** Shiny for the lowers and definitely rebuild them while you have them apart. Also consider upgrading the suspension components while you have everything apart. I went with Legend Axeo cartridges.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,162
Likes: 1,906
From: Doghouse... mostly
make sure that you replace the cowbells with chrome ones while you are at it.
I recommend ***** shiny for chrome. his work is awesome. much better than what you get with hd. and yes, upgrade the suspension while you've got it all apart. if nothing else, at least go with slightly higher viscosity on fork oil.
I recommend ***** shiny for chrome. his work is awesome. much better than what you get with hd. and yes, upgrade the suspension while you've got it all apart. if nothing else, at least go with slightly higher viscosity on fork oil.
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From:
No mention of actual bike or miles or if you are doing this job yourself.
If doing the job yourself then rate limiting step was the correct tool for bolt at bottom of slider.
On older bikes it was a 6 mm hex/allen and it had to be extra long on a socket.
I agree that you should have new seals, bushings and fork oil.
If the cans are visible then they will not match in color if they are not changed.
Youtube has a few videos.
Also need a way to keep bike balanced with front end off the ground.
When front wheel comes off the balance changes.
Not a difficult job but it does require concentration and patience in order to avoid scratching a fender, fairing or gas tank.
If doing the job yourself then rate limiting step was the correct tool for bolt at bottom of slider.
On older bikes it was a 6 mm hex/allen and it had to be extra long on a socket.
I agree that you should have new seals, bushings and fork oil.
If the cans are visible then they will not match in color if they are not changed.
Youtube has a few videos.
Also need a way to keep bike balanced with front end off the ground.
When front wheel comes off the balance changes.
Not a difficult job but it does require concentration and patience in order to avoid scratching a fender, fairing or gas tank.