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Financing question on new bike/story time

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Old May 1, 2020 | 10:50 AM
  #11  
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You do realize if your credit isn't that great, you probably won't get the best interest rate and you're probably going to need a down payment? They usually require at least 10% down.
 

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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:03 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
You do realize if your credit isn't that great, you probably won't get the best interest rate and you're probably going to need a down payment? They usually require at least 10% down.
Yea prob putting down 7k
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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Never ever finance a toy and put nothing down except your signature.. Never ever ask a salesman the best deal for a cash price. The only thing he hears is cha-ching. They make a lot of money on financing, so just get the best deal below NADA for a new bike . Negotiate to know they must make a profit but since they think you are going to finance, they will cut you the best deal..
Negotiate the first 1000 mile check as free since it's just the mothership covering their butt.
I have always thought destination is not negotiable since it is listed on the Harley site as a fixed value anywhere in lower 48 states to protect the dealers
$0 dealer prep. Just tell them you won’t pay this...they get reimbursed for this from HD
It's best not to modify the bike from the get-go. And be careful if you do. Some dealers will do things not approved and will cover warranty only because they did it. Other won't
Check your DMV for documentation, registration, sales tax , tags ect fee so they don't cheat at the dealership.
In VA, the office charges an extra Doc fee and it's posted. They say it's not negotiable but why fret what they say is not. Just negotiate the bike price.
An extended warranty is negotiable and just insurance. If you cain't do your own work, maybe worthwhile. It depends on you. Someone said they made out on a radio and voltage regulator that paid for their 1000 extended warranty. That would have cost me a few hundred for regulator. Their $1600 radio would stay broke. So go figure.

If you accept their offer, bring them a check. Good luck. You are dealing with pros. You are going to need it. I just walked away twice after trying to buy a new Harleys. The outfit in my area at the time wanted 5K plus above NADA.



 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:10 AM
  #14  
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some additional thoughts

have you been through a rider's safety course? Would they be willing to throw that in for free

some negotiate service into the deal....free 1000 mile service, free 5k service, free oil changes

going to 15 different lenders and having each of them check your credit score will nick your credit, having one or two folks pull your credit shouldn't make much of an impact

the expensive toy game has winners and losers, but they all ride toys....the best advice I could give you in regards to negotiating comes from my relationship with women

the one who loves least is the one who is in control, the one who has an advantage in a negotiation like yours is the one who is willing to pull the deal off the table and walk away....make them think it's not that important to you and they'll do things like...

....call you and say "Hey my manager really wants that bike off the lot. We decided to accept your offer."

those words are pretty cool to hear. :P

first bike?
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:13 AM
  #15  
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I see your location is MA, so the good news is that there are a TON of dealers around here. Hit them all up.

Deal in OTD price. I've bought all my bikes from High Octane in Billerica, and if you let them, they'll talk monthly payments and hide the details. Don't let them.

Your credit will take a small hit with the initial run, but multiples won't have any impact within a certain period of time. The expectation is that you're shopping multiple banks for the best deal.

Personally, I wouldn't get to working with financing at all the dealerships you talk with, that's why I prefer OTD pricing so you can compare apples to apples.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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Should have bought it yesterday (end of the month) for maximum "must-make-sales" on their end.

Also, go in late in the day on a Sunday and say you're buying a bike. Then hem and haw until they start shutting off the lights. They'll get antsy and want that sale no matter what.

I got my new 48 this way: dealer closed at 6pm on Sunday and closed on Mondays, so I arrived at 5. Sat on a ton of bikes and settled on a used 48. Told him my OTD price. Wouldn't go for it. Hem and haw. Told him again plus gift cert for merch. (My offer went down!). Didn't go for it. Hem and haw. Walk around. Threw another couple offers out. See them bringing in bikes from sidewalk and closing doors. Told him again my price but wouldn't budge. At some point I threatened to walk and keep looking around. Then they finally said if I got a NEW 48 they could honor all my wishes: no freight, no setup, no custom paint charge (wicked red), no finance charges, no paperwork charges, plus gift cert for merch, plus free delivery, plus the salesman had to buy me a HD sticker for my truck. SOLD. Went to the finance office and put a few grand down. (top tier credit).

By the time I left, it was after 7pm. I was there two hours and made the salesman, sales manager, and finance manager stay an hour after closing. But they made a sale on a Sunday night at the end of the month. They also have way more leeway with new vs used bikes just like at car dealerships. And if you are planning on financing, get new as the rates are much better and so is insurance. If buying used, only pay cash (or negotiate finance deal but pay it off immediately).
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:41 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Temple Brooks's Boyfriend
Negotiate the OTD. The finance office is a profit center and that's where they put the screws to you. I dont like financing a recreational vehicle but I'm in the minority here.Better to get pre approved from a credit union.Oh do buy GAP insurance if it's offered in your state when you finance. Do Not get ESP. Those policies usually run concurrent with the factory two year warranty. Wait till the two years is almost up Good Luck!
bad info. or at least incomplete.

yes, get preapproved before you go into the dealer. the dealer may beat the interest rate, they may not. but you have something to compare to. and don't be afraid of eagle mark (hd) financing. i've financed 4 or 5 bikes through them and have gotten better rates than the credit union. the other 2 bikes, did better through the cu. and don't worry about the ping on your credit report. they know that you will shop financing just like you will shop the bike. so the different pings on your credit rating will count together instead of a bunch of individual pings, within a certain timeframe.

gap insurance is only a good option if you are financing the majority of the bike. if you have a sizable down payment or decent trade in, you won't be upside down and gap will be money wasted. also, check your insurance carrier. some of them offer gap protection at a better price.

yes, the esp policies 'run concurrent' with the factory warranty, but also extend beyond that. but they give you benefits that you can use on day one such as trip interruption, towing reimbursement, tire and wheel, etc. plus, it's generally a couple dollars cheaper to buy it now rather than wait until your factory warranty is almost expired. either way, you are getting the same plan, only you didn't get the benefit of being covered for the first 2 years.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:52 AM
  #18  
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Heres my approach and its mildly different than others

You have negotiable items
a. the bike
b. the accessories and if there's labor to install
c. Extended warranty
d. Clothes, helmets etc
e. Prep

Then you have the non-negotiables
a. frieght
b. Tax
c. Tags and DMV

The non-negotiable are static items - same across.
The negotiables - are well, negotiable - get a line item on each and see where you land

THEN you have the BS - courier, because we have it surcharge etc.... These all go away. By breaking down by line item I always seem to get a better deal.. I do this with my cars... My bike my dealer says this is the price, this is the trade in val and this is the payment. I always had a great experience at Williams HD




 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 12:19 PM
  #19  
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^^^ The only "non-negotiable" is the TAX that the MAN tacks on to the agree-to price of an item. Freight is totally negotiable. I didn't pay any. Tags have nothing to do with the sale of an item. You can buy a bike and park it in your garage forever without tags.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 12:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Bigbadwolf0434
How hard of a hit will my credit take when they run my credit do you know?
From what I know doing a hard credit check only drops your credit score few points and it’s temporary (few months) then it’ll go back up a little as long as you’re not delinquent. Now it may take bigger hit when you finance the bike since you’re adding to your debt. I wouldn’t worry too much about them running the credit.

Like many mentioned I got the exact OTD price over email - bike, tax, title, other fees - all laid out line by line. Never deal with that “four squares” BS. Have the salesman show you itemized costs. If they’re pretty on their OTD maybe negotiate deep discount on gear or other merchandise. Or discount on the 1K service. Good luck!
 
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