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Damn $9.7K for a build. For that much coin, Id lean toward a crate motor. Either an HD with a better cam, or an S&S.
For reference my guy charged $2800. for the cam kit and the build labor. I supplied the SE 131 kit that cost me $3k.
The comp, Trask basket, G3 clutch+ misc. added another $1600. parts and labor.
$7400. motor, trans parts, labor. including dyno and tune.
And it is not HD SE internals, lifters, cylinder studs, push rods, rocker studs, cam gear, head bolts.
Built for high HP.
I think I got a great deal.
Hi I had the same worry about cylinder thickness after reading this forum.
Do not sweat it. I spoke to Fuel moto, Zippers, S&S and asked about this issue.
They ALL endorsed the HD stuff and at least one of those company's actually use the cylinders as their base in some kits.
If you watch Moonshine HD videos there is a build talking about HD SE 131 cylinders and heads and state they are good stuff.
They directly address thickness issues.
I literally called every company and spent time on the phone before moving forward with my build.
I was clear to everyone that I had a SE 131 kit and could they offer me any advice.
Though most HD performance parts get a bad rap, using an SE 131 kit and aftermarket tune/camshaft/header was again totally endorsed.
You can find my details here : SE 131 Kit, Max-Cell cam, Fullsac Header. The Results Are In! WoW - Harley Davidson Forums (hdforums.com)
I'll say 4 things ..
1. ZIPPERS 124 Sleeper kit
2. WIDOW MAKER CUSTOMS install
3. I do not beat my bike.
4. 2 failures under ~20k.
Edited .. I forgot to mention a chunk of the rocker standoff being sheared off. The chunk found in the oil pan. Destroyed one of my heads.
The pics are from the second failure.
Again a 131 is just about the same to install. Looked for that quote. I must have deleted it. Far left number was a 9.
Crate motor was just as much. Neexed mods to fix known issues. Thunderroad Va gave me a quote.
When trying to compare the S&S 131 with a longer stroke and shorter rods you have to remember the longer Stoke, shorter rod puts more side load into the pistons and cylinder walls. The S&S cylinders do not use Steel liners and the HD ones do, so you are trading small differences that I do not believe amount to a hill of $hit when you boil it all down for a street engine. So if your looking for one being better than the other it's just BS in this case as the steel liner is much stronger than the non steel liner but slightly thick S&S cylinder.
That said it all about the proper measurements and assembly of the build and who is doing it, than the differences in the parts themselves. The pictures you posted above were of a build done with S&S cylinders and you can see it did not last long at all. As I recall less than 200 miles before the problems occurred. Would I blame the cylinders for that failure NO but they were junk afterwards non the less.
When trying to compare the S&S 131 with a longer stroke and shorter rods you have to remember the longer Stoke, shorter rod puts more side load into the pistons and cylinder walls. The S&S cylinders do not use Steel liners and the HD ones do, so you are trading small differences that I do not believe amount to a hill of $hit when you boil it all down for a street engine. So if your looking for one being better than the other it's just BS in this case as the steel liner is much stronger than the non steel liner but slightly thick S&S cylinder.
That said it all about the proper measurements and assembly of the build and who is doing it, than the differences in the parts themselves. The pictures you posted above were of a build done with S&S cylinders and you can see it did not last long at all. As I recall less than 200 miles before the problems occurred. Would I blame the cylinders for that failure NO but they were junk afterwards non the less.
Does Zippers use S&S cylinders ??
I dont know for sure. The pics are the cylinders of the Zippers 124 kit. Im not sure where the 200 mile comment is coming from. Failures occurred at under 20k both times.
For reference my guy charged $2800. for the cam kit and the build labor. I supplied the SE 131 kit that cost me $3k.
The comp, Trask basket, G3 clutch+ misc. added another $1600. parts and labor.
$7400. motor, trans parts, labor. including dyno and tune.
And it is not HD SE internals, lifters, cylinder studs, push rods, rocker studs, cam gear, head bolts.
Built for high HP. I think I got a great deal.
On a high level, quality street build.
I probably paid about the same minus the assembly labor but did put parts and labor money into higher compression pistons from (Max Cell) Jim.
I could easily have spent less for the same power but I put money into strong supporting parts and saved money using the stock bottom rotator assembly.
The steel lined SE 131 cylinders and Extreme heads is what drew me to this project.
Use the pointed end of the caliper (if they're in good enough shape) to measure that, the flat across the points is less wide and you'll be closer to the right reading.
Use the pointed end of the caliper (if they're in good enough shape) to measure that, the flat across the points is less wide and you'll be closer to the right reading.
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